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Old 07-14-2016, 11:11 PM   #1
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Fresh water tank DRAIN

If such a thread is exist please refer me to it )))

Does a drain valve of fresh water tank have already been installed by factory in the AI, or I have to make one?

If it is there, where exactly?

If not there, which valve and where in the tank it is better to install?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:03 AM   #2
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My Interstate has a fresh water drain plug, easily reachable when lying on your back alongside the van and reaching underneath, just slightly behind the position of the fresh water tank fill port. It has a hex head but is made of plastic so you have to be careful to avoid messing it up as you open it. This is the tool I found most effective for opening the drain without damaging it:

It's called a Knipex plier-wrench, and I bought mine at my local Sears store. Like a cross between an adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:10 AM   #3
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Got it, Protagonist, I will drain it tomorrow, because it is probably already cooked under 100 degrees weather )))
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:13 AM   #4
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I added a brass NPT to Hose Bib adapter so I don't wear the plastic threads on the fresh water tank fitting. I close off the drain with a Hose Bib cap that is just a bit lower than the original plug. It has worked well for three years now and I normally empty the tank about five times each year. Here is photo.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
This is the tool I found most effective for opening the drain without damaging it:

It's called a Knipex plier-wrench, and I bought mine at my local Sears store. Like a cross between an adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers.
It was foolish to pay $14 for this uni-tasker socket, but it sure works great for the fresh water plug. And I guess I could use it to crack nuts.

https://goo.gl/wSPmrC
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:30 PM   #6
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It was foolish to pay $14 for this uni-tasker socket, but it sure works great for the fresh water plug. And I guess I could use it to crack nuts.

https://goo.gl/wSPmrC
Yes sure I already thought about it, and I will use one from my set of deep chrom-vanadium impacts. Thank you for showing the size.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
I added a brass NPT to Hose Bib adapter so I don't wear the plastic threads on the fresh water tank fitting. I close off the drain with a Hose Bib cap that is just a bit lower than the original plug. It has worked well for three years now and I normally empty the tank about five times each year. Here is photo.
Attachment 266827


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Will see.. maybe it's better to insert some on-off drain facet there, so if I'll do it I'll post pictures. Thank you for your effort to make for me a photo, Mike.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:53 PM   #8
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What was your reason for draining it? I refill my fresh water whenever I get back from a trip and keep it full for my next trip. I don't use my fresh water tank to drink. I heard people drain it for winter, but I don't have to worry about snow in LA.
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Old 07-15-2016, 01:22 PM   #9
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What was your reason for draining it? I refill my fresh water whenever I get back from a trip and keep it full for my next trip. I don't use my fresh water tank to drink. I heard people drain it for winter, but I don't have to worry about snow in LA.
I also not drink it, but it may sour staying at 100 degrees Florida heat outside. I open a galley faucet and the hot water comes )))
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Old 07-15-2016, 01:33 PM   #10
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I also not drink it, but it may sour staying at 100 degrees Florida heat outside. I open a galley faucet and the hot water comes )))
Clean fresh water will not stagnate. Only water containing organic material will stagnate.

Water can taste "flat" when it loses dissolved oxygen after a long period of storage, but driving around with a partially-full tank will agitate it and put oxygen back in. A flat taste is not the same as stagnation, and drinking flat water is not harmful.

Not much you can do about the water getting hot before you can use it if the weather is that hot, except maybe use that water to brew sun tea.
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:12 PM   #11
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Someone here installed a valve in place of the plug which sticks down further than I'd want it since knocking it off would not only empty the tank but most likely destroy the tank fitting. Then how to replace that would be the next task.

I just use the correct size socket and ratchet. Don't even have to lie on my back, just reach under and do it by feel. I do put new thread tape on it each time which both seals it and protects the threads.
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:31 PM   #12
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How about this one, Marc, it looks like it will be only half of an inch lower then the original plug
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:42 PM   #13
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How about this one, Marc, it looks like it will be only half of an inch lower then the original plug
You'd have to trim off the threads so that they don't stick up above the bottom of the tank, or else you'd never be able to completely drain the tank. That's one advantage of sticking with a removable plug instead of a valve.
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:50 PM   #14
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You'd have to trim off the threads so that they don't stick up above the bottom of the tank, or else you'd never be able to completely drain the tank. That's one advantage of sticking with a removable plug instead of a valve.
This valve is designed for 3/8 or 1/2 thread. Ours is the bigger one, a half-inch, so you just cut the unnessessary 3/8 portion, and it will fit even with the bottom of tank.
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