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Old 02-21-2013, 10:35 PM   #15
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FYI The "generator" in the previous post is a GoalZero Yeti 1250. The capacity is 1250Wh. (watt hours not watts). It's widely available for $1400 without the solar panels, $1800 with. In either case, it comes with a roll cart for easy movement. It looks very well built and quite versatile.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:46 PM   #16
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73 Shark ... did the BIM end up fixing your battery/charging/solar panel issues? I'm getting ready to take my bus in and wanted to provide my dealer with all the information possible.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:08 AM   #17
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The latest info that I've got is that they replaced the BIM and still have relay clicking rapidly and batteries discharging w/ no known load. So no progress to date.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:51 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73shark View Post
The latest info that I've got is that they replaced the BIM and still have relay clicking rapidly and batteries discharging w/ no known load. So no progress to date.
Relay clicking rapidly…
I'm completely at a loss. Relays usually click rapidly because they're trying to come on, but there's not enough power to the electromagnets, so the switch itself keeps clicking back into the "off" posiiton before being drawn partly on and the electromagnet giving out again. A clicking starter motor because of a dead starting battery is the best (and loudest) example of this that I can think of.

But why the BIM would do that, no idea.

Batteries discharging with no known load…
How is your inverter/charger set? I've found out by trial and error that on my Interstate, it's possible to shut off the DC power at the disconnect, and still have AC power to televisions, refrigerator, and microwave with the inverter/charger set to "auto/invert" and the remote-control panel also set to "auto/invert." So, I now make sure that when I put my unit into storage, the inverter/charger is set to "charge only" or "off" as well as having the disconnect switched to "off." That's the only way I've found to power off ALL house systems.

(Note, power to the microwave just means the green lights on the panel come on for the clock, not that you can cook anything.)

Since I discovered that and always switch off the inverter/charger, my rooftop solar panel has not experienced any more problem keeping the house batteries at 100% charge no matter how long it sits in storage.

However, the carbon monoxide detector and LPG detector might still be on. I haven't checked those, but as safety devices, they might bypass the disconnect switch. I so, the draw is low enough the solar panel keeps up with no trouble.

I also had to add a small dashboard solar panel that plugs into a 12v outlet to keep my main engine battery charged up, thanks to the drain imposed by my Viper alarm system.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:43 AM   #19
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Here are links to what I see at the solar panel monitor and the clicking relay under the back seat when my system is acting up.
solar panel meter - YouTube
circuit board with light clicking on and off - YouTube
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:08 PM   #20
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What were the load conditions? Sunny out? Battery disconnect Off? Inverter Off? Shore power Off?

Mine never sound like that. The duration was either longer or extremely short.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:07 AM   #21
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It only does it when it is sunny. Battery disconnect on (I don't ever turn it off). Inverter off. This was plugged into shore power, but it does it regardless of plugged in or not. Next time it happens I'll try turning the disco and the inverter off and on and see if it affects it. So far the only way I've found to stop it was to cover the solar panel with a piece of cardboard. I keep the fridge on all the time. Turning various lights and fans on and off does not seem to effect it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:57 AM   #22
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That's the one common area between us is that the BIM only clicks when the sun is charging the system.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:59 AM   #23
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Latest update from dealer is that Jim Parrett (Airstream) said that it was the solar panel controller. So we'll see when they get it in if that does fix it. Dealer did say that the solar panel is now maintaining charge on both batteries which it wouldn't do before even when on shore power.

In the meantime, I've got a Florida trip lined up and will probably go before they get it in.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:30 AM   #24
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Mine is in the shop now. They have two parts coming for it, one is the solar panel controller ... I can't remember what the other one is. The parts are a due in on the 1st, I told them I need it back by the eighth fixed are not. We will see.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:47 AM   #25
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Here are links to a couple of Precision Circuits docs for this BIM. There is a lot more going on in this device than I suspected.

Brochure: http://precisioncircuitsinc.com/Docu...anagerRevD.pdf
Owners Manual: http://precisioncircuitsinc.com/Docu...geManualX2.pdf

Hope this helps someone!

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Old 04-11-2013, 08:40 PM   #26
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The Precision Circuits Battery Isolator Manager (BIM) is actually made of two discrete components although you can't tell that from what they call an owners manual. The actual relay contactor is a Trombetta 648-1251-102 Contactor. Mine on a 2013 EXT Lounge is actually mounted seperatly unlike that drawing shown in the BIM owners manual. The contactor
is switched by the Precision Battery Isolation Manager elctronics module. That module is a solid state potted device about the size of a cigarette pack.

The Solar Controller is also a small solid state potted device about the size of a cigarette pack. I suspect these ultra compact components are not that rugged and do occasionaly fail in weird ways. They are just replacable consumable devices that can't be repaired.

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Old 07-10-2013, 08:49 PM   #27
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They replaced the Photo-Voltaic Control Module. Part #PVCM25D and that took care of the problem. No more relay chattering and the solar panel doesn't charge 'til the coach batteries get down to 12.4V
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