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Old 03-21-2016, 11:14 AM   #1
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Bottom drawers coming out in sharp turns

Just had a big trip to Mexico with 2016 Airstream Interstate Grand Tour... The bottom drawers were opening very often in tight turns. Any advice how to fix those? It was driving me nuts.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:30 AM   #2
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Child safety latches
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:08 PM   #3
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Yup. Look for ones that can be stuck on with adhesive or minimal screws.


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Old 03-21-2016, 01:31 PM   #4
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I'd recommend the Rev-A-Lock Cabinet Security System. Here's a write-up on it:
http://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/invi...-modification/
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:59 PM   #5
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Magnetic release - that looks like a very interesting solution. Got to check it out. Really like the idea of the added security.

The advantage with marine catches is that brass and stainless steel will hold up to significant force. The finger trip latches are not ugly as what you see from the outside is only the finger hole. But, I guess no hole is even a better look.

Thanks for the recommendation. Pat
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:53 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=UKDUDE;1765510]I'd recommend the Rev-A-Lock Cabinet Security System. Here's a write-up on it:]

UKDUDE, awesome. This is a great solution.

Thanks for sharing.

Bob
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:01 PM   #7
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Is there too much weight, or shifting weight in the drawers?
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millionsaver View Post
Just had a big trip to Mexico with 2016 Airstream Interstate Grand Tour... The bottom drawers were opening very often in tight turns. Any advice how to fix those? It was driving me nuts.
If you're pulling enough G-force in a turn to have the drawers open, maybe you're taking the turns too quickly. I've had a wardrobe closet door open while in transit when a pair of telescoping flagpoles I had in the closet shifted against the door, but never had a drawer come open no matter how tightly I've turned.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:41 PM   #9
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Anything large and heavy, which can start to slide freely inside the drawer in a turn, will have a lot of momentum when it bangs into the back of the drawer front. Preventing this shifting of the drawer's contents should reduce the drawer opening unexpectedly IMO.
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:11 PM   #10
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I'm wondering w/o looking if there is an adjustment as some of my drawers are hard to open and have never opened on their own. Same w/ the overhead lockers which do have an adjustment to effectively make them harder to open.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:18 PM   #11
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In an emergency for drawers / cabinets coming open on curving roads use a bungy cord.

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Old 03-22-2016, 03:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKDUDE View Post
I'd recommend the Rev-A-Lock Cabinet Security System. Here's a write-up on it:
http://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/invi...-modification/
Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like a good solution for child-proofing certain doors/drawers, but it is (IMO) a bit awkward, being a two-handed operation which requires holding the magnetic key close to the latch with one hand, whilst using the other hand to pull open the drawer. Every time you want to open the drawer?

They also make a model ("RL" in stock number), with a different geometry, which permits defeating the latch when you want to use the drawer without the magnetic key (like during a camping weekend):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KYBAJ1K/...I3KF81PIE23XQN

A keyed cabinet lock is another possible way to keep the drawer closed while on the road again, but not sure if the geometry of the cabinet face frame will allow this lock:

http://www.amazon.com/FJM-Security-M...net+lock+keyed
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:52 AM   #13
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Thanks for the suggestions

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:54 AM   #14
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This topic has been discussed in the 20 footers thread of late.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...127845-41.html #568

My pot/pan drawer below the oven opened in transit and the slide latch pulled from the slides. The dealer repaired the delamination of the drawer but only increased the 1/2" screws to 3/4. Considering the thickness of the latch...not much teeth. I swapped those out for some small thru bolts.

I think it needs to be said that IMO the lateral forces for a trailer are probably different than an Interstate. Also to be fair, I think I caused mine as I caught the corner of a narrow curb/go-round down the street when leaving on the trip and that probably goosed the curb side up and pushed the contents toward the opposite side of the trailer. With a trailer this could easily happen in any ingress situation...less of a probability with an Interstate. At any rate, this will likely happen again, regardless of speed. I wasn't moving that fast.


My cause was slight curb bump, and contents momentum of contents in the drawer. Having a drawer liner to keep things in place in the drawer IMO may also help.

UKDUDE, any chance of a photo of your install?

I find this solution interesting but not sure if they'll work in my situation.


For now it's the KISS approach...twist to extend shower curtain. The end is hollow and the corner of the pull handle fits there well...actually does a pretty good job.


Like others on the 20 footers thread, I think the best solution is a $5 cabinet lock.



Thanks
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
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UKDUDE, any chance of a photo of your install?

I recommended this magnetic catch after seeing it at an RV show in Phoenix but haven't installed it myself. In my Interstate Lounge/Wardrobe I have just one lower drawer and the original catch is still very firm.


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Old 03-23-2016, 06:23 PM   #16
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We just had a large pots/pans drawer built in for our 2016 FC25FB. I was concerned that the drawer would be flying open when going around corners.

The guys at Ultimate Airstreams added an additional drawer lock/latch to prevent that from happening. So far it has worked well. There are no latches or exterior modifications, it's all inside on the back of the drawer take a look at the photos.
These are the standard drawer stays the Airstream uses.

IMG_2082.JPG IMG_2090.JPG IMG_2089.JPG IMG_2091.JPG.

Notice there are 2 drawer stays on the top drawer and 3 drawer stays on the pots and pans drawer. Our remodel guy Spencer said that each latch has about ten pounds of stay power. So three stays provide 30 pounds plus of holding power which has worked for us to keep the heavy drawer closed. There is room on the back of the drawer for several of these if you need more holding power.
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:18 PM   #17
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Thanks for the photos Terry and for updating your thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...fb-144271.html

Much appreciated.

Peter
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:23 PM   #18
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Peter I was going to day, don't drill. I have an idea. However I do like TerryC's and had been thinking about a similar approach at the front vs the rear.

Bob
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:19 PM   #19
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I added brass surface bolts to my "heavy" pots and pans drawer, needed especially with the big copper pan. Less hassle than the magnetic release and the polished brass looks nice. The drawer slides had broken when I bought it and my replacements did not have the detents to hold it close. I can post photos if someone wants to see them.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:12 AM   #20
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OK, Bob, I will hold off, but Terry's installation is a very exacting process which works only (IMO) because everything was fabricated square in a shop, with the back "drawer keep receivers" located precisely on that back carcass. I have not used these keeper units, but have had plenty of cabinet shop experience, so I would not want to have to install them at the back of the FC20 oven's lower drawer space, not with these knees and shoulders at any rate . . . !





See the next post from TerraYacht about surface-mounted brass bolts. As I said in the 20-footer thread, a bit funky perhaps, but I kind of like the off-handed F. U. comment to the Airstream factory:


"If you can't build it right, we are going to make the "fix" visible and funky!"





What is your idea, Bob?


PS -- LIS [ Life is short ] -- and the surface bolt fix is KISS and enables OTRA ASAP!
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