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Old 02-26-2014, 10:33 AM   #15
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Actually, I think the AI has a pretty decent electrical system. 1. The batteries will charge from all 4 sources and 2. they include the BIM which is something many coaches don't include. On my last two rv's I had to install an after-market Trickle-Start so my chassis battery would charge from shore power. Not a problem with the AI. The only change I've made to mine (electrically) is to add an interior propane switch and purchase a portable surge supressor. Happy with mine. :-)
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:48 PM   #16
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What do you think is the primary reason for the numerous chassis and house battery discharges?
Boxster1971 ran some tests last month and determined most of the unwanted draw comes from the Precision Circuits Inc. Battery Isolation Manager (BIM).
See the thread here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post1406721

Peter
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:54 AM   #17
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I agree that AI has a good electrical system. More solar would be an improvement.

Only one with better electrics in my view is the new Roadtrek E-Trek.
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:52 PM   #18
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The case for a Battery monitor

In my 2012 there is a .3 amp drain with everything I can turn off set to off, including the AC main breaker. This is according to my battery monitor I got from the fin folks at AM Solar in Springfield Or. Tri-Metric 2025-RV and wiring harness about $255.00 and well worth it. That drain can drop to about .1 amp from the feed from the 50 watt solar panel on the roof with even a small amount of sunlight. I my opinion if you are going to spend any time at all away from shore power you really need one of these. BTW next week (March 4th) I am having the guys at am solar put tow 105 watt panels and a new controller in I will let you know how that turns out.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:46 PM   #19
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We have a 2004 Interstate. We've had some, that is lots of electrical,issues. We installed a Trimetric meter so we know how much power we are using and the battery charge state. All was working fine last trip. While driving, the fridge showed it was drawing half an amp. But we noticed the chassis battery wasn't charging while we were driving. We replaced the BIS relay and a fuse. Now for reasons we cannot figure out the meter shows we are using 2.4 amps ALL the time. We have the main switch turned off. We took out the tv we never use. We took out the radio thinking the precious owner had it wired wrong--but of course that couldn't be the case, since all was well before. We are stumped. We have a front lounge model with twin beds. All the electrical is in the entertainment center behind the driver's seat. We took the top and the mid shelf off so,we could get to electrical stuff screwed to the back of the cabinet-- really stupid place to put stuff you might need to get too. Stumped, flumoxed. Really when the main switch is off, nothing should draw power. Ideas?
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:03 AM   #20
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We have a 2004 Interstate. We've had some, that is lots of electrical,issues. We installed a Trimetric meter so we know how much power we are using and the battery charge state. All was working fine last trip. While driving, the fridge showed it was drawing half an amp. But we noticed the chassis battery wasn't charging while we were driving. We replaced the BIS relay and a fuse. Now for reasons we cannot figure out the meter shows we are using 2.4 amps ALL the time. We have the main switch turned off. We took out the tv we never use. We took out the radio thinking the precious owner had it wired wrong--but of course that couldn't be the case, since all was well before. We are stumped. We have a front lounge model with twin beds. All the electrical is in the entertainment center behind the driver's seat. We took the top and the mid shelf off so,we could get to electrical stuff screwed to the back of the cabinet-- really stupid place to put stuff you might need to get too. Stumped, flumoxed. Really when the main switch is off, nothing should draw power. Ideas?

Unfortunately lots of things are still powered with main switch off. The parasitic load on my 2013 is about 0.4 amps all the time. Your 2.4 sounds very high. Are you sure your Trimetric is properly set for zero current?
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:00 AM   #21
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We have a 2004 Interstate. We've had some, that is lots of electrical,issues. We installed a Trimetric meter so we know how much power we are using and the battery charge state. All was working fine last trip. While driving, the fridge showed it was drawing half an amp. But we noticed the chassis battery wasn't charging while we were driving. We replaced the BIS relay and a fuse. Now for reasons we cannot figure out the meter shows we are using 2.4 amps ALL the time. We have the main switch turned off. We took out the tv we never use. We took out the radio thinking the precious owner had it wired wrong--but of course that couldn't be the case, since all was well before. We are stumped. We have a front lounge model with twin beds. All the electrical is in the entertainment center behind the driver's seat. We took the top and the mid shelf off so,we could get to electrical stuff screwed to the back of the cabinet-- really stupid place to put stuff you might need to get too. Stumped, flumoxed. Really when the main switch is off, nothing should draw power. Ideas?
2004s might very well be wired differently from later models, especially considering the large difference in floor plans between then and now, so all of this is speculation… Propane solenoid on mine draws about 0.75 amps when it's turned on, even when the house battery disconnect is switched off; yours might do the same. Inverter is probably also wired in parallel to the disconnect; if so it's still powered when the disconnect is switched off. Which also means that— if you leave your 120v breakers switched on— any 120v appliance with a remote control or a digital display would still be drawing some power as well. Also, even though you removed a television, did you also remove the antenna, if not, then the antenna amplifier might still be switched on; it too is also wired independently of the house battery disconnect.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:10 PM   #22
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Propane solenoid on mine draws about 0.75 amps when it's turned on, even when the house battery disconnect is switched off; yours might do the same.
My propane solenoid is not powered when the red 12 VDC knob is OFF.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:18 PM   #23
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My propane solenoid is not powered when the red 12 VDC knob is OFF.
Mine is. I can light my stove burners with the 12vDC system off, and they stay lit long enough to cook a meal. If my solenoid shut off when the 12v disconnect was shut off, I'd only be able to burn the little bit of propane left in the lines and then the burners would go out.
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:49 PM   #24
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I found out by inadvertently turning the 12 VDC off w/ the generator running. It didn't run long. Also can hear the solenoid when I switch it on.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:01 PM   #25
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Can't find the battery cut off switch.

But in general (and simplified as much as I can make it):
You have a chassis battery under the driver's footwell, a Group 49 AGM starting battery. You may or may not have an auxiliary battery under the hood, also a Group 49. The chassis system works everything in the dashboard, plus the retractable step by the sliding door, and the awning."

This seems ignorant, but do you mean the engine battery is under the driver's seat? I thought chassis referred to the engine battery and all other batteries were hoise batteries. We have an '04 and the engine battery is in the engine compartment under the hood, the house battery is under the passenger seat and we added another under the lounge.

We were intrigued by the possibility of a cut off switch so the battery isn't drained when in storage, or parked for a couple of months between trips. If we have one we can't find it. Here are a coupe of pictures. Ok I can only load one. Left side of drivers footwell.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:07 PM   #26
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Battery shut off switch

Try to post picture again. I can choose only one picture but it doesn't post.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:12 PM   #27
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Cut off switch

One more time for pictures. I used attach files but I don't see them.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:33 PM   #28
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This seems ignorant, but do you mean the engine battery is under the driver's seat? I thought chassis referred to the engine battery and all other batteries were hoise batteries.
For later models, the main battery for starting the engine is under the driver's footwell, directly in front of the seat. Since it's an AGM and doesn't need electrolyte added, that's as good of a tamper-resistant place as any to put it.
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We were intrigued by the possibility of a cut off switch so the battery isn't drained when in storage, or parked for a couple of months between trips. If we have one we can't find it.
Again for later models, the cutoff is immediately to the right of, and just above, the accelerator. It's a plug that you pull off, not a switch. 2004-2007 models may not have one.
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