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Old 05-23-2014, 06:30 PM   #1
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Fresh Water Tank Drain

I recently received a question about the fresh water tank drain. This drain is that white plastic plug with hex head about 1 foot behind the drivers door under the tank. It's another one of those areas where Airstream went with the cheap solution rather than provide a drain valve like Roadtrek and others.

I installed an adapter for an easy to remove hose bib cap. Picture below is shot of this low profile solution. When I flush tanks I just attached a hose shut-off valve to give me a temporary valve.

I know some others have installed an elbow on the drain and a line to a valve. I looked at doing that too, but the elbow hung down lower than my simple solution the NPT-to-hose bib adapters are available at Lowes and Home Depot.
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:51 AM   #2
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What I would like to do is find a shop nearby, good luck, that has the ability to do a "spin weld" into the poly tanks. I'd have them put another threaded location on the front facing vertical wall down near the bottom. This would allow a ¼ turn vale to be left there for a simple, quick dump. Sure it would not be totally empty but would facilitate a better solution than what AI provides.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:58 AM   #3
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Not sure what's driving the need for a quick dump valve. It takes me about 30 seconds and a ratchet to remove the plug. Only dump at the end of the trip.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:24 AM   #4
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Not sure what's driving the need for a quick dump valve. It takes me about 30 seconds and a ratchet to remove the plug. Only dump at the end of the trip.
Don't know about everyone else Shark, but my concern was wearing out or striping the threads on the tank. Cost me less than 15 bucks for a plastic ball valve and a 3/4" street elbow. I mounted it with the valve handle on top to provide max clearance.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:39 AM   #5
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Don't know about everyone else Shark, but my concern was wearing out or striping the threads on the tank.
Not gonna happen. The plug is made of a softer plastic than the tank. For good reason. If anything strips, it will be the threads on the plug rather than on the tank. I'm still looking for a good source of spare drain plugs— they're an uncommon size— but as soon as I find a source I'll pick up a couple of spares, just for peace of mind.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:43 AM   #6
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Sanitizing the tanks requires draining, then refilling with some bleach and then draining again after several hours of contact time. I do this a few times a year now. The first year I had my AI I left the water in too long and had a bad green algae contamination. The fresh water tank takes regular maintenance like a swimming pool.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:52 AM   #7
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Sanitizing the tanks requires draining, then refilling with some bleach and then draining again after several hours of contact time. I do this a few times a year now. The first year I had my AI I left the water in too long and had a bad green algae contamination. The fresh water tank takes regular maintenance like a swimming pool.
I make a point of having a full freshwater tank throughout hurricane season, in case I have to evacuate. I sanitize once a year after unwinterizing, use a granular activated carbon filter to filter all water going into the tank, and add a SMALL amount of chlorine every time I fill the tank the rest of the year. When I say a small amount, I'm not talking about a sanitizing dose; it's a lot less than that.

EPA allows up to 4 parts per million of chlorine in drinking water, and as long as there is ANY detectable chlorine in the water, microbes and algae won't grow. As long as there is between 0.1ppm and 4.0ppm the water will be pretty much germ- and algae-free.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:28 AM   #8
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I guess I'm more concerned about knocking a valve off or anything else that reduces ground clearance and dumping the tank.

I always use thread tape, so the chance of striping the threads is reduced.

I sanitize once a year but we don't drink the water.
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:53 PM   #9
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One of you veteran posters please refresh my memory on how to add a photo to a post.
Thanks,
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:01 PM   #10
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Select "Go Advanced" and then "Manage Attachments". Then go to " Browse " and pick the file you want to attach.
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:12 PM   #11
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Here is my inexpensive solution.
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:24 PM   #12
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I make a point of having a full freshwater tank throughout hurricane season, in case I have to evacuate. I sanitize once a year after unwinterizing, use a granular activated carbon filter to filter all water going into the tank, and add a SMALL amount of chlorine every time I fill the tank the rest of the year. When I say a small amount, I'm not talking about a sanitizing dose; it's a lot less than that.

EPA allows up to 4 parts per million of chlorine in drinking water, and as long as there is ANY detectable chlorine in the water, microbes and algae won't grow. As long as there is between 0.1ppm and 4.0ppm the water will be pretty much germ- and algae-free.

Thanks Protag,
What amount of bleach do you add to your tank to get the required amount of chlorine under 4 ppm? Or do you use some form of pool chlorine?

Thanks,
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:02 PM   #13
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Boxster...try this link

Emergency Water Purification Calculator
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:39 PM   #14
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Good source of info. But this would be a problem for most people:

"To insure that Clorox Bleach is at its full strength, rotate or replace your storage bottle minimally every three months."
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:35 PM   #15
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Unless I am seriously mistaken...the "storage bottle" refers to your Clorox bottle. Shouldn't be a problem...
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:49 PM   #16
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My 06-07 Sprinter Airstream has drain cocks located on the driver's side rear wheel well to drain the hot and cold water lines and a valve at the fresh ware tank fo draining. Not that I ever need to winternize!
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:13 PM   #17
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Unless I am seriously mistaken...the "storage bottle" refers to your Clorox bottle. Shouldn't be a problem...

Agree it refers to the Clorox bottle. My point was; you buy bottle of bleach then use a few teaspoons and after three months you should thrown the rest away? I think the bottle of bleach in our laundry is over a year old now.
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:27 PM   #18
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When I did the math....the link info yields a concentration 4 times higher than what the Interstate Manual indicates.....hmmmmmmm.
I always try to buy the smallest bottle I can find, or plan for a lot of white laundy....
You also never know how many months the Clorox bottle has sat on the store shelves. I doubt it matters realistically, if the bottle has not been opened, and isn't years old. Any chemists out there take issue with that?
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #19
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I seem to remember that light tends to breakdown Clorox so probably best to keep in a cool, dark place as higher temps also leads to degradation of just about everything.
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:57 PM   #20
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Protag,
Please let us know if you find a source for the drain plugs. I recently replaced our water heater and sanitized it. When I drained it by removing the drain plug, I can't seem to get it back in without cross threading it.
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