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Old 02-21-2012, 05:54 PM   #29
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if you are not using the bed there is enough space for 4 or more pieces of luggage or 4 golf bags. I'm thinking of putting a bar up for hanging bags. I don't think that piling stuff up to the ceiling would work anyway. I will give you a better answer after the next two weekends.

With the bed down I think you could still get quite a bit. Also, the area under the floor is useable. I think you could get at least 4 bags laying down in the back plus.

Additionally. the overhead storage is larger and two feet deeper over the bed.

At this point we are very happy with the unit.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:58 PM   #30
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Oh first trip out in stiff winds the Interstate was a little hard to drive. It wanted to dodge a little back and forth. With lower winds on the way back it was great. Overall i am very satisfied with the unit.

The extra storage came in handy with all the gear we brought along. So far we have had no issues with the Interstate.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:22 AM   #31
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How was your mpg? Speed?
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:52 PM   #32
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MPG in the wind 17, no wind 17.8. 1000 miles on the unit.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:03 PM   #33
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Can the bed be used without the extension so stuff in the packed rear can stay put when one is stopping for a quick overnight stay? I assume the bed would be the same size as the 22' lounge model when used without the extension.
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:22 AM   #34
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Yes you can use the bed. There are fillers that fold down to make the bed longer. You might could find a cargo net to keep your item in place.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:26 AM   #35
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Let me restate my question. I am traveling to a destination that takes a stop over or two to make it to the destination.

The extra space in the rear is fully stuffed with gear but not piled up very high. I want to do a quick stop over in the middle of the trip and leave early in the morning. When I get to my destination I will unload the rear stuff and use the bed extension to have a larger bed.

But I do not want to move anything when I do a quick stop over. My question is will the bed still fold down with the stuff in the rear? I realize that the stuff may be higher than the bed.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:26 PM   #36
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[QUOTE]Let me restate my question. I am traveling to a destination that takes a stop over or two to make it to the destination.

The extra space in the rear is fully stuffed with gear but not piled up very high. I want to do a quick stop over in the middle of the trip and leave early in the morning. When I get to my destination I will unload the rear stuff and use the bed extension to have a larger bed.

But I do not want to move anything when I do a quick stop over. My question is will the bed still fold down with the stuff in the rear? I realize that the stuff may be higher than/QUOTE]

The answer is yes. The bottom of the couch moves forward and the back of the couch doesn't move backward. You would have to remove the head rest.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:40 PM   #37
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Thanks for the definite answer to the bed question.

For other variations that the 22' model offers, I was told no plans by Airstream to produce a wardrobe model or any other variations for the extended.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:34 PM   #38
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Does anyone know what valves I need to check in order to get my fresh water system to pressure up? I have the 2012 Extended rear lounge model. The dealer has been no help. The valves under the sink are drain valves. There are two valves under the rear cup holder that appear to be shut off hot and cold valves.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:55 PM   #39
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First, can I suggest that you start a new thread for the water system question?

You say your water system isn't getting up to pressure; is the pump running at all?
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:11 PM   #40
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Does anyone know what valves I need to check in order to get my fresh water system to pressure up? I have the 2012 Extended rear lounge model. The dealer has been no help. The valves under the sink are drain valves. There are two valves under the rear cup holder that appear to be shut off hot and cold valves.
In order to put your freshwater system into service, there are several steps:
1 - Remove the curb-side cup holder by the rear sofa, and close the two low-point drains. One or both may be hidden under electrical wiring bundles.
2 - Remove the bottom drawer under the sink and close the two low-point drains. While you've got the drawer out, make sure the inlet and outlet lines for the freshwater pump are firmly connected. Leave the drawer out for now.
3 - While we're on the subject of valves, make sure the valve behind the toilet is open as well.
3 - Open the streetside access panel at the rear and make sure the water heater drain plug is installed.
4 - Under the RV on the street side, at the rear of the freshwater tank, make sure the drain plug is firmly installed.
You should now be ready to pressurize your system.
Decide if you're using municipal water or onboard water.
5A - If municipal water, when you connect the water hose to the street-side fitting, that provides water to all of your faucets, the toilet, and the water heater, but NOT to yuor freshwater tank. You also do not need the freshwater pump, and can't even activate it; the pressure provided by municipal water keeps the pressure switch for the pump from coming on.
5B - If you're using onboard water, then you have to stick your hose into the gravity-fill port on the curbside, located right below the municipal water hookup. Fill the tank until it just overflows onto the ground. Go inside and turn on the pump. Leave the switch in the "on" position.
From this point, all the steps are once again the same for both municipal and onboard water.
6 - Open one faucet, with the lever all the way over to "hot." When water flows from the faucet in a steady stream without spurting air, the water heater is full. You can now turn on your water heater.
7 - Open the other faucet on hot to bleed air out of it.
8 - Then turn both faucets all the way over to cold, to bleed air from the cold side.
9 - Also flush your toilet once, allowing the bowl to fill about halfway before pressing the foot pedal the rest of the way to drain the bowl. This bleeds air out of the toilet line.
That's it. System is full, pressurized, and ready to use. Now it's time to check for leaks. That's why we left the drawer out, so you can check for leaks around the pump. When you're satisfied that the system isn't leaking, put the drawer back in, and you're done. Next time you use your RV, you'll be able to skip steps 1 through 4, and jump straight to Step 5, at least until the next time you winterize.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Does anyone know what valves I need to check in order to get my fresh water system to pressure up? I have the 2012 Extended rear lounge model. The dealer has been no help. The valves under the sink are drain valves. There are two valves under the rear cup holder that appear to be shut off hot and cold valves.
For future reference, the procedure just described is contained in the owner's manual but perhaps not as clearly.

If you didn't get one, lean on the dealer as there is a soft side briefcase that comes w/ the RV and it also contains instructions/warranties for all the installed equipment.

Did you buy it from a MB Airstream dealer?
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:16 AM   #42
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For future reference, the procedure just described is contained in the owner's manual but perhaps not as clearly.

If you didn't get one, lean on the dealer as there is a soft side briefcase that comes w/ the RV and it also contains instructions/warranties for all the installed equipment.

Did you buy it from a MB Airstream dealer?
You're absolutely right, it is in the manual, though not neatly compiled. The information is scattered throughout the Plumbing section, and there is no convenient riser diagram like in the trailer manuals to show where the valves are.

Plus, I forgot one step when writing out the procedure (see, that's why checklists are so handy!):
Sometime before Step 6, you also have to open the street-side rear door and reach under the sofa to make sure the water heater bypass is in the open position (closed bypasses the heater). As with the drain valves, once this is open, you won't have to worry about it again until you winterize or until someone pulls maintenance oon the water heater.
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