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Old 07-01-2015, 09:04 AM   #1
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Engine warning light question

I made a short trip to Nashville and had an engine warning light come on. I took it in to have it looked at and they told me it was a "low voltage code on the exhaust gas recirculation valve". They could find nothing wrong and reset it, however, almost immediately it has gone off again. Has anyone had a similar issue?

This is on a 2014 Airstream Interstate.

Thanks,
Greg
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:41 AM   #2
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I assume you are referring to the "check engine" light. Over the years our "check engine" has activated many times on several tow vehicles. This occurs most often after a steep uphill climb while pulling the Airstream.

We have had our own OBD II electronic reader for about fifteen years now. It has saved us thousands of dollars in dealer service fees.

The issue (code) is always something to do with the vehicle's emissions system. We just reset the "check engine" light ourselves.

Years ago when I bought my OBD II Reader, it cost about $80. Now you can get one on Amazon for around $20. This is probably a lot less than you paid the dealer to handle this for you.

Brian
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:41 AM   #3
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For roughly $20 you can get so much more than a simple code reader.
Lucky for me, I work in IT, and am in charge of most things with electricity.
As such, people are constantly giving me old/antiquated technology.. computers, monitors, printers, cell phones.

I've repurposed one of the Android phones for use in my daily driver a 2005 F250 CCSB 6.0

And then I run an application called Torque Pro $4.99 through the Android Play store.

I bought a cheap ELM327 ODB2 Bluetooth adapter from the internet for $13.99

With it, I can read codes, clear codes, run some diagnostic tests, and log data, and I have 12 active displays showing me what my engine is doing while I drive.

The problem I've had with straight code readers is that they are static, they only tell you what is resident in the memory of the ECM at the time that you check it. With the ability to watch and log live data (you can also set alerts) you can see a problem happening.

For example,
The Ford 6.0 has a reputation as being 'unreliable'. There are many reasons for this, but it all stems from Ford's very own antifreeze.

The coolant path flows from water pump, into Oil Cooler, and finally the EGR Cooler.

When the oil cooler becomes plugged with precipitate or gel from the stock type antifreeze; the Oil cooler plugs, which starves the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler super heats and ruptures, which leads to antifreeze getting into the intake tract and cylinders. The liquid does not compress like air/fuel, so it stretches the head bolts and pops head gaskets.

Now if a person is watching the live read outs on the App, the thing to watch for is a temperature difference of more than 15 degrees between the Engine Oil Temperature and the Engine Coolant Temperature. This doesn't signify imminent danger, but it is a warning sign that the oil cooler should be replaced as soon as possible.

I am in no way, shape, or form associated with Torque Application, and there are others, Dash Boss for iProducts comes to mind.

There is another app for PCs called Auto Enginuity that can also perform these task and more, but it is significantly more expensive.

For my Ford, I joined PowerStroke.org, a wealth of information from average Joe's and Certified Ford Techs.

For a Dodge, I'd highly recommend finding a good forum, sorry I don't know of any in particular.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:44 AM   #4
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My check engine light, and the one for the brakes, goes on and off regularly.

I have stopped worrying about it. Nothing is ever found to be wrong, my Interstate is serviced regularly, I just ignore them....and they go off.

My brake sensor seems especially bothered by dusty or sandy conditions. A drive thru a puddle or trip to the car wash generally turns that one off.


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Old 07-01-2015, 12:11 PM   #5
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My Range Rover HSE engine check light came on on our first day out on this trip. Searched online and others found their gas cap was not turned to full tight (we can't self fuel in Oregon) and sure enough, my cap was not fully tight. Light cleared after five more start ups. Hope yours is as easy, good luck.
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:45 PM   #6
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Low voltage to the EGR valve. We can't find the problem. Clear the code and wait for the light to come back on. This is auto-speak for, "We don't know what the hell's going on with your car."

Even on a good day, automotive electronics are difficult to diagnose. As an owner, your best recourse is to be pro-active in all things related to your rig.

For an EGR issue (even if it's electronic - low voltage) a fuel injection service is probably the right thing to do.

Also, it's not good for any vehicle to sit for extended periods of time. Take it on the freeway and run it hard and hot for a while. Those carbon deposits need to be blown out.

Tom
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:05 AM   #7
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Finding the cause of a code can be a real challenge even when equipped with all the right tools. The emissions system is a system of checks and balances. Low EGR voltage, check upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Its usually something simple, you just have to find it. My scantool goes with me everywhere. So does my hammer.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman View Post
My scantool goes with me everywhere. So does my hammer.
Because you never know when you'll have to do some "percussive maintenance."
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:16 AM   #9
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Because you never know when you'll have to do some "percussive maintenance."
Naahhh. Sometimes it's like playing "Whack-A-Mole"
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Old 07-03-2015, 01:53 PM   #10
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I keep my hammer in hand when dealing with my mechanic.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:33 AM   #11
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I keep my hammer in hand when dealing with my mechanic.
You should get a new mechanic. If you do not have a good relationship with them, it would be best for both of you, to seek a shop you are confident in. As a shop owner, I explain to our clients that it is we humans vs. the machines. There can not be an adversarial relationship or nothing is accomplished and the vehicle suffers. If you think a good technician is expensive, try a bad one.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:07 AM   #12
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I found the best shop in America to work on mine...
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman View Post
My scantool goes with me everywhere.
So does my hammer.
One of my favorite quotes.. "When the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail."

Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman View Post
Finding the cause of a code can be a real challenge even when equipped with all the right tools.
No truer words have been spoken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyCorpsman View Post
The emissions system is a system of checks and balances. Low EGR voltage, check upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Its usually something simple, you just have to find it.
I'll admit that I don't know a whole lot about non PowerStroke diesels. I have never heard of a diesel having an O2 sensor. Up and downstream O2 sensors are extremely common in gas motors as far back as 1995/6 (in GMs anyhow)


I peeked at your profile and it says 2015 Dodge as a TV, I'm assuming that all trucks of that same generation are still under warranty and you might not find a lot of information specifically about them until owners have to start performing their own repairs.

You didn't specify the error message, so I googled Dodge Cummins Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and found this page
Dodge Cummins Check Engine Light Trouble Codes DTC List
This one seems to fit your description.

P0405 EGR POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW

More googling..
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=104482
Quote:
You might just double check the connection and wires on the egr valve to make sure they look good. Some maf sensor cleaner does wonders for cleaning the pins on those. If you've never changed the egr valve it is probably worth the $40 to have a nice clean one installed and your pins will then obviously be very clean.
Egr position sensor circuit low - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
Quote:
Unplug & plug back in the EGR actuator plug. That's the one throwing the P0405 code. You may even want to clean the connectors. You did replace the plunger, right?
Did you plug the TV connector back in?
I found lots of other threads for Gen III cummins, but they were mostly related to individuals who unplugged their EGR or were using a tuner.

I tried to find 'official' Cummins Emissions diagrams and information, but this is as close as I got.
6.7L Cummins Emissions System Explained

Being a new vehicle, you should at least report the issue to a dealership and see if they can take a look at it. Maybe they can't do anything, but you'd then have evidence in case in the future they ever have a recall, your vehicle experienced the issue, just in case they ever issue a recall or update.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:56 AM   #14
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Thanks for the kind words.
Something else I do is to buy well made tools. When you start to get aggravated you can take a break and admire the wrench in your hand. It gives the operator a chance to be thankful for the moment and clear your head.
As far as the hammers, I have a set of Blacksmith tools and can beat the problem into any conceivable, useful design.........
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