Broken Black Tank Fitting

[TN Princess]

While doing the NovaCool refrigator and freezer upgrades, I noticed this fitting (see photo 1 and 2) after removing the freezer. The toliet is on the other side of the wall to the left. The threads are showing from what appears as a split fitting. The other end goes to this valve (attaching on the left)(see photo 3), I think this is a vacuum brake valve for flushing the black tank. While insulating the area, I was sucessful in further breaking the fitting (see photo 4).

If this is not part of the black tank flushing sysytem, what is it?

What ever it is how do I repair? Is there a replacment fitting that screws into the black tank? Use JB weld? Plug the best I can, and don't use black tank flushing?

My Interstate parts manual does not show these parts...


Thanks for your help.

2017 Grand Tour Extended.

[Pahaska]

That is part of the flushing system.

Looks to me like you could easily unscrew the black winged connector to the broken fitting. The main problem, then, would be getting the remaining stub of the broken connector unscrewed from the tank. There may be enough sticking out to get an adjustable pliers on. If not, I would start searching my workshop for something tapered that I could jam into the stub and unthread it that way.

I bet if you called Airstream, they would send you a new elbow fitting. Wrap the new fitting with thread tape and carefully screw the new fitting in until it will mate properly with the black winged fitting.

Over the years with my four Airstreams, they have sent me a number of parts gratis.

[RxGuy]

Is your 2017 Grand Tour still under warranty?

[InterBlog]

Notice any stylistic similarities in the photo melange at the end of this post?

Lines separating from tanks was a big issue for the T1N Sprinter-based series of Interstates, and anecdotal reports suggest that many owners had this problem fixed under their initial new-purchase warranties. I still see examples of separations from time to time in the newer models, although it's usually with ABS pipe segments rather than a situation like what you've shown.

IMO, it happens because the plumbing (which was really taken straight from its rightful stick-and-brick application) is not adequately engineered to withstand road vibrations and bumps. Where the lines connect to the tanks, maximum fatiguing stress accumulates, and some connections eventually crack or separate entirely.

You list your rig as 2017, which means it is still under warranty, correct? I recommend that you take full advantage of it, because fixing this issue PROPERLY is a very labor-intensive job. You have to prevent the repair shop from responding in a lazy manner by putting a patch over the problem, because that will not hold (from your photos, it looks like someone may have already tried that with the messy white stuff; also, see my buddy's patch job in the photo below - this is a useless approach no matter how much goop is applied). When we fixed our gray tank, we had to dismount it from our vehicle entirely, which took a lot of time. Fortunately we were able to fix our black tank in situ. It's extremely important that the black tank does not leak through a broken vent or vacuum line (which it can do on the road via sloshing), because there are electrical components in the area.

We resolved our issue by adding flexible couplings throughout our plumbing system. That way, the segments bend rather than breaking when strained.

Here are a few blog posts for reference, as they might help to communicate the labor-related issues involved with this kind of repair: Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3 of the gray water repair, and here is the black / gray vent line repair post.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by RxGuy

Is your 2017 Grand Tour still under warranty?

I am lucky to be fairly close to a dealer, but even for me and if they can fix it while I wait, it involves much of a day driving 20 miles round trip to the storage yard, 38 miles round trip to the dealer, and waiting for them to fix it. For such a simple fix, all I need is the parts and a few minutes of my time. The hardest part would be getting the broken stub out.

In my case, the fuel cost would exceed the cost of the parts.

[A W Warn]

The fitting that is attached to the black tank is either a Camco "Tornado" or Valterra "No Fuss" tank wash system. These units are surface mounted and can be replace pretty easily. Just remove the screws/sealant and it pulls out of the tank.

The brass valve (air admittance valve/vacuum breaker) in the white pipes allows air to enter when water pressure is removed after flushing the black tank. It is must be mounted at an elevation above the top of the black tank. This does two things:
1. keeps sewerage from being siphoned out of the tank into the water hose
2. lets remaining water flow downward into the tank and/or out of the hose connector so that it does not freeze.

To repair:
a. disconnect the inlet pipe from the brass el fitting that is connected to the wash system.
b. unscrew the brass el. That el is an adapter, hose thread to pipe thread.
c. remove the screws holding the wash system from the tank, pull it out of the tank.
d. clean the tank surface.
e. install the new flush system (follow manufacturers' instructions)
f. reinstall existing materials in reverse order

You will need:
1. new flush system
2. sealant
3. pipe thread compound or Teflon tape.

[InterBlog]

In the OP's photo 1, perhaps I'm misinterpreting, but that plumbing assemblage appears pushed way back into the under-cabinet void space. The persistent problem with Interstates is that they are so small, with many parts difficult to access. So a plumbing repair that might be easier to do in a larger RV or trailer becomes a different ball of wax. Hence I urge caution to make sure the repair shop does not cut corners.

As another example of how confined space issues can cause snowballing labor issues with Interstates, when we had our propane tank replaced, it necessitated removing the galley kitchen and fresh water tank entirely. That was the only way to access the tank's hardware. Accessing a few bolts required a half-day's labor by the repair shop personnel (that was pretty much the only repair we did not attempt ourselves).

[A W Warn]

The part numbers are listed in the "Parts Book" on page IV-11, if you want exact replacements.

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...Parts-Book.pdf

or this:
http://airstreamsupply.com/Nozzle-ta...earch=%20flush

[TN Princess]

Pashaska,


That is my current plan. I wondering if the fitting inside the tank has a spray bar of some sort. I plan to contact Airstream on Monday.

thanks

[TN Princess]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

The part numbers are listed in the "Parts Book" on page IV-11, if you want exact replacements.

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...Parts-Book.pdf

or this:
http://airstreamsupply.com/Nozzle-ta...earch=%20flush

Are you talking about:
601441-02 black tank flush?

I saw this but didn't see a pic of the part.

Thanks for the info..

[TN Princess]

Originally Posted by RxGuy

Is your 2017 Grand Tour still under warranty?

I'm not sure, would like to know. I bought used in August 2017, original purchase was March of 2017. Is Airstream warranty transferable?

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by TN Princess

Are you talking about:
601441-02 black tank flush?

I saw this but didn't see a pic of the part.

Thanks for the info..

Yes.
See revision, added web link, in my prior post.

I think, not positive, the suffix number at the end of the main number is the color/function. One is black with a hose fitting and check, the other is white without the hose fitting. Otherwise they are the same part.

You can Google "no fuss tank flush" and find many videos showing how it functions.

one example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AZOG8qsoMQ

[TN Princess]

After further examination of the fitting, using flashlight and handheld mirror. I ordered this part http://airstreamsupply.com/Nozzle-ta...earch=%20flush . It looks as if the old fitting is glued into the tank and is about an inch deep before holes for washing the tank.. I will try to unglue the part and replace. I chose this flush fitting as the threaded portion looks similar to the current setup. Other brands used water hose fitting, which require some adaption to the current pipe fitting.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

I will post the results with pictures.

[TN Princess]

Using the link from "A W Warn", I order the above pictured fitting. I used a wood chisel and hammer to scrap the "caulk or glue" used for OEM install. I chipped just enough way, to grasp the internal spray head with needle nose pliers and remove. Smoothed the remaining glue with sandpaper. Made sure the hose would connect without twisting. Installed the fitting using silicone caulk as the directions stated, then used three self-tapping screw. Let dry for a day, then used pipe thread sealant connected and pressure tested. No leaks. See photos 5 and 6.

[TN Princess]

As to the buying used and Airstream warranty. I called Airstream, who told me, " yes, the warranty is transferable for Airstream workmanship. But not the installed appliances." For my 2017 there was no fee payment. Apparently some years a transfer fee is required.