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Old 05-22-2018, 02:34 PM   #1
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2009 22' Interstate
St. Paul , Minnesota
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Black and Gray Dump Hose Replacement

Hi All,

I just received my replacement dump hose from Clean Dump. My original hose has developed several pinhole leaks. The replacement seems easy, but is there anything I should be aware of before I make the replacement, and are there any videos out there on this subject?

2009 AI.

Thanks.

Tim
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Old 05-22-2018, 02:40 PM   #2
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I have not replaced ours (yet), so cannot offer any advice on how to do it. But when I do I am going to make it about 3' shorter. I have never needed to full length, and the last couple of feet jam when rewinding and are tough to pull out.
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Old 05-22-2018, 03:34 PM   #3
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Ours was replaced under warranty as some of the mounting screws protruded and cut the hose. In Jackson Center, the dropped the entire unit and replaced the hose that way but I would probably extend the hose all the way out and look at the connector before dropping the spool.
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Old 05-22-2018, 04:10 PM   #4
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It is possible to replace the hose without dropping the exterior box, but it is a severe PITA because there isnít much working space going in from the side. Take a look and see what you think.

Airstream has a write up on replacing the hose by dropping the box. We called and they emailed it to us.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:22 PM   #5
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2009 22' Interstate
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Black and Gray Dump Hose Replacement

Thank you everyone for all your advice. I got the job done in the driveway today. It took three hours from start to finish, which surprised the devil out of me; I thought it would take much longer. I know this would have taken 1/2 hour if someone, anyone, would have let me use their lift, but no such luck. I considered doing this through side opening, but after a quick examination I realized that wasnít gonna happen. Hopefully Iím good for another 9 years. Thanks again.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:55 PM   #6
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Could you please post the procedure that you used, and hints you discovered - it is something we'll all have to do at some time.
Thanks
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Could you please post the procedure that you used, and hints you discovered - it is something we'll all have to do at some time.
Thanks

Titus, I just had to make this replacement "on the road" therefore I did not have the tools that I would normally have available at home. I am attaching a crude drawing which is also an "on the road" effort.

My AS is a 2017 with about 25' of sewer hose which is wound onto a drum through a small opening from the outside through a fairlead roller arrangement which has an opening of about 4" x 2". The 1" plastic hose is "armored" by a thin blue plastic spring embedded in the wall. The inside diameter is 3/4".
The hose is generally pliable when warm but becomes extremely stiff when cold - this is when the problems occur in releasing and retracting the hose and the factory installed ball valve.

I was recently in high altitude and cold Colorado when I realized that there were leaks in the hose when the pump was activated. One at the forward attachment next to the ball valve due to bending of the hose during final stowage of the valve with ultimate cracking of the hose at that point. The other was deeper in the system and could not be seen from the outside.
A call to the nearest AS dealer was discouraging since they could only see me in 6 weeks! So, I decided to make a field repair.

I could not "drop the box" since it appears to be riveted in place so I made the repair through the side of the vehicle. Attached is the crude drawing of the cross section of the system as I saw it. The red line represents the drum.

The hose is attached to a 3/4" elbow as it exits the macerator pump which allows it to be directed around the storage drum in the correct direction for storage and release. It is then secured tightly to the drum by two Adel clamps spaced about 3" apart and then continues around the drum to exit the side of the vehicle through the fairlead arrangement.

The lead Adel clamp creates a big problem if the hose is "released" to its full extent because it causes the hose to bend backward upon itself and either obstructs or cracks the hose wall.

The fix is accomplished by first removing the fairlead apparatus so that you can get small hands inside. Release the hose to its full extent and remove the two Adel clamps; unscrew the hose clamp at the hose barb elbow and cut off the hose. Remove any damaged hose.

Replace the hose onto the hose barb elbow and replace the Adel clamps. Retract the hose approximately one to two feet and mark the hose at that point with electrical tape, or similar. This should indicate the "NEVER RELEASE FURTHER" point so that the Adel clamp will never crimp the hose again.


Retract the hose onto the drum and cut off the last 36" so that the drum motor does not get overwhelmed by the length and volume of hose. Add whatever fixtures you want to make stowage and use easy. I used threaded PVC devices so that I didn't have to deal with PVC cement on the road.


Hope this helps.
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:18 AM   #8
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Excellent write up, itís the cold weather and sharp bends causing all the hairline cracks on the hose near the T handle ball valve, I just chopped off another 12Ē section on our last winter trip.
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I am attaching a crude drawing which is also an "on the road" effort.

cut off the last 36" so that the drum motor does not get overwhelmed by the length and volume of hose.

Hope this helps.
PILOTBIT - YES, this helps tremendously. Drawing may be crude BUT it is just as clear and effective as a pic. Will implement tohe warning markings and make 1st pass at shortening.

Quote:
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I just chopped off another 12” section on our last winter trip.
AIR99 - I had been thinking of cutting off a little at a time but still hesitant, until now. I know I have never needed that much length, with the AI being so flexible in how close to park near hookups, so will chop off some to start (betw 2-3ft) and eventually work my way to optimal length
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