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Old 07-07-2014, 02:33 PM   #15
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Any battery shop can test the batteries.

If the problem is the connections, it's not hard to fix-and certainly not worth the 9 hour round trip. If you are not comfortable doing it, you can have any battery shop check it for you.

Here's the way.

To check the isolator:

1. Remove the back panel by removing the cover from the velcro tape and removing the screws on either side.

2. The isolator is the weird looking thing mounted on the curbside panel. The battery connections are on the top. Make sure, with a wrench, all are secure. If you really want to check it correctly, check with a voltmeter and see how many volts are being delivered to the isolator with the engine running. It should be 14+ volts-which should be delivered to your house batteries. If it is less than that, then most likely something else is wrong-like the connections on the other end of the positive cable are not be secure.

3. Replace the back panel unless you are going to do the next step.

To check the battery connections on the other end of the isolator:

1. Remove the flexible cover in front of the driver's seat floor. Below it, there is a panel, and underneath that is the chassis battery. Remove the panel by removing the screws and place it aside.

2. Looking at the battery, the positive side is on the right. Remove the bolt that holds the black bus that is tucked just to the rear-side of the battery and pull it up to expose the connections. Check the connections on the bus and battery terminals and make sure they all are tight.

3. Replace the bus and re-bolt it to the positive terminal, and replace the panel and flexible flooring. Then, you may want to check the volts being delivered with the engine running back at the isolator again. If the bolt was loose to the cable, you may have solved the problem simply by tightening it.

You may also want to check the tightness of the terminals on the house batteries. Your unit has a newer (and much better design) by opening the rear of the box by removing the screws, and pulling the pan out that holds the batteries (presuming yours is a lounge model). Check the terminals, and put it back and replace the panel.

I would bet you that you will find a loose terminal on the battery bus, or isolator, or both (if you are lucky and it's not some other wiring issue).

If you find all connections are tight, and 14+ volts at the isolator with the engine is running, then it's probably a trip to the dealer for you-or Jackson Center-to get it resolved.

I will post some pics later this evening that will help as well.


Good luck!




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Originally Posted by MILATV View Post
That is what I was afraid of; 4.5 hour one way trip to dealer - and I've had the vehicle just over a year now so I'm not sure how Dave Arbogast RV will feel about replacing them. I was hoping of a better way to resolve this than a camping trip to Troy, Ohio.

It has been an issue since my first outing, but I run the generator, and hope for better luck next time. I don't think they ever lasted more than 24-36 hrs. (mostly just fridge & interior lights - maybe an hour of TV)

Anyone know of a battery tech line or anything I can call to walk me thru troubleshooting before 9 hour road trip & a tech telling me that I need new batteries?
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:52 PM   #16
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Ok...just got the word from Magnum. To reset the readings, I need to reset the Sense Module. Will give you the results when I do that.


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Old 07-07-2014, 06:56 PM   #17
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See pics attached if you are interested in troubleshooting this issue yourself.



For that matter, it would be a good idea to check these periodically as well.

Good luck and let us know the outcome.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:46 PM   #18
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That's great; to deal with chassis battery issues, but a Magnum inverter needs ALL power removed to perform a hard re-set (and that means a complete disconnect from the positive DC power source). Also, all power must be removed from the ME-BMK sense module to re-set that.

Airstream should also be ashamed of themselves for leaving a veritable rat's nest of wiring (so elegantly displayed in your photo) on their 'premium' products!
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:00 PM   #19
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I have made the "rats nest" comment many times to my spouse. Makes me madder the more I think about it.


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Old 07-07-2014, 09:44 PM   #20
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LOL! And that's AFTER I cleaned them up and zip tied them as best that could be done without a complete re-wire!


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Airstream should also be ashamed of themselves for leaving a veritable rat's nest of wiring (so elegantly displayed in your photo) on their 'premium' products!
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:21 AM   #21
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Fuses fuses fuses..... while rooting around in the power box under the couch. I have replacement fuses for all of the blade fuses in the RV, or so I thought. I saw the two bolt-down fuses in the box and figured it would not hurt to have replacements for those as well. There does not appear to be consistant information on these guys. The fuses are 200 amp fuses, one of the part numbers is for a 125 amp fuse, the wiring diagram calls out a 125 amp fuse in both locations. Anyone else see this as well? Fuses are cheap, but if they stepped it up to avoid spurious blown fuses, it would be nice to update documents (and labels) also. Did I miss something?
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:10 AM   #22
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If you are talking about the barrel shaped fuses in the bolt-down metal holders, they are called class 'T' fuses and are generally used for inverter installations. Some OEMs use a flat style 'ANL fuse, but the class T fuse is instantaneous and will handle a surge of 10KA.

These are not easy to find, but I do stock them in sizes ranging from 120A thru 400A.

Drop me a PM if you can't find them locally.
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:20 PM   #23
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Interesting things happening with new battery monitor. I did the reset as directed by Magnum. Everything zeroed out....then I watched as my amphrs I/O kept growing in the positive direction. That was with the shore power disconnected, solar showing ZERO input, and the refrigerator running!!!! WTF!!!!!! I give up!!!!!!!!!!!!


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Old 07-24-2014, 08:57 PM   #24
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Interesting things happening with new battery monitor. I did the reset as directed by Magnum. Everything zeroed out....then I watched as my amphrs I/O kept growing in the positive direction. That was with the shore power disconnected, solar showing ZERO input, and the refrigerator running!!!! WTF!!!!!! I give up!!!!!!!!!!!!


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Was it in "think'n" mode?
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:04 PM   #25
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Lewster...it has never made it out of Think'N mode. I guess I should give it time to "reconsider" now that I did successfully get a reset. One good thing I can say.....those brand new Lifeline batteries HOLD A CHARGE very well. Granted, that was not part of this thread....I just had to tell someone
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Lewster...it has never made it out of Think'N mode. I guess I should give it time to "reconsider" now that I did successfully get a reset. One good thing I can say.....those brand new Lifeline batteries HOLD A CHARGE very well. Granted, that was not part of this thread....I just had to tell someone
Thanks! Your secret's safe with me!

As you (and most folks around here) know, I'm a big fan of Lifeline AGM batteries. A couple of years ago, I was moving my storage area and came across a couple of whits Lifeline battery boxes. I regularly use the empties for storage, as they are very durable, double wall cardboard....great for very heavy items.

So I move a bunch of stuff and see these 2 boxes where they shouldn't be and I am wondering just what I stored in them? I go to move one and it's really heavy....sort of what a battery weighs. But of course, it couldn't be a battery, as it would have been in storage for over 8 months!

On opening the box, I found a brandy new Lifeline GPL-6CT 300 amp/hour golf cart battery, and also found it's twin in the next box. EUREKA, I have found treasure!!!!! Over $800 worth of batteries just sitting there forgotten. But of course, they won't be much good as they have been sitting on the shelf for over 8 months....they must surely be discharged by now!

After removing them from the boxes and adding a series connection for 12VDC, I test the batteries and guess what? They read 12.8 VDC on my Fluke meter.....100% charged!!

They now reside in my service van, getting their full charge from the 500 watts of GS-100 panels that I have on my roof.

They surely DO hold their charge well!!!!
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:14 PM   #27
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Sounds like a positive example of you get what you pay for.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:37 PM   #28
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Glad the comment had no negative connotations. :-))


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