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Old 06-13-2018, 08:25 AM   #29
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Hi

You probably can fit group 27's in the battery compartment without chopping metal. They will get you to 100AH.


Bob
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:44 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

You probably can fit group 27's in the battery compartment without chopping metal. They will get you to 100AH.


Bob

Thanks, heading down to Detroit on Friday, should have no problem finding a couple batts there......
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:01 AM   #31
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Per the Lifeline manual the batteries might be salvageable by subjecting them to a 'conditioning' or 'equalization' charge. The Magnum can do the equalization charge. I suspect this seldom works, since I seldom see it referenced is this forum. I tried it with my batteries before replacing them, and it didn't help to any noticeable amount.
Our experience as well Ö Lifelines have a good rep, but not born out by our experience Ö difficult to get warranty considerations in many parts of the country - even with Airstream dealers!
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:53 AM   #32
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Hi

Ok, so what does a normal "battery test" do?

They pump a charge voltage into the battery and make sure it charges at the right voltages ( = no shorted cells ). They then dump the charge into a load and make sure it delivers the "full amps" it is supposed to ( = who cares in an RV except for the starting battery ). What they don't normally do is let it sit for two weeks to check self discharge. They also don't run a small load on it for a couple of days to check capacity.

Bottom line - yes they can catch some stuff with the testing. What they call a "good battery" may only be 80% of good to you. What they call a "bad battery" may still be fine for your use.

Bob
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Old 06-17-2018, 11:00 AM   #33
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Costco

Costco has best warranty on batteries and sell Interstate RV/marine batteries. I bought 2 for my Excella, after a year, one wouldn't hold a charge and I returned it for full refund, no questions asked.
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Old 06-17-2018, 01:57 PM   #34
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Buy the Lifeline batteries and toss the charge controller. Get a good 4 stage charge controller that can equalize ( ie: https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-BB12...attery+charger ). Set the controller to flooded or whatever matches the batteries best. 2 group 24s in parallel should get you around 160 AH.
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:15 PM   #35
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What would be the optimal scenario if budget was not the limiting factor? Lithium and controller? Fyi I only have 1 solar panel currently. I often feel like if i try temporary bandaid replacements I end up replacing almost every year. Looking to add the 2 more panels like the 2018 model.

Just curious as i have followed advanced rv and they run fully on lithium. I know I am not heading down the advanced path but would love to see what others have done.
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:25 PM   #36
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Check-out all of the YT RVíers who have done lithium (batteries, not the pharaceutical). Reach into your pocketbook and pull out several thousand dollars and VOILA! Eternal power. Had you jumped on the YT bandwagon sooner you might have gotten them free. Too bad. Patreon or maybe a Go Fund Me page?
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:26 PM   #37
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Lithium would be nice, but expensive. Lead gets the job done. Solar is essential as I hate the noise of the generator, although I carry one for emergency and for running the AC. I hardly ever plug in to shore power, so I didn't bother replacing the charger.
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:33 PM   #38
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What would be the optimal scenario if budget was not the limiting factor?

Boy did you open up the flood gates with that statement. I am working on a system that has 10KWH rated lithium batteries, 1400 Watts of Solar, and a 5000VA Inverter/Charger. It's cost is north of 20K USD. If that doesn't put you off PM me and I would be glad to discuss.


Thanks,
Pat
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:05 PM   #39
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I am eyeing the lithium also...my Boondocker 4 stage controller will work fine on the Battleborn models...just waiting for the price to come down.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:23 PM   #40
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I am a little confused... Why are some saying to series 2- 6v batteries?
Even 120 Amp Hrs at 12 v is not as much power as
2- 12v @ 80-95 Amp Hrs (each).

So where is the advantage?


Thanks,

-Marc
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:07 PM   #41
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We may have that solution. 400AH of Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries in the form of two 200AH units, a 3,000 watt hybrid inverter, 650 watts of solar on the roof of our trailer, a BMS, a battery monitor, a color display, and the appropriate circuitry that allows the TV to charge the trailer while driving while also ensuring the TV never drains the trailer's somewhat-higher-voltage lithium batteries - all Victron, designed and installed by AM Solar.

Yep, it was expensive, but the utility of our solution has been impressive and AM Solar did a great job. (If you can DIY, you can save half the cost. ) Anyway, with our updated system, our batteries no longer limit how long we can dry camp.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:16 PM   #42
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What would be the optimal scenario if budget was not the limiting factor? Lithium and controller? Fyi I only have 1 solar panel currently. I often feel like if i try temporary bandaid replacements I end up replacing almost every year. Looking to add the 2 more panels like the 2018 model.

Just curious as i have followed advanced rv and they run fully on lithium. I know I am not heading down the advanced path but would love to see what others have done.
I personally think the rage about going total electric is a bit over stated. First of all, you'd need at least 800 amps to make it worthwhile, and likely double that, to be really genset free. But that brings up another issue, and that's recharging the batteries. Solar on an AI won't get you there if you try to use the AC for more than six hours a day. So its either genset or a second alternator, and run the MB engine for a few hours. It seems to me that if you have to one or the other, what is the point of so much amperage in the first place. May as well use the genset if you have to use a genset to recharge anyway At least, that's my thought.

I started another thread on this same topic before I realized this one had started, but it seems that these are the options:

1. Replace the AGM's. Cost:$600.00-700.00. And have barely power to keep the fridge going overnight or so (my 2011 has two 80amp batteries).

2. Put more AGM's in. Double the cost above for double the power, and try to figure out where to put them.

3. Go Lithium-lite (300 amps or less). Replace the AGM with a 100, 200, or 300 "drop in" replacement, such as that sold by Battleborn, Lifeblue, or Relion. BMS included. Simple install. Cost: $1000.00-3500.00. With three solar panels, should be enough to run the fridge forever without a recharge.

4. Go Lithium heavy (>300 amps). Replace with Victron System using AMSolar (most expensive, in the range of $4,000.00 on up, or Elite Power Systems, around $3500 for 400 amps on up. If you go this route, you'd probably want to add the cost of labor and a new 2000+watt inverter-charger (another $1600.00 or so).

Upgrading solar seems fairly straightforward. Two to three 100 watt panels+Victron Charge controller.

I'm considering Option 3-with 300 amps, and upgrading to three panels and a new solar charger. It's not worth it to me to add the extra amps to use the AC for at most 3 or 4 hours and then have to recharge the batteries using the genset, and I'm not to found of the idea on a second alternator running all the time or idling the MB engine for a hour or two either.

If I need the ac or microwave, I'll just fire up the genset. If I've missed anything, please let me know.
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