Balky battery monitor....

[toskeysam]

Well....I finally got around to doing the hard reset on my newly installed Magnum Remote and battery monitor. The numbers are a bit more believable now, but it still looks like it is out of kilter. I head back to the shop in a couple months and this is not a show stopper.....so I will just be aware of battery voltages for now. My new Lifelines are performing FANTASTICALLY. The strange thing now is that I have not seen a single amphr from my solar panel for a month now. Been plugged in most of the time, but it is a bit out of the ordinary to see zero input. Maybe those new batteries are not asking to be charged as much now. Will watch it all just the same.


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[73shark]

Might want to unplug it and run a TV or frig to see if the solar is working.

[toskeysam]

Will try the refrigerator drain in a few days. Gonna give the SOC a chance to stop "Thinkn"...... I did just look at amphrs in on the charge from my shutdown time today. It indicated 470 amphrs input. Yeah right. Double my battery capacity? I don't think so. BTW... I definitely fall into the school of thought that it is much easier to drop the back panel to access the power systems, versus removing the couch. It took me about 30 minutes to get in there, do the reset, and put it back together. Looks like I will be spending more time in there when we get back home......ugh!


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[lewster]

I had one in 'thinkn' mode for a week before it decided to start reading.

Are you sure that the polarity of the twisted orange/blue shunt wire is connected to the proper shunt terminals with the polarity correct?

[toskeysam]

Lewster...I will check before I call Magnum for help.


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[lewster]

Originally Posted by lewster

I had one in 'thinkn' mode for a week before it decided to start reading.

Are you sure that the polarity of the twisted orange/blue shunt wire is connected to the proper shunt terminals with the polarity correct?

Sorry for the redundancy! It has been a long day and I wasn't 'thinkn' too well myself.

[toskeysam]

If weather permits at my location tomorrow, I will pull the panel again to check the twisted pair wiring. Also peeking at solar hookups since it seems to have gone silent on me. Sure wish I had a battery disconnect in this baby. Do not like pulling that 200 amp fuse on a hot line......
Also contacted Magnum tech support to see if they have any additional advice.



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[gmillerok1]

I upgraded my 2011 Interstate with the Magnum MMS1012, the ME-BNK battery monitor kit, the ME-RC remote and the temperature sensor.

I obtained my MMS1012 from Airstream while waiting around at their facility. Their cost was cheaper by about $100.00 or more than anywhere else. I doubt you could buy one from a dealer at the same cost because the dealer will probably sell it for MSRP.

In any event, it did not come with the temperature sensor, which costs another $30 or so. They apparently buy them in bulk as an OEM as it had no instructions either.

Installation was a bit tricky because I wanted to place the ME-BNK to covers all loads, which meant placing it inside the battery compartment. There was plenty of room to do so, but it was tedious running the cables and mounting it inside the box. The MMS1012 unit mounted in the same location that Airstream started mounting them in the fall of 2012 when they started using these units. The ME-BNK was placed just below it on the floor.

The install was straigthforward except for the ME-BNK. The MMS1012 comes with two ports-one for "Remote" and the second for "Accessories". The instructions refer to plugging the RJ-11 from the ME-BNK to the "Network" port. There is no such labeled port on the MMS1012, so I presumed the "Accesories" port was the port it needed to be plugged in to. After a few failed communications tests, I tried using the supplied duplex adapter to the "Remote" port, and it worked. So a heads up to anyone that the "Network" port and the "Remote" port are one and the same on the MMS1012.

The ME-BNK worked flawlessly, first placing a float charge, and doing it's "Think'n" thing, until the full charge was reached and then went in standby mode.

Finally, a heads up with anyone who has an Interstate that does not fully charge the batteries while driving down the road, or if the house battery is not being keep fully charged while plugged in to AC. Check the connections at the chassis battery compartment and the isolator. The battery isolator has one red cable the runs to a connector that is placed next to the positive side on a black bus in that compartment. You have to remove a bolt to remove the bus. There are about 4 or 5 connections there. Check the bolts for tightness. My Interstate would not charge while driving-and it was a loose bolt on the connection on the bus that was the issue. I also noticed that the battery connections on the house batteries were only hand tight. I suspect that's the way they've always been. While I did the ME-BNK install I removed the top battery to inspect it (no easy feat for a guy who had rotator cuff surgery two months ago). Airstream figured out the battery box's poor design in the lounge models and changed it in later models so it will be easier to check for those that own later model Interstates.

[MILATV]

Help: where do I start to get this fixed? Others have noted my disappointment of < 12 hrs battery, but this AM takes the cake.

Been plugged into 30 Amp for three months, only operating fridge and fan on occasional says to air out van.

Pulled out this AM for 7 day trip and house battery dropped from 14.1v on 30amp to 10.1 when unplugged.

Totally frustrated.




Mike via Mobile

[wayneskid]

Originally Posted by MILATV

Help: where do I start to get this fixed? Others have noted my disappointment of < 12 hrs battery, but this AM takes the cake.

Been plugged into 30 Amp for three months, only operating fridge and fan on occasional says to air out van.

Pulled out this AM for 7 day trip and house battery dropped from 14.1v on 30amp to 10.1 when unplugged.

Totally frustrated.

Mike via Mobile

Sorry to say it but it sounds to me like your house batteries are toast!

[lewster]

AGREED! Your batteries are clearly not holding charge. I would get back to the dealer ASAP and have the batteries replaced. Many have had problems with dealers leaving new units on their lot with discharged batteries for extended periods, which is a great way to sulphate the batteries and ruin their charge retention capacity.

BTW, this is a dealer issue and NOT a battery warranty issue, as it has everything to do with neglect, which is not covered by warranty.

[gmillerok1]

I think it could and likely is another issue rather than the batteries such as poor connections, bad transfer switch, or just plain old mis-wiring. While I was waiting around Jackson Center, at least one 2014 model owner brought his new unit in for repair with electrical issues. One problem they found was a bad transfer switch that was keeping the batteries from getting a charge and the second was a mis-wired battery meter that was causing some sort of electrical cutout issue. My bet is that the batteries are not the issue, rather, if history is any indication, the transfer switch is bad or something is not wired correctly and the batteries are not getting the proper charge, even though they say they are fully charged when connected to AC, when in reality, they are not getting a charge at all-or a full charge. While I agree it could be the batteries, my money is that it is likely something else that was not done correctly when the unit was produced.

Take it to a dealer. They should be able to confirm the batteries are either good or bad or that the wiring is in fact the issue. Please let us know the outcome.

Originally Posted by lewster

AGREED! Your batteries are clearly not holding charge. I would get back to the dealer ASAP and have the batteries replaced. Many have had problems with dealers leaving new units on their lot with discharged batteries for extended periods, which is a great way to sulphate the batteries and ruin their charge retention capacity.

BTW, this is a dealer issue and NOT a battery warranty issue, as it has everything to do with neglect, which is not covered by warranty.

[MILATV]

That is what I was afraid of; 4.5 hour one way trip to dealer - and I've had the vehicle just over a year now so I'm not sure how Dave Arbogast RV will feel about replacing them. I was hoping of a better way to resolve this than a camping trip to Troy, Ohio.

It has been an issue since my first outing, but I run the generator, and hope for better luck next time. I don't think they ever lasted more than 24-36 hrs. (mostly just fridge & interior lights - maybe an hour of TV)

Anyone know of a battery tech line or anything I can call to walk me thru troubleshooting before 9 hour road trip & a tech telling me that I need new batteries?

[lewster]

Originally Posted by MILATV

That is what I was afraid of; 4.5 hour one way trip to dealer - and I've had the vehicle just over a year now so I'm not sure how Dave Arbogast RV will feel about replacing them. I was hoping of a better way to resolve this than a camping trip to Troy, Ohio.

It has been an issue since my first outing, but I run the generator, and hope for better luck next time. I don't think they ever lasted more than 24-36 hrs. (mostly just fridge & interior lights - maybe an hour of TV)

Anyone know of a battery tech line or anything I can call to walk me thru troubleshooting before 9 hour road trip & a tech telling me that I need new batteries?

If you have Lifeline AGM batteries, their number is 1-909-599-0596

[gmillerok1]

Any battery shop can test the batteries.

If the problem is the connections, it's not hard to fix-and certainly not worth the 9 hour round trip. If you are not comfortable doing it, you can have any battery shop check it for you.

Here's the way.

To check the isolator:

1. Remove the back panel by removing the cover from the velcro tape and removing the screws on either side.

2. The isolator is the weird looking thing mounted on the curbside panel. The battery connections are on the top. Make sure, with a wrench, all are secure. If you really want to check it correctly, check with a voltmeter and see how many volts are being delivered to the isolator with the engine running. It should be 14+ volts-which should be delivered to your house batteries. If it is less than that, then most likely something else is wrong-like the connections on the other end of the positive cable are not be secure.

3. Replace the back panel unless you are going to do the next step.

To check the battery connections on the other end of the isolator:

1. Remove the flexible cover in front of the driver's seat floor. Below it, there is a panel, and underneath that is the chassis battery. Remove the panel by removing the screws and place it aside.

2. Looking at the battery, the positive side is on the right. Remove the bolt that holds the black bus that is tucked just to the rear-side of the battery and pull it up to expose the connections. Check the connections on the bus and battery terminals and make sure they all are tight.

3. Replace the bus and re-bolt it to the positive terminal, and replace the panel and flexible flooring. Then, you may want to check the volts being delivered with the engine running back at the isolator again. If the bolt was loose to the cable, you may have solved the problem simply by tightening it.

You may also want to check the tightness of the terminals on the house batteries. Your unit has a newer (and much better design) by opening the rear of the box by removing the screws, and pulling the pan out that holds the batteries (presuming yours is a lounge model). Check the terminals, and put it back and replace the panel.

I would bet you that you will find a loose terminal on the battery bus, or isolator, or both (if you are lucky and it's not some other wiring issue).

If you find all connections are tight, and 14+ volts at the isolator with the engine is running, then it's probably a trip to the dealer for you-or Jackson Center-to get it resolved.

I will post some pics later this evening that will help as well.


Good luck!

Originally Posted by MILATV

That is what I was afraid of; 4.5 hour one way trip to dealer - and I've had the vehicle just over a year now so I'm not sure how Dave Arbogast RV will feel about replacing them. I was hoping of a better way to resolve this than a camping trip to Troy, Ohio.

It has been an issue since my first outing, but I run the generator, and hope for better luck next time. I don't think they ever lasted more than 24-36 hrs. (mostly just fridge & interior lights - maybe an hour of TV)

Anyone know of a battery tech line or anything I can call to walk me thru troubleshooting before 9 hour road trip & a tech telling me that I need new batteries?

[toskeysam]

Ok...just got the word from Magnum. To reset the readings, I need to reset the Sense Module. Will give you the results when I do that.


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[gmillerok1]

See pics attached if you are interested in troubleshooting this issue yourself.



For that matter, it would be a good idea to check these periodically as well.

Good luck and let us know the outcome.

[lewster]

That's great; to deal with chassis battery issues, but a Magnum inverter needs ALL power removed to perform a hard re-set (and that means a complete disconnect from the positive DC power source). Also, all power must be removed from the ME-BMK sense module to re-set that.

Airstream should also be ashamed of themselves for leaving a veritable rat's nest of wiring (so elegantly displayed in your photo) on their 'premium' products!

[toskeysam]

I have made the "rats nest" comment many times to my spouse. Makes me madder the more I think about it.


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[gmillerok1]

LOL! And that's AFTER I cleaned them up and zip tied them as best that could be done without a complete re-wire!

Originally Posted by lewster

...
Airstream should also be ashamed of themselves for leaving a veritable rat's nest of wiring (so elegantly displayed in your photo) on their 'premium' products!