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Old 05-02-2015, 06:20 PM   #15
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The right rear outer wheel does not always read on my system. That is one of those wheels that has an inner band mounted sensor and is the farthest away from my display unit. Dill sells an amplifier to fix this issue. It just came the other day and I will be installing it this week.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:58 PM   #16
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I too used the Dually valves and I used them as well on my prior Sprinter based B+ RV. I had mine installed by Les Schwab Tires and having explained that I wanted the inners properly lined up with the wheel grommets they did an impecable job for around 90 bucks. While I was at it I had them pull the front wheels and balance them as the 4 rears were all out of balance. (fronts were out too). I then installed the TST TPMS system and am very happy with the whole deal. I like the TST product because of the user changable batteries.
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:58 AM   #17
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I using the TST too works good but had problems with the seal on the battery door.
Did you balanced your wheels with or without the pass trough sensors?
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:02 PM   #18
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I using the TST too works good but had problems with the seal on the battery door.
Did you balanced your wheels with or without the pass trough sensors?
My wheels were balanced without the sensors because I had not purchased the TST system yet. I also used the standard sensors and not the pass thru's because I take mine off between trips to conserve the batteries. Going on two years now with original batteries.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:49 PM   #19
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I got the pass through and I leave am on now I am starting also to have to change batteries. I got about 50k miles with them.
Do you experience pressure increase when driving? If I put it up on 61 psi after a 1/2 hour I am at about 72 psi more extreme in the winter now I set them cold on 55 psi and end up around 62 to 65 psi on all wheels.
I was wondering about the extra weight on the valve special with the large pass troughs.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:50 PM   #20
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Do you experience pressure increase when driving? If I put it up on 61 psi after a 1/2 hour I am at about 72 psi more extreme in the winter now I set them cold on 55 psi and end up around 62 to 65 psi on all wheels.
All tires heat up slightly as you drive, due to constant flexing of the sidewalls among other things. This heat causes an increase in tire pressure. As long as the increased pressure is less than the maximum pressure the tire will hold then everything is copacetic.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:22 PM   #21
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I got the pass through and I leave am on now I am starting also to have to change batteries. I got about 50k miles with them.
Do you experience pressure increase when driving? If I put it up on 61 psi after a 1/2 hour I am at about 72 psi more extreme in the winter now I set them cold on 55 psi and end up around 62 to 65 psi on all wheels.
I was wondering about the extra weight on the valve special with the large pass troughs.
First put the tires back to 61 psi checking w/ a known good gauge. The pressure shouldn't increase 11 psi and shouldn't increase more in the winter. I suspect either your gauge or the TSTs are not giving accurate readings. Should always check tires when cold (not driven for an hour).
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:27 PM   #22
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I got the pass through and I leave am on now I am starting also to have to change batteries. I got about 50k miles with them.
Do you experience pressure increase when driving? If I put it up on 61 psi after a 1/2 hour I am at about 72 psi more extreme in the winter now I set them cold on 55 psi and end up around 62 to 65 psi on all wheels.
I was wondering about the extra weight on the valve special with the large pass troughs.
I do experiance an increase in temp and pressure as I drive. In fact the side of the coach exposed to the sun as well as the downslope side of the coach on a sloped roadway (most roadways) has more of an increase than the opposite tires. System seems very sensitive. Have had no range issues and in fact I sometimes pull a small trailer with my motorcycle in it and the system reads the trailer sensors fine too. Your 11 Lb increase is not unusual and I would stick to the 61 psi cold inflation pressure.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:49 PM   #23
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Maybe 11 psi increase is reasonable for the six ton beasts. I was basing my answer based on my Tahoe, only a 2.5 ton beast.
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:20 PM   #24
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I am on a trip to San Diego right now and 55 all around seams much better handing.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:54 PM   #25
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I am on a trip to San Diego right now and 55 all around seams much better handing.

I also have set mine to 55 psi all around based on the Michelin tire pressure chart for my measured weight. I typically see a 10 psi increase when the tires get hot from running at highway speeds. I'm using the TST flow-thru sensors and just changed all the batteries after one year of use when one sensor stopped working due to low battery.


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Old 05-05-2015, 09:04 PM   #26
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Yes sounds like my setup just I was not proactive as my first batterie failed about 4 month ago I only changed on since then I changed 2 more along it a yearly routine makes more sense then my "as it go" approach.
I tried a lot and now a positive chamfer and 55 psi with a 60 - 65 tuning psi on my TPMS is the best set up I also have Koni shocks in the rear.
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Old 05-09-2015, 06:43 AM   #27
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Regarding Protagonists valve extender solution, here is mine:
My rear outside factory stem is metal - so I felt comfortable using a metal extender. I used the 135 deg. extender from Camping World. Probably not as convenient as the 180 deg, but less mass (Mass + spinning = force) an idea which I liked. Inside factory stem is rubber (odd) and the extender was plastic - and totally worthless. Couldn't add check or air through the plastic extender. So, I took them off and threw them away. While on the road I simply put a cap on the short rubber stem. When its time to check the air I remove the cap and screw on 2" metal extenders. Find a large diameter two-piece ball point pen, whose inside diameter is such that it fits snugly over the cap. Use it as a 'socket wrench extender' to unscrew the cap. (push it on and turn CCW) Then find a bit smaller pen that can be used as a similar tool for installing and removing the metal extenders. (You lose a tiny bit of air during the one turn where the extender is pushing down on the valve core, but not enough to hurt anything.) When done checking and adding air, just reverse the above process. This jury rigged solution adds less than one minute to the time needed check air, and gives me a good chuckle each time I do it. Figured I would go to a permanent solution (metal stem and metal extender) when I have another (better) reason to remove the wheels.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:53 AM   #28
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I'm using new dually valve stems on my Unity from the The Tireman Tire-Man: Home Page in Ridgecrest CA. There were installed at a truck tire facility. From my experience, it's not if, but when dually extensions from Camping World will fail.
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