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Old 08-22-2016, 08:17 PM   #15
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I just tried unplugging my chassis battery under the driver footwell and found that it prevented unlocking with my key fob. I am unable to squeeze my 270# self between the driver door and my carport to unlock the door with the key blade so I guess I wont be unplugging mine.
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:29 PM   #16
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I just tried unplugging my chassis battery under the driver footwell and found that it prevented unlocking with my key fob.
Good to know, and thanks for the correction.

I must have mis-remembered that, because I could have sworn that the key fob still worked with the disconnect plug unplugged. But you know how it is; the more senior I get, the more senior moments I have!
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:33 PM   #17
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Good to know, and thanks for the correction.

I must have mis-remembered that, because I could have sworn that the key fob still worked with the disconnect plug unplugged. But you know how it is; the more senior I get, the more senior moments I have!
Seems to be my problem too protag but only since I turned 70.
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:11 PM   #18
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This will help
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Battery-Isolation-Manager-Manual-RevA.pdf (63.3 KB, 23 views)
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:13 PM   #19
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Seems to be my problem too protag but only since I turned 70.
Unfortunately, I'm living proof of the old adage, "Too soon old, too late smart." Especially the "too soon old" part.

Although, if I was feeling more defensive about my shortcomings, I'd point out that ever since I installed my Viper alarm system in early February 2012, I haven't been able to unplug the disconnect plug at all without setting off the alarm system, so that was a long time to remember how the disconnect actually worked, since I only ever used it for one month and then never again for 4 years.

But that's only when I'm feeling defensive. Right now life is good and I have no need to defend my lack of memory, so I won't point it out.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:10 PM   #20
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Unfortunately, I'm living proof of the old adage, "Too soon old, too late smart." Especially the "too soon old" part.

Although, if I was feeling more defensive about my shortcomings, I'd point out that ever since I installed my Viper alarm system in early February 2012, I haven't been able to unplug the disconnect plug at all without setting off the alarm system, so that was a long time to remember how the disconnect actually worked, since I only ever used it for one month and then never again for 4 years.

But that's only when I'm feeling defensive. Right now life is good and I have no need to defend my lack of memory, so I won't point it out.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:40 PM   #21
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Great stuff, thanks everyone!

So, it looks like the right answer for my situation is to leave everything connected and let the solar panel and BIM do their thing to keep all of the batteries happy (just don't forget to turn off the propane!). I don't need to add anything.
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Old 08-23-2016, 03:54 AM   #22
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On my 84 I have 400 watts of solar on the roof for the house batteries and seldom use my shore power converter. To keep the chassis battery from going to low I made this circuit to go on the battery isolator on the firewall. It uses a 2.5 amp PTC fuse and a diode to prevent reverse flow. If the voltage difference is to large the PTC fuse limits the drain from the house battery by increasing in resistance thus acting like a trickle charger.
The only problem is that it will not fully charge the chassis battery because of the diode voltage drop in my circuit and the battery isolator diode drop so it can only charge to 1.2 volts below the solar charging voltage.
If the chassis or house batteries get really low I have the jumper solenoid on a manual switch to tie all batteries in parallel or the stock method of the ignition switch. That circuit is in the second image.



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Old 08-23-2016, 11:40 AM   #23
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They make small solar panels that plug into cigarette lighters for that very thing.
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Old 08-23-2016, 12:09 PM   #24
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They make small solar panels that plug into cigarette lighters for that very thing.
Yes, but my concern was/is the quality of the charge controller built into those panels and if they could do more harm than good. I know first hand what happens when a cheap battery monitor/charger does its evil magic.

It's a moot point however because the good folks on this board have pointed out that the BIM + 100W solar panel in my '17 AI will take care of both sets of batteries automatically so I don't need to worry about it. This wasn't clear from the manual, so it's great to have input from the "veterans".
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:03 PM   #25
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I didn't want to leave you with the impression that the 100W panel alone is sufficient to maintain the house and chassis batteries). You may want to look over the math I did during my Solar/Battery upgrade. By my calculation (big variable is hours of direct light), maybe 45 - 70 days before the house batteries deplete to 50% DOD. If your rig has Service Bulliten SB 164 installed and you turn off the main house switch (which disconnects the parasitic standby draw from the Magnum inverter) then you are probably OK. However SB 164 has its own issues. I think most on this forum would say you need at least 200 Watts to accomplish what you are after.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post1806655
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:10 PM   #26
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On your original idea - you could not run an inverter directly off the solar panels - the panels would not supply enough constant current to power an inverter. You would have to trickle charge a battery from the solar and run the inverter off that battery to then run your battery charger to charge the chassis battery. It sounds like a bad joke, but there you go.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:47 PM   #27
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Great info and much appreciated.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:01 PM   #28
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I didn't want to leave you with the impression that the 100W panel alone is sufficient to maintain the house and chassis batteries). You may want to look over the math I did during my Solar/Battery upgrade. By my calculation (big variable is hours of direct light), maybe 45 - 70 days before the house batteries deplete to 50% DOD. If your rig has Service Bulliten SB 164 installed and you turn off the main house switch (which disconnects the parasitic standby draw from the Magnum inverter) then you are probably OK. However SB 164 has its own issues. I think most on this forum would say you need at least 200 Watts to accomplish what you are after.



I really only need the solar to keep the batteries charged enough to avoid problems for about 30 days max. If the stock setup will do that then I'm good. If not, then I might be investing in a second panel per your recommendation.
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