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Old 07-15-2016, 06:05 PM   #15
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This valve is designed for 3/8 or 1/2 thread. Ours is the bigger one, a half-inch, so you just cut the unnessessary 3/8 portion, and it will fit even with the bottom of tank.
You may also have to cut off a few of the 1/2 threads to get it flush with the tank bottom when screwed all the way in. Don't go by the original plug, which can stick up without affecting anything, go by the number of threads on the tank itself.
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:05 PM   #16
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How about this one, Marc, it looks like it will be only half of an inch lower then the original plug
Looks like it would work. Let us know how it turns out.

I'm sticking w/ the plug (KISS philosophy).
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:20 PM   #17
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Might be too small

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This valve is designed for 3/8 or 1/2 thread. Ours is the bigger one, a half-inch, so you just cut the unnessessary 3/8 portion, and it will fit even with the bottom of tank.
I have that valve and IIRC both sets of threads are too small for the fresh water plug.
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:54 PM   #18
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What was your reason for draining it? I refill my fresh water whenever I get back from a trip and keep it full for my next trip. I don't use my fresh water tank to drink. I heard people drain it for winter, but I don't have to worry about snow in LA.

Oh if only I again lived in that perfect climate of California. 😎

I have to drain it during the freezing winters here in Maryland and again when I return form our typical Florida trip in February to unthaw. If it sits full like now at 90-100 degF it tends to grow things so I shock it with bleach, drain and refill before the next trip.


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Old 07-15-2016, 08:00 PM   #19
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You may also have to cut off a few of the 1/2 threads to get it flush with the tank bottom when screwed all the way in. Don't go by the original plug, which can stick up without affecting anything, go by the number of threads on the tank itself.
It was smart!
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:03 PM   #20
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Oh if only I again lived in that perfect climate of California. ��

I have to drain it during the freezing winters here in Maryland and again when I return form our typical Florida trip in February to unthaw. If it sits full like now at 90-100 degF it tends to grow things so I shock it with bleach, drain and refill before the next trip.


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Chlorine smell is difficult to eliminate, and once you shock tank with bleach, it should stinks then?
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:15 PM   #21
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Chlorine smell is difficult to eliminate, and once you shock tank with bleach, it should stinks then?

I prefer a little chlorine odor to the green slim I've drained from the tank in the past when I let it sit for a few months at end of a summer trip.


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Old 07-15-2016, 08:27 PM   #22
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I prefer a little chlorine odor to the green slim I've drained from the tank in the past when I let it sit for a few months at end of a summer trip.


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Make sense indeed )
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:29 PM   #23
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I always add a little bleach Each time I fill.

As far as wrench use, NO WAY. I use some plumbers tape also and just tighten and undo by hand. It's very easy to strip drain plug or tank threading.


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Old 07-15-2016, 08:40 PM   #24
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I always add a little bleach Each time I fill.
According to both the EPA and the World Health Organization, a chlorine residual between 1% and 4% is drinkable— and chlorine is recommended for emergency treatment of water supplies— but some people can taste concentrations as low as 2%. A 1% concentration is virtually undetectable by human taste buds. But as long as there is any chlorine residual in the water, no microorganisms can grow in it.

Note that even 4% chlorine is way less than the concentration used to sanitize your tank.

Also, with a vented tank, the concentration of chlorine in a tank of fresh water should drop by about 1% per day because chlorine gradually evaporates out of the water. If you add 4% chlorine when you fill the tank, then by day 5 all of the chlorine should be gone.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:16 PM   #25
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I have that valve and IIRC both sets of threads are too small for the fresh water plug.
You appeared to be the most correct in regards of the plug size.
Our fresh water drain plug is 3/4 inch, so the above pictured plastic crap wound not fit.

I bought today the brass one of the correct size at a local Home Depot (pictured), however it sticks down for two inches.
No good also.

Thus, if nobody have any other advise, I will follow recommendations of the majority - will use the stock plug.

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Old 07-16-2016, 06:35 AM   #26
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socket, no wrench

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I always add a little bleach Each time I fill.

As far as wrench use, NO WAY. I use some plumbers tape also and just tighten and undo by hand. It's very easy to strip drain plug or tank threading.


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You are right, but if you use the 1" giganto deep socket it makes a great "hand tightener" without an actual ratchet.
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:19 PM   #27
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The update.

I found the solution by cutting with Dremel a half of the new brass socket, right to the place of switching ball. So, now the total length down from the factory water tank cap collar is 1 inch, which is not dangerous to scratch it, though I do not drive on havy terrains.
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:34 PM   #28
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But I still have a concern.

The original screwed tank cap had traces of green mold and algae, that means the water always had some leak through the cap thread although I had found it on a Teflon tape.

I put a lot of new Teflon tape on the brass thread, and I made several attempts to screw in the new facet to avoid water drops. My concern is that there were always a hanging drop of water from between the threads. Finally I put almost half of a roll of Teflon tape to avoid water drops, however I don't want to brake the tank because the mother thread made of plastic. Will see and keep you updated.

Should the water drop anyway will appear there, is any other method exist to patch between the threads? I would like to put it permanently but with ability to unscrew it if needed, so JB-weld epoxy would not be a solution.
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