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Old 05-13-2018, 07:28 AM   #85
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Bear with me through the first paragraph - I want to put something in context that is important for T1N Interstate owners.

Do you ever get a niggling feeling that there's something you missed that's sort of important, and it needs to break through to your conscious mind so that you can articulate it explicitly and deal with its implications? That niggling is originating with your subconscious, which is incredibly perceptive but which doesn't speak a single word of English. The subconscious mind is a lot closer in its function to the ancient reptilian brain than it is to the prefrontal cortex. As such, the subconscious only speaks Reptile, which the English-speaking (or other verbalized language) prefrontal cortex is not well-equipped to translate, hence the niggling feeling as the two of them persist in failure-to-communicate discord.

Six days after the initiation of a niggling feeling, the source of it finally broke through: the T1N Interstate's characteristic black mask appears as if it might have been applied BEFORE the windshield was installed, not after, as I would have expected on an upfit vehicle. I would have expected that the thing was delivered to Airstream as a stripped-down but functioning Sprinter, and then they proceeded to do their job, including the paint details. But if that had been true, I should have seen some evidence of the original MB paint under the windshield when it was removed. I don't think that was the case. It appeared to be a continuous black mask, the one that was added post-production for style reasons.

That potentially explains why we had water leakage but no rust. During the windshield replacement job, my husband asked me in text whether I was SURE there was no rust? Implied question: how can there be no rust?! That makes no sense. T1N Sprinters are legendary for rusting around the windshield. At least they are, unless someone comes along later and adds another layer of paint in the form of a black mask. That paint still wasn't the correct formulation for optimal windshield adhesion (according to my installer), but at least it was, in fact, an added layer of protection - hence leakage but no rust.

So the news for T1N Interstate owners would appear to be mixed. You are at high risk of windshield leakage, in the expected fashion of the brand. But when your windshield does leak, rust may be slower in getting a foothold.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:15 PM   #86
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After our 12 day trip, I can't recommend the 90% 3M Crystalline on side windows. Too much heat came through once we returned from cooler climates to Texas.


I thought the combination of original window tint (little as there may be) and the 90% would be enough to block the sun's heat and yet not affect night vision. Since the 90% is so light (hardly noticeable) and I don't really intend to drive at night, I now regret not going going with 70%.


Since we cracked the windshield before we even left our city limits on day 1, I'm so glad I didn't spend the $500 to have it tinted too. One bullet dodged.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:19 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
After our 12 day trip, I can't recommend the 90% 3M Crystalline on side windows. Too much heat came through once we returned from cooler climates to Texas.


I thought the combination of original window tint (little as there may be) and the 90% would be enough to block the sun's heat and yet not affect night vision. Since the 90% is so light (hardly noticeable) and I don't really intend to drive at night, I now regret not going going with 70%.


Since we cracked the windshield before we even left our city limits on day 1, I'm so glad I didn't spend the $500 to have it tinted too. One bullet dodged.
CR-70 is the way to go... I apologize if I contributed to the confusion...

CR-70 is clear enough to not be an issue at night...
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:34 PM   #88
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I did 90 on windshield and 70 on doors right before I headed to Texas. Just returned home to SC and I can't imagine my trip without it. I slept in my AI 19 nights. I probably would have baked without it. A very good investment!
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:19 PM   #89
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CR-70 is the way to go... I apologize if I contributed to the confusion...

CR-70 is clear enough to not be an issue at night...

No need to apologize. I knew most were getting the darker crystalline tint and happy with it. I just decided to err on the side of night vision with side mirrors (even though I'll probably never drive at night). I was thinking a little more tint would be enough, but I had yet to own my Avenue through a Texas Summer, even though I should have known better.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:34 PM   #90
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I did 90 on windshield and 70 on doors right before I headed to Texas. Just returned home to SC and I can't imagine my trip without it. I slept in my AI 19 nights. I probably would have baked without it. A very good investment!

You probably did the right thing. However, I still use commercial window coverings from "Coverking"when parked in direct sun and for night time privacy.
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Old 05-26-2018, 03:59 PM   #91
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Just washed all the Texas bugs off my AI, whoever mentioned the bounce dryer sheet to get them off....THANK YOU! However after only 3 weeks and 1 trip, I do have a small chip in the windsheild. I thought it was a baked on bug but its not. At what point do you have to do something? It is very small
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:23 PM   #92
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Just washed all the Texas bugs off my AI, whoever mentioned the bounce dryer sheet to get them off....THANK YOU! However after only 3 weeks and 1 trip, I do have a small chip in the windsheild. I thought it was a baked on bug but its not. At what point do you have to do something? It is very small

Someone else will have to answer. My windshield luck is always bad. I never get chips, only cracks which start out about 2"-3" inches then proceed to run horizontally across requiring replacement.



You could start with a call to your insurance company or a visit to a trusted auto glass shop
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Old 05-26-2018, 06:05 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
After our 12 day trip, I can't recommend the 90% 3M Crystalline on side windows. Too much heat came through once we returned from cooler climates to Texas.

Since we cracked the windshield before we even left our city limits on day 1, I'm so glad I didn't spend the $500 to have it tinted too. One bullet dodged.
Even though I do not have CR90 or CR70, I have to agree with you. CR90 TSER is 34% but CR70 is 50%. Big diff. Just by comparison, my LLUMAR AIR80 TSER is 43%. So I am dead smack in between the CR90 & CR70. Huge diff. with 43% vs. bare auto window. I think that extra 7% from mine would still be noticeable. But, look at it this way, you are still rejecting 34% more than without it for virtually the clearest tint of all options. If it was my wife's car (knowing she has to drive many times in the dark early hours and early night) I would probably have chosen CR90 or AIR90 too, just because she has a tough time with dark tint at night. But since I am the only person who would normally drive the AI, I was ok with the darker. Lucky dodge on windshield
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Old 02-05-2019, 08:56 PM   #94
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Check before tinting your side & rear windows

Just discovered today that my van comes with the W70 option. A source was generous enough to provide me info from my DataCard to confirm this. I assume that most AI's have this option, I just can not envision AS ordering the vans without the W70 and then tinting it themselves. MB states the side & rear windows come with dark-grey 90% tinting. It reduces heat from solar radiation by 90% (compared to un-tinted) & 85% (compared to the green-tinted driver/passenger/windshield glass). The 3 most important specs for evaluating window tint are TSER (Total Solar Energy Reduction), VLT (Visible Light Transmission), & UVR (UV Rejection). These MB specs already far exceed LLUMAR, 3M Crystalline, or any other after-market tinting product.

So, what's the big deal? Well, if it were not for the powershades enclosure that is such a PITA to remove and my tint shop did not want to get involved in that, I would have spent lots of money to re-tint the side & back windows. I have been led to believe by 100% of any tinting shop or tint manufacturer that the factory tints that vehicle manufacturers put in the rear section of vans/suvs are no more than "low VLT dark privacy tinitng" that does nothing to help TSER & UVR reduction.

The other big deal is the windows with the flip-out bottoms are not MB OEM, they are CR Laurence windows. And the only spec they post for their Sprinter windows is they are 28% solar privacy glass. What exactly does that mean? 28% VLT or 28% TSER or both?
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:04 PM   #95
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My Classic SonderKlasse W140

While this is not an AI, it is still a MB that has taken advantage of the new technology in window tinting. This SonderKlasse (S-Class W140 ) is a 1995 part of the 1st batch to land stateside in early 1994. It will be officially a "Classic Car" status in couple of months. 25yrs. old & 25,000 dry highway miles. Though things still break - not from abuse but lack-o-use. At my mechanic's advice, I will use it more - in summer time of course. So it was imperative to get the latest tinting tech.

To celebrate it's new status and the fact that it has crossed over from the 20th to 21st century, the old technology tinting has been ripped off. It now has the same tinting as the AI.
- front windshield - Llumar Air Block 80 BL SR HPR
- front visor - Llumar CTX15 CH SR HPR ceramic
- side windows - Llumar CTX15 CH SR HPR ceramic
- rear windshield - Llumar CTX05 CH SR HPR Limo ceramic
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