Black tank check valve

[bsedor]

Has anyone on this forum ever accessed this check valve? I have a 2015 GT and I have never been able to add water to the tank through this connection. My thought is that the in line check valve was installed backwards and I would like to reverse it.

Can someone tell me the best way to access it?

Thanks!

Bob

[bsedor]

Originally Posted by bsedor

Has anyone on this forum ever accessed this check valve? I have a 2015 GT and I have never been able to add water to the tank through this connection. My thought is that the in line check valve was installed backwards and I would like to reverse it.

Can someone tell me the best way to access it?

Thanks!

Bob

Correction, I have a 2016 GT. Fat finger syndrome on the keyboard.

[73shark]

I had the same problem when I tried to use the back flushing system for the black water tank. Turned out the check valve was installed backwards. Dealer fixed it. It's accessible w/ the slider fully open thru an access panel.

[bsedor]

So the access is actually on the passenger side?

Bob

[73shark]

Yes. The black water tank is actually above the floor and under the commode. You can see part of it sticking out under the curb side passenger seat if your floor plan is similar to mine. But I see now that it isn't so not sure how you's access the black water flushing check valve.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by bsedor

Has anyone on this forum ever accessed this check valve? I have a 2015 GT and I have never been able to add water to the tank through this connection. My thought is that the in line check valve was installed backwards and I would like to reverse it.

Can someone tell me the best way to access it?

Thanks!

Bob

Actually, the bath is on the street side on a GT, opposite of a 2011 lounge. Presuming the design has not changed from 2011 the flush valve is located just above where the hose is attached, about 18" higher. The pex pipe in mine takes a 90 degree turn up from where the hose attaches and goes about 18 inches to the valve, then 90 degrees down to the subfloor, then across to the bath.

The GT is likely plumbed the same but won't have to go across the floor. So the valve is likely behind or nearly behind the bath. Access it will require removal of whatever is in front of it as best you can. In my case it was by removing the microwave. In the GT the bath is on the same wall. You may be able to access it by removing the fridge but it would not surprise me if you cannot access it without removing the bath. Take a ruler and measure about 18" higher than where you connect the hose on the outside. That is likely in the vicinity where you may find it. Ask customer support as well to be sure.

[GETRIDAONE]

[QUOTE=bsedor;1809815]Has anyone on this forum ever accessed this check valve? I have a 2015 GT and I have never been able to add water to the tank through this connection. My thought is that the in line check valve was installed backwards and I would like to reverse it.

Can someone tell me the best way to access it?

I tried flushing the tank yesterday through the hose connection with no luck. If you remove the grille below the fridge you can see the two connections to the tank. There is one on top in the middle and one center at top towards the front. The lines disappear down behind the tank toward the inlet. There is no sign of a valve in that area ? I filled the tank with the flush valve several times and dumped it. The final fill was about 1/3 full and I went on a short ride to agitate what was left. It was coming out pretty clear on the last rinse.
The interesting thing was after disconnecting the water hose I still had water going to the toliet, sinks had no pressure but the toilet still had water coming to it ?

[gmillerok1]

[QUOTE=GETRIDAONE;1811588]

Originally Posted by bsedor

Has anyone on this forum ever accessed this check valve? I have a 2015 GT and I have never been able to add water to the tank through this connection. My thought is that the in line check valve was installed backwards and I would like to reverse it.

Can someone tell me the best way to access it?

I tried flushing the tank yesterday through the hose connection with no luck. If you remove the grille below the fridge you can see the two connections to the tank. There is one on top in the middle and one center at top towards the front. The lines disappear down behind the tank toward the inlet. There is no sign of a valve in that area ? I filled the tank with the flush valve several times and dumped it. The final fill was about 1/3 full and I went on a short ride to agitate what was left. It was coming out pretty clear on the last rinse.
The interesting thing was after disconnecting the water hose I still had water going to the toliet, sinks had no pressure but the toilet still had water coming to it ?

I'd call customer support and ask them how to access the flush valve.

I'm not sure I understand your problem. First, you say you tried flushing with no luck, but then you say you filled the tank with the flush valve several times and dumped it. This is not consistent. If you can attach a hose to the outside flush port (a standard hose connection), and you turn on the water, you should be able to go inside and open the toilet and hear water shooting across the tank. If you do, then it's working. Understand that the flush connections simply shoots water inside the tank to clean it from the hose connection. It does not actually flush anything except the crud off the walls and floor of the tank so it can be dumped through the macerator.

What I do is to attach the blue shower hose connection to the flush hose connection, turn on the cold or hot or both water from the shower using water from the fresh water tank, then dump the black tank. This rinses the black tank as it dumps. After the black tank is mostly empty (I say mostly, because it is not possible ever to be empty because the macerator is at the same level as the 3" hose, so it stalls out before the hose is completely empty). At that point, I open up the grey valve, but continue to flush out the black tank. About half way done emptying the grey tank, I close the black tank valve, but still let the flush connection water on and partially fill up the black tank (it works better with some fluid in it, for obvious reasons). When the grey is mostly empty, I close up the grey valve and shut off the water to the flush valve.

Although there is no harm in driving around with water in the black tank, it's not necessary if the flush sprayer is working. When I get home and put the van in it's hibernation mode till the next trip, I open up the hose connection on the flex-t adapter I installed between the macerator and the tank valves to empty the rest of the liquid out of the system. You'd be amazed of the amount of liquid that is in the 3" hose to the tank from the macerator back to the gate valves. This also keeps the macerator from freeze damage in the winter.

Most likely if the water pump was off, and the water was also not connected to the outside water inlet, and water still came out the toilet with the toilet valve open, there was residual water pressure in the pex line from the toilet valve to the water pump. There is no way connecting the flush hose has any bearing to the fresh water line. They are not connected. Next time, hold the toilet valve open for 15 or 20 seconds. The water should eventually stop because water has to come from either the fresh water tank or the outside connection. If both are turned off, there's simply no other place for it to come from!

[GETRIDAONE]

[QUOTE=gmillerok1;1811992][QUOTE=GETRIDAONE;1811588]

I could not get water to the spray heads in the tank by attaching a water hose to it. I think I have the same problem as the OP & 73shark in that the check valve is in backwards. I think you got confused when I used flush valve when I should have said the pedal on the toliet to fill the black tank with water. You were right about pressure in the line, I just didn't think it would run that much water out after being disconnected from the hose.
I dread taking it to be fixed for fear of them messing something else up while repairing it.

Thank's for the reply

[bsedor]

[QUOTE=GETRIDAONE;1812164][QUOTE=gmillerok1;1811992]

Originally Posted by GETRIDAONE

I could not get water to the spray heads in the tank by attaching a water hose to it. I think I have the same problem as the OP & 73shark in that the check valve is in backwards. I think you got confused when I used flush valve when I should have said the pedal on the toliet to fill the black tank with water. You were right about pressure in the line, I just didn't think it would run that much water out after being disconnected from the hose.
I dread taking it to be fixed for fear of them messing something else up while repairing it.

Thank's for the reply

I feel your pain about taking it to the dealer because then something else gets broken. I have had mine it twice for recalls and there were problems both times! Plus the dealer is a 3 hour drive each way.

Bob

[gmillerok1]

[QUOTE=GETRIDAONE;1812164][QUOTE=gmillerok1;1811992]

Originally Posted by GETRIDAONE

I could not get water to the spray heads in the tank by attaching a water hose to it. I think I have the same problem as the OP & 73shark in that the check valve is in backwards. I think you got confused when I used flush valve when I should have said the pedal on the toliet to fill the black tank with water. You were right about pressure in the line, I just didn't think it would run that much water out after being disconnected from the hose.
I dread taking it to be fixed for fear of them messing something else up while repairing it.

Thank's for the reply

If it's in warranty, and a dealer not too far away, I'd let them handle it.

If not, then about all you can do is estimate where the valve would be (from the outside, it has to be somewhere near and above the hose connection) and go inside and try to figure out what you have to remove to access it, or call customer support and ask them. Those are your only options. Removing the fridge is likely the only option you have. Removing the bath/shower is a big job, and one the dealer will not want to do. Been there, done that.

Or take a trip to Jackson Center.

[Dsquare]

On my 2016 Grand Tour, the black tank flush check valve was installed backwards. Since there was no dealer close by, I repaired it myself. The check valve is about 18" above the floor on the street side behind the refrigerator and freezer. I removed the freezer (below the refrigerator) by taking out a few screws and sliding it out and forward to gain access. There are PEX connectors, so if you don't have the crimp tool, there are replacement fittings at Home Depot. The check valve was fine, just backwards.

[GETRIDAONE]

[QUOTE=Dsquare;1814318]On my 2016 Grand Tour, the black tank flush check valve was installed backwards. Since there was no dealer close by, I repaired it myself. The check valve is about 18" above the floor on the street side behind the refrigerator and freezer. I removed the freezer (below the refrigerator) by taking out a few screws and sliding it out and forward to gain access. There are PEX connectors, so if you don't have the crimp tool, there are replacement fittings at Home Depot. The check valve was fine, just backwards.[TE]

From what I can see removing the freezer would require taking the door off then the four screws holding it to the cabinet. The freezer without the door is 19 1/2" deep and the width across aisle from cabinet to cabinet is 20 1/2". I would assume wiring connections where made and then is was put in the space. That's a lot of aggravation before you can even see the check valve. If I just get completely bored one day I might fix it or waste a day and have the dealer fix it under warranty

[bsedor]

Originally Posted by Dsquare

On my 2016 Grand Tour, the black tank flush check valve was installed backwards. Since there was no dealer close by, I repaired it myself. The check valve is about 18" above the floor on the street side behind the refrigerator and freezer. I removed the freezer (below the refrigerator) by taking out a few screws and sliding it out and forward to gain access. There are PEX connectors, so if you don't have the crimp tool, there are replacement fittings at Home Depot. The check valve was fine, just backwards.

This is the information that I was hoping for. Thanks!

[GETRIDAONE]

Originally Posted by Dsquare

On my 2016 Grand Tour, the black tank flush check valve was installed backwards. Since there was no dealer close by, I repaired it myself. The check valve is about 18" above the floor on the street side behind the refrigerator and freezer. I removed the freezer (below the refrigerator) by taking out a few screws and sliding it out and forward to gain access. There are PEX connectors, so if you don't have the crimp tool, there are replacement fittings at Home Depot. The check valve was fine, just backwards.

I found a vacuum breaker valve along with the check valve. Both of these valves appear to be installed backwards. The supply line is on the right and the bottom line goes to the tank. You can see the water flow arrow on the valve going away from the tank. I don't know why you would need the vacuum break anyway as the check valve would prevent anything from the tank coming back out. I think the plastic float in the vac valve would hang up and cause a leak before the spring in the check valve would. I am going to replace the vacuum valve with just a 90 elbow so I won't have to change the Pex tubing.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by GETRIDAONE

I found a vacuum breaker valve along with the check valve. Both of these valves appear to be installed backwards. The supply line is on the right and the bottom line goes to the tank. You can see the water flow arrow on the valve going away from the tank. I don't know why you would need the vacuum break anyway as the check valve would prevent anything from the tank coming back out. I think the plastic float in the vac valve would hang up and cause a leak before the spring in the check valve would. I am going to replace the vacuum valve with just a 90 elbow so I won't have to change the Pex tubing.

From your pictures I can't tell which line goes to the black tank. Is you back flush not working? Have you checked to see if you are actually getting a back flush in the black tank? It is easy to check. Just hook up a hose to the back flush inlet in the hose reel compartment, turn on water to this hose to start back flush. Then go inside bath and open toilet valve and you should be able to hear the water rushing into the black tank right under the toilet. If you do then the system is working properly.


- - Mike
2013 Lounge EXT on 2012 Sprinter

[toskeysam]

The vacuum break is likely an attempt to provide a code-compliant apparatus that would protect a potable water system hooked up to supply the flush water. A single check valve does not meet a code requirement for this service. The combination comes close.

[toskeysam]

Correction. The codes I refer to are directed at residence and industrial applications. Jurisdictional authority comes under the supplier/purveyor so I guess it can push into "best practice" for an RV. If anyone knows otherwise please let me know.

[GETRIDAONE]

Originally Posted by toskeysam

The vacuum break is likely an attempt to provide a code-compliant apparatus that would protect a potable water system hooked up to supply the flush water. A single check valve does not meet a code requirement for this service. The combination comes close.

Boxster,. No water to the spray head in the tank was what started this.

If the check valve hadn't been installed backwards on the vacuum / anti siphon valve and the water supply plumbed to outlet instead of the inlet it would have been spraying water everywhere behind freezer.

I agree about the code requirement but there is no fresh water to contaminate when the hose is disconnected.

[jgeurin]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. My valve was installed backwards too, and I have just been living with it until today - filling up buckets of water and pouring them down the toilet to flush out the black tank. I read through the thread, pulled out the microwave (I have the 2013 Interstate Lounge) and reversed the valve. It was clearly marked as to the proper flow direction, by the way, just installed backwards. Now it works like a charm.