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Old 09-12-2016, 06:16 PM   #15
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San Diego , California
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Here's mine

40' deep, 50' wide, 12' ceiling

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Old 09-27-2016, 05:45 AM   #16
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norman , Oklahoma
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I put a sewer clean-out in my garage and I've been pleased that it has not been an issue with stink or spillage when using it to dump the tank. I positioned it so that when the RV is parked it's just a couple of feet ahead of and to the side of the macerator reel. I also put a fresh water supply line in the wall right there so I can fill the tank or use it to flush the black tank.

I put an exhaust fan in the ceiling positioned directly over my black tank vent. It's a good idea to keep ANY attached garage under a slight vacuum so that fumes and off gassing from all the various chemicals in your garage are encouraged not to commute to your living space. With an RV parked inside there I felt this was critical.

I actually have three separate fans in the garage. The 80 CFM Panasonic bath fan runs 24/7 to maintain that slight vacuum (very slight as the garage space is about 12,000 cubic feet; 1,000 square feet, 12 foot ceiling) so that's only one air change every 2.5 hours. I also have a 380 CFM bath fan (again panasonic) mounted in the ceiling right next to the 80 cfm unit. I have not used this much but when I was building the garage I did not know what to expect as far as black tank fumes in a sealed space. We use the Interstate regularly around town and make frequent use of the facilities. I dump at least once a month but it's frequently parked indoors with "stuff" in the tank so I was concerned. Never mind the bio waste, I did not like the idea of the treatment stuff venting into the garage, though since the bus came indoors I have switched to one that does not contain formaldehyde. With the little 80 cfm unit going all the time I've never had an issue though I'm glad I have the bigger unit there just in case. I also have a "shop" fan mounted in the wall of the garage. It's a big commercial style unit with automatic louvers and will practically pop your ear drums if you run it with the doors closed. I put it in so that when I get around to putting in my lift and I'm doing stinky stuff (brake cleaner for example) to one of the cars I can crack a garage door and get good evacuation ... again don't want any of that migrating to the house. Side benefit is I can actually use it as a whole house fan. If we burn something in the kitchen, I open the kitchen window and go turn on the shop fan and leave the door into the house open. Have also used it to just do an air change on the house during a nice spring or fall day. Turn on the fan, open the garage door and go room by room opening windows. It would be bad to do that without a window open though because it puts the house under so much vacuum that you would back draft your exhaust flues (water tank, furnace, chimney). Side note, since every shop fan I've ever seen was a terrible hole in the insulation envelop not to mention that even with the louvers they are far from air tight, I built an insulated "closet" with an exterior door to cover the shop fan opening. To explain that more simply I put the fan inside an insulated, sealed closet. For climate control I also have a 3 ton mini-split in the garage. I heat it to 50 in the winter and cool it to 80 in the summer. Unless I'm working out there, then I make it comfortable. Well insulated and sealed commercial style shop doors are a must. And yes the tracks eat up some ceiling space so 12' is the minimum ... I wish I had done 14'.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:29 AM   #17
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...For climate control I also have a 3 ton mini-split in the garage. ...
Hah - I've got a guy coming over to our house this very morning to give me a bid on a mini-split. Our garage is not tall enough to accommodate our Interstate, and we would have to change our roof line in order to make it so (we would probably never recoup such an investment so that's not presently on the table), BUT, we do so many garage projects that we've decided to take the plunge. The straw that broke these camels' backs was many hours of metalworking this past summer when we fabricated our custom hitch carrier. It was so danged hot with many days approaching 100 degrees and we were out there for so many hours, especially my husband. This absolutely must change.

So yes, if you are custom-building a garage, bite the bullet and pay for the climate control up front. It's easier and cheaper than retrofitting as we are doing now.

This next part may be obvious but let me say it just in case. A lot of these types of improvements are not easily mortgage-able, so you better figure on paying cash for them if you really are planning your dream garage. When my husband and I had our house customized, the builder drew the line at certain improvements and the reason is very simple - it might not appraise if there is too much piled into the initial build, and if it doesn't appraise, a mortgage won't be approved. We were willing to raise our downpayment substantially to mitigate the perceived risk, but they still didn't want to mortgage it beyond a certain point (when we signed the contract on this place, we were eons away from retirement with a child to put through university, so we were not anywhere close to being in a position to go all-cash on the build). Blame the financial crisis of 2008 for the skittishness.

We did negotiate successfully for about 70 modifications on the base plan, and we did get the 800 SF garage we absolutely had to have, but beyond that, the garage was off the table in terms of HVAC and insulation and roof-line modifications. Now I have to go back and insulate it myself as well as adding an air conditioner. Good dead-of-winter projects for homeowners who live on the steamy Texas Gulf coast.
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:46 AM   #18
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Kind of cheated since we downsized from a larger RV. Barn is 40 X 30 X 14 with a 13 foot door.
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:22 AM   #19
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Overland Park , Kansas
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Welcome to the Air Forums.

Nice building.
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:06 AM   #20
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Garage

Does anyone have a set of plans that they would like to share? I've got a 30' X 20 second garage with "standard doors", and I don't think it can be modified to allow my Interstate. So maybe I'll have to tear down and start over.
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Old 12-03-2016, 01:19 PM   #21
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Does anyone have a set of plans that they would like to share? I've got a 30' X 20 second garage with "standard doors", and I don't think it can be modified to allow my Interstate. So maybe I'll have to tear down and start over.

Depends on the interior ceiling height. If there is enough room you might be able to rebuild the door opening for more usable height. Might require a specially engineer header at top of door opening with steel reinforcement.


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Old 12-04-2016, 11:52 AM   #22
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I don't know if this is helpful but ...

My wife and I faced an interesting storage dilemma a year or so ago, and I'm hopeful our solution may be of some help. We purchased a repossessed home knowing that it needed lots of work. It came with a 30' x 30' garage with a 9' door and 10' ceilings. It had been plumbed with water/sewer and had it's own electrical panel, so I have been looking forward to making some of the modifications mentioned in this thread. My first problem was - however - fitting our AS inside.
We contemplated sawing the floor out, changing to swinging barn doors which required no overhead running gear, and eventually we landed on a roll-up door. We had to modify the framing of the door (which was originally even with the rock) and restructure the first truss inside the door to accommodate the roll-up mechanism. Overall, I'm pleased with the results. Before you criticize the wiring or sheetrock work you see in the garage, please know that came from the previous owner. My wife and I have been concentrating our efforts over the last year or so to the living areas of the home. What you see on the outside is not at all what it looked like when we took possession! Regardless, we'll get to the garage at some point.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by NewOldDad View Post
My wife and I faced an interesting storage dilemma a year or so ago, and I'm hopeful our solution may be of some help. We purchased a repossessed home knowing that it needed lots of work. It came with a 30' x 30' garage with a 9' door and 10' ceilings. It had been plumbed with water/sewer and had it's own electrical panel, so I have been looking forward to making some of the modifications mentioned in this thread. My first problem was - however - fitting our AS inside.
We contemplated sawing the floor out, changing to swinging barn doors which required no overhead running gear, and eventually we landed on a roll-up door. We had to modify the framing of the door (which was originally even with the rock) and restructure the first truss inside the door to accommodate the roll-up mechanism. Overall, I'm pleased with the results. Before you criticize the wiring or sheetrock work you see in the garage, please know that came from the previous owner. My wife and I have been concentrating our efforts over the last year or so to the living areas of the home. What you see on the outside is not at all what it looked like when we took possession! Regardless, we'll get to the garage at some point.

Great job! You did exactly what I was thinking. If interior ceiling height is tall enough you can usually find a way to raise the door opening height.


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