Draining Tanks

[windblade]

We purchased our new 2009 interstate at the beginning of 2010 and are still learning about the various systems. First, my drain hose has several pinhole leaks already. This is hard to understand, unless there is something sharp on the reel that is puncturing the hose. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I encountered a problem when I tried to drain the black tank today. The rocker switch to open the drain valve doesn't activate the valve, so I can't drain my tank (yikes!); also, the "open" light on switch does not illuminate.

[ben322]

On some of the Interstate models, there were screws that were abrading the reel hose. I would check the fuse for the drain valve but you'll need to see a Airstream dealer to have the reel hose replaced under warranty and they'll check for any interference.

[moosetags]

"Slinky" hoses are notorious for developing pin hole leaks. We had several go that way. I think that small abrasive material on the ground (rocks, sticks, etc.) can cause these holes. We switched to the Sewer Solution about three years ago and have never gone back to the 'stinky slinky'.

As far as your black tank drain valve being stuck. I didn't even know that they had such a thing as an electrically-actuated drain valve. As when any electrical function is not responding, check the appropriate fuse. This function is most likely 12 volt DC. Check the automotive type fuses in your converter box.

Brian

[ben322]

The AS Interstate built on the NCV3 Sprinter chassis has a built-in macerator with a power retractable reel so it winds up like a garden hose and is of similar size. They are also equipped with electricly operated tank valves with "open" indicator light. Ben

[solar-guy]

I had the same problem with my black water drain valve on my 2008 Interstate yesterday and found that the valve was installed touching the engine exhaust pipe, so the valve is now melted to the exhaust pipe and does not work (see post on this subject). My wife is going to call Airstream today and see if we can get any help via the warranty.

[solar-guy]

Originally Posted by solar-guy

I had the same problem with my black water drain valve on my 2008 Interstate yesterday and found that the valve was installed touching the engine exhaust pipe, so the valve is now melted to the exhaust pipe and does not work (see post on this subject). My wife is going to call Airstream today and see if we can get any help via the warranty.

As a further note I forgot to mention that my waste hose also has pinhole leaks I discovered while dumping the tanks yesterday....yuck!

[rv40]

We have exact same problems. Black tank won't open, hose has small leaks and lights don't work on grey and black tank switches. My question... Is there a way to manually open the black tank valve?

[TBRich]

Another way pin holes can delvelop in 3" drain hoses is birds. Yup...in some places—noteably, the Grand Canyon campgrounds — crows have been known to peck at drain hoses...so if you are somewhere that these pesky critters are making havoc, you might want to put your hose away between dump sessions.

[wayneskid]

Originally Posted by rv40

We have exact same problems. Black tank won't open, hose has small leaks and lights don't work on grey and black tank switches. My question... Is there a way to manually open the black tank valve?

From my owners manual:

"In case of electric system failure, there is a manual override on the electric dump valves located on each side of the valve. Use a flat head srew driver or an allen wrench to turn the override screw clockwise or counter clockwise according to side you access to open and close the valve. The direction is labeled on the valve."

Keep in mind that mine is a MY2010 Interstate.

Hope this helps,
Wayne

[ben322]

The valves are manufactured by Drain Master and the use of a 1/8" allen wrench will open and close the valve. The black tank valve is easier to access and according to Drain Master, if installed vertically does not require lubrication.

I actually had my black tank valve stick closed and of course, I didn't read the manual so I made an appointment with AS for service. Upon reading the manual I opened the valve manually and now it seems to work properly using the switch. I'm going to start exercising these valves periodically so I won't have to crawl under the van at the dump station :-)

[raddocc]

Originally Posted by ben322

The valves are manufactured by Drain Master and the use of a 1/8" allen wrench will open and close the valve. The black tank valve is easier to access and according to Drain Master, if installed vertically does not require lubrication.

I actually had my black tank valve stick closed and of course, I didn't read the manual so I made an appointment with AS for service. Upon reading the manual I opened the valve manually and now it seems to work properly using the switch. I'm going to start exercising these valves periodically so I won't have to crawl under the van at the dump station :-)

I have crawled under mine and I can't see the manual override bolt.

[russ240]

My 2012 AI had the same problem with the pinhole leaks almost from new (2nd or third dump). Don't know what caused it but the hose was replaced under warranty.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by russ240

My 2012 AI had the same problem with the pinhole leaks almost from new (2nd or third dump). Don't know what caused it but the hose was replaced under warranty.

Most likely cause is that you turned on the macerator pump while the red valve at the end of the discharge hose was closed. When the macerator pumps against a closed valve, the water has to go somewhere. The least little defect in the hose opens up quickly under that much pressure.

I did that exactly once, and water squirted out of several pinholes then. But as long as I remember to open the valve on the end of the hose before I turn on the pump, the pinholes don't leak at all, so I haven't bothered replacing the hose.

[UKDUDE]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Most likely cause is that you turned on the macerator pump while the red valve at the end of the discharge hose was closed. When the macerator pumps against a closed valve, the water has to go somewhere. The least little defect in the hose opens up quickly under that much pressure.

I did that exactly once, and water squirted out of several pinholes then. But as long as I remember to open the valve on the end of the hose before I turn on the pump, the pinholes don't leak at all, so I haven't bothered replacing the hose.

Another reason is allowing the hose to wind onto the reel when there are kinks in the hose. Wear a thick gardening glove while the motor draws the reel in, and guide it neatly onto the reel. A little tricky since the motor spins the reel too fast.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by UKDUDE

Another reason is allowing the hose to wind onto the reel when there are kinks in the hose. Wear a thick gardening glove while the motor draws the reel in, and guide it neatly onto the reel. A little tricky since the motor spins the reel too fast.

I find that right hand on the switch, left hand on the hose, and just bumping the switch on and off a bit at a time generally works. If the hose starts to jam, it's easier that way to stop it before it blows the fuse, and then you can partially unreel the hose again until you clear the jam.

[russ240]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Most likely cause is that you turned on the macerator pump while the red valve at the end of the discharge hose was closed.

No telling what the dealer may have done before I bought it but I know I have never closed that valve. Frankly, I don't really see why the valve is there. The only thing it can do is cause problems. In the winter closing it could result in a ruptured hose since you can never get all the water out of it. Leaving it open gives any expanding freeze a place to expand. The only thing it is preventing from leaking out is a bit of soapy water from the grey tank since I finish every dump that way. I just leave it open and let it drain/dry out.

I can say that no matter how careful I am the hose always binds up just a little before I get it all the way in so there is the possibility of it getting pinched. The replacement has been on there for almost 2 years though, it binds up just as much as the OE hose did and the replacement has never had a problem with a leak.

I do leave about 18" to 2' feet off of the reel. I find having that last little bit of play makes it easier to work the valve contraption into the compartment and perhaps prevents the worst of the binding. Maybe that modification to my practices has prevented the re-occurrence of the problem.