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Old 08-25-2013, 05:20 PM   #21
c21
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Hi Wayne, I went with the 507 system because of the compact size of the monitor and the ease of programming. No need to enter codes to program, simply hold sensor next to monitor and push a button to program sensor. I opted for the standard sensors because the flow thru's seem to be quite a bit longer. I will be removing my sensors to save battery life between trips so easy enough to air tires before replacing the sensors. Sensors come with stick on numbers to id their location so you can put them back on the correct tire. Once you program your sensors and monitor, the screen only shows the tires in the locations where you installed sensors. In my case front axle, rear duals + single axle trailer. The screen cycles thru the eight tires reading out pressure and tempurature. Very nice and simple system.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:32 PM   #22
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Hi Wayne, I went with the 507 system because of the compact size of the monitor and the ease of programming. No need to enter codes to program, simply hold sensor next to monitor and push a button to program sensor. I opted for the standard sensors because the flow thru's seem to be quite a bit longer. I will be removing my sensors to save battery life between trips so easy enough to air tires before replacing the sensors. Sensors come with stick on numbers to id their location so you can put them back on the correct tire. Once you program your sensors and monitor, the screen only shows the tires in the locations where you installed sensors. In my case front axle, rear duals + single axle trailer. The screen cycles thru the eight tires reading out pressure and tempurature. Very nice and simple system.
Don't they go to sleep when motionless or are you going to remove the battery's when you remove them?
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:54 PM   #23
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Wayne, they go to sleep when there is no pressure on them. The only time you need to remove a battery is to replace it. The manufacturer claims the batteries will last 10 to 12 months if they are installed all the time so I'm hoping for a few years life by removing the sensors between trips.
Bill
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:07 PM   #24
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Wayne, they go to sleep when there is no pressure on them. The only time you need to remove a battery is to replace it. The manufacturer claims the batteries will last 10 to 12 months if they are installed all the time so I'm hoping for a few years life by removing the sensors between trips.
Bill
Good to know. Thanks. Marc
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:14 AM   #25
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3) Suggestion for Cargo Box for Hitch? Christmas trip includes full van with 6 passengers on a 5 day trek (stay with family not sleeping 6 in the van) so I know I'll need additional cargo room for the luggage. My old Suburban barely held it behind the 3rd row; and the AS has less room than that did.
I have a Stowaway 2 Max on a swing away mount and have been very happy with it. It is well made and quite sturdy. It swallows up to 16 cubic feet and 200 pounds of gear. The Stowaway's double walls provide enough insulation that it can even be used as an outdoor ice chest. (There is a drain plug.) I had to buy a $16 adaptor to convert from the factory trailer light plug to the plug on the Stowaway, but that was the only extra needed.

The swing away mount is very solid (a hitch stabilizer is included) and there are three separate locking devices to hold it in the closed position. One of those, a simple drop in pin, also holds the Stowaway in position when it is swung open. With the box swung open both of the rear doors open, but the right door can only open about half way. One interesting side note. Although the Stowaway is available with LED lights they are not recommended for use on Sprinter based vehicles. Apparently Sprinters, and other German made vehicles, are subject to a power leak that does not do good things for the LED lighting.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:03 PM   #26
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I can confirm the trailer lighting plug power leaks. I made a hitch rack to haul our recumbent trikes and added LED tail lights. There is a small amount of current on the plug that keeps two of the six LEDs on the tail lights lit at a low level at all times. I have to unplug the connector to get the lights out completely.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:19 PM   #27
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I had same issue with Led lights I added to motorcycle carrier. Had to unplug lights when not driving.
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:05 AM   #28
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Gearspace LED's do the same thing on mine.
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:13 AM   #29
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Has anyone put a meter to he plug?

Is everyone using a 7 to 4 adapter for hookup?

Ill put a multimeter to check mine later today, my 12v probe (the kind with ground clip and light bulb) didn't illuminate when checking, but it has 12v bulb, not led. The led will illuminate with as little as 3v.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:23 AM   #30
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Reference brake controller...I bought a Tekonsha Prodigy for install but the dealer told me my 2013 Interstate had an integral brake controller and did not need to buy one. Another guy with an EXT said the same thing and he has been doing a lot of towing!!!
Now I am confused???

I replaced my rear passenger glass quarter panel. Had to remove 3 rivets to swing out the window arms and re-rivet. Cost about $300 to replace. Still vacuuming glass.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:45 AM   #31
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Has anyone put a meter to he plug?

Ill put a multimeter to check mine later today, my 12v probe (the kind with ground clip and light bulb) didn't illuminate when checking, but it has 12v bulb, not led. The led will illuminate with as little as 3v.


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Confused....

Shows 11v with nothing on, key removed.

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Then 12.75 with lights on and engine running. (duh - alternator) same voltage present, with or without lights on.

Is this what it should be?
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:30 AM   #32
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1st I've heard of an integral brake controller. The interstates came partially prewired for a brake controller but I have a very late model interstate which didn't come with a brake controller so I had a P2 installed by dealer.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:48 AM   #33
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Hmmm....don't have my IS with me to check but should have voltage on brake control wiring when brakes pressed.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:52 PM   #34
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More on LED Trailer/Carrier lights

I also have two white LED lights on my carrier to illuminate the relocated license plate. During our recent west coast trip I noticed that the white license plate LEDS would strobe at a high rate when I pressed the brakes. First noticed it in the rear view camera and thought it was an anomy of camera. Then I checked it closer and found that sure enough -- using the brakes caused the strobing. I'm using a 7 to 4 pin adapter. This was just weird.

Here is a shot of my custom carrier we used for our 6 week trip in July and August -- over 8,000 miles Maryland to Seattle and returing via Canada.
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:14 AM   #35
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I have now heard from multiple sources that LED vehicle lights are not recommended for use with the MB Sprinter and for that matter most German vehicles. LEDs are okay for house lighting in the AI because they are not on the vehicle power system, but LADs are verboten for vehicle lighting and your license plate lights are plugged into the vehicle lighting circuit.

The reason I was given was there is a low parasitic voltage in the vehicle lighting system that is enough to light LEDs but not incandescent bulbs. But from your experience there is obviously something more going on that is not standard U.S. practice as well. The strobing you have mentioned would not be noticeable with incandescent bulbs but would show with LEDs because of their faster response rate. At least there is an easy fix for your license plate lights — simply swap the LEDs out for incandescent bulbs.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #36
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I wonder why they don't correct the parasitic voltage problem.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:47 AM   #37
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Since it is apparently common on German vehicles (even if manufactured in the U.S.) I suspect they have an engineering reason for its being there. The Germans are not noted for overlooking details.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:50 AM   #38
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I have now heard from multiple sources that LED vehicle lights are not recommended for use with the MB Sprinter and for that matter most German vehicles. LEDs are okay for house lighting in the AI because they are not on the vehicle power system, but LADs are verboten for vehicle lighting and your license plate lights are plugged into the vehicle lighting circuit.
The only LEDs that I installed on my Interstate are the dome lights/map lights on the overhead console in front. No problem with those.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:57 AM   #39
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I guess they could be using the current draw as a way to monitor for open circuits.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:11 AM   #40
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Lol and the drained battery as a way to close any open circuits (lol - sorry couldn't resist)

I can't imagine someone who isn't a "handyman - or woman) owning one of these! I've fixed more piddily stuff on this $100k van than I ever did on anything else I owned. But I wouldn't trade it. I think I put more value in the AS than I should - I'm sure the tow trailers are amazing.

Right now just setting under the awning at a folding Coleman table, working on Q4 projections. I can't imagine a better office anywhere in the world!

Sweet tea, sunshine, birds chirping - why didn't I do this 5 years ago?
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