Originally Posted by BL1996
Does anyone know what valves I need to check in order to get my fresh water system to pressure up? I have the 2012 Extended rear lounge model. The dealer has been no help. The valves under the sink are drain valves. There are two valves under the rear cup holder that appear to be shut off hot and cold valves.
In order to put your freshwater system into service, there are several steps:
1 - Remove the curb-side cup holder by the rear sofa, and close the two low-point drains. One or both may be hidden under electrical wiring bundles.
2 - Remove the bottom drawer under the sink and close the two low-point drains. While you've got the drawer out, make sure the inlet and outlet lines for the freshwater pump are firmly connected. Leave the drawer out for now.
3 - While we're on the subject of valves, make sure the valve behind the toilet is open as well.
3 - Open the streetside access panel at the rear and make sure the water heater drain plug is installed.
4 - Under the RV on the street side, at the rear of the freshwater tank, make sure the drain plug is firmly installed.
You should now be ready to pressurize your system.
Decide if you're using municipal water or onboard water.
5A - If municipal water, when you connect the water hose to the street-side fitting, that provides water to all of your faucets, the toilet, and the water heater, but NOT to yuor freshwater tank. You also do not need the freshwater pump, and can't even activate it; the pressure provided by municipal water keeps the pressure switch for the pump from coming on.
5B - If you're using onboard water, then you have to stick your hose into the gravity-fill port on the curbside, located right below the municipal water hookup. Fill the tank until it just overflows onto the ground. Go inside and turn on the pump. Leave the switch in the "on" position.
From this point, all the steps are once again the same for both municipal and onboard water.
6 - Open one faucet, with the lever all the way over to "hot." When water flows from the faucet in a steady stream without spurting air, the water heater is full. You can now turn on your water heater.
7 - Open the other faucet on hot to bleed air out of it.
8 - Then turn both faucets all the way over to cold, to bleed air from the cold side.
9 - Also flush your toilet once, allowing the bowl to fill about halfway before pressing the foot pedal the rest of the way to drain the bowl. This bleeds air out of the toilet line.
That's it. System is full, pressurized, and ready to use. Now it's time to check for leaks. That's why we left the drawer out, so you can check for leaks around the pump. When you're satisfied that the system isn't leaking, put the drawer back in, and you're done. Next time you use your RV, you'll be able to skip steps 1 through 4, and jump straight to Step 5, at least until the next time you winterize.