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Old 01-21-2014, 05:44 PM   #15
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Tried that test protag and with disconnect switched off tv's do not come on. My invertor (magnum) control panel does have an off position which is where I set mine when storing. I'm wondering if my drain is from the detectors as Shark suggests.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:33 PM   #16
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I also have been trying different schemes to find power drains. When I turn of the coach battery disconnect...the antenna amp is off, LP detector is off, TV's are completely off. Have not noticed if the CO and smoke detectors are impacted. The CO is connected to 12v, but not sure if it loses that with 12v disconnect..... I seem to remember it is also the low voltage alarm so that seems unlikely. Like I have heard before....I sure wish AS would release a wiring schematic!!! This switch-hunt is driving me nuts.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:34 PM   #17
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Tried that test protag and with disconnect switched off tv's do not come on. My invertor (magnum) control panel does have an off position which is where I set mine when storing. I'm wondering if my drain is from the detectors as Shark suggests.
Your Magnum works differently than my Tripplite in that regard, then. Good to know for future questions in a similar vein.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:07 PM   #18
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12V Interstate Standby Power Consumption

Relative to this thread -- just how much power does the Interstate 12V "Coach" system draw when not in use?

I added a net battery current monitor when I upgraded the solar system. The measured standby current draw on my rig is -0.4 Amps. It does not seem to vary if I have the coach battery switch on or off. The only thing I can determine that goes off is the propane gas detector that only draws a specified 70mA (0.07 Amps).

To confirm this I researched each component on the 12V Coach side and came up with a max calculated load of 0.5 Amps. I had to estimate a few components since I couldn't find the exact values. But anything with electronics or LCD display takes some small amount of power in the 0.1-0.2 watt range.

The 0.5 Amps calculated is consistent with the 0.4 Amps load I'm measuring.

If you have the original solar controller set up the load is a bit lower by about 24mA (0.024 Amps). So what is the major contributor to this parasitic load?

It's the Precision Circuits Inc. Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) that is specified to draw 4 watts. That's a constant 0.333 Amp load on your batteries that can't be turned off with any switch or circuit breaker.

This works out to a 10-12 AH depletion of your batteries every day. You can then understand why your batteries will go flat in a few days to a week if they aren't charged by solar or an AC plug.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:47 PM   #19
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Good to know.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:11 AM   #20
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Wow, thanks Boxster. You just cleared up a question that has been bugging many of us for a while.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:57 AM   #21
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Thanks Boxster! Still a real drag we cannot kill the drain, but at least my frustration level has gone down a few points. Now I can focus more on enjoying the ride, and a little less on "Where is it all going?"
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:37 AM   #22
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Thanks from me too, Boxster. I had previously asked my local Airstream dealer about it, and they had (supposedly) contacted Airstream support - and I never did get any meaningful answer.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:03 PM   #23
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One of the best investments I have made so far is a "real" battery monitor. I can see just how much is going into my battery and coming out. I have found that there is a .3amp drain even when the battery switch is off and the triplight charger is set to charge only mode. Way up north here the solar panel has a hard time. keeping up with the drain, and we have many days when we dont see the sun at all. As a result I need to plug mine in for about 48 hours every 2 weeks. To give you an example, right now the solar monitor panel (the factory one) says we are at 100% and 12.8 volts, my battery monitor says we are at 12.8 volts but at 85% because we are 26 amp hours down from full. The monitor I got from AM solar in Springfield Or. and in fact the first of march I am going back and having them mount two 105 watt panels on the roof. I installed the Battery Monitor myself withe their kit the hardest part was running the cable the rest was fairly easy with the instructions that came from AM solar.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:22 PM   #24
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Good job. Folks at AM Solar are the best.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:41 PM   #25
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I have only one starting battery and it is under the driver's feet. I need to replace it. Are all batteries alike or do I need to look for a good, better best battery? What brand and model should I get? I have a 2010 Sprinter on a 2008 chassis.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:22 PM   #26
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I have only one starting battery and it is under the driver's feet. I need to replace it. Are all batteries alike or do I need to look for a good, better best battery? What brand and model should I get? I have a 2010 Sprinter on a 2008 chassis.
I believe the starting battery is a Group 49 AGM. I have no idea what brand is best in Group 49 AGMs; If Lifeline makes one, that's what I'd go with. If not, I'd shop around for (1) highest cold cranking amps; and (2) lowest self-discharge rate. In that order.
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:55 PM   #27
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Protagonist, In regards to the battery disconnect, yes I can turn on the TVs even if the disconnect switch is OFF( and no engine power/shore line power) as long as the Inverter is ON. So your theory of "120vAC is not switched off by the 12vDC main disconnect, and neither is the inverter/charger itself" is correct on mine. Mine is a 2014 AI Ext.
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:52 PM   #28
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Where oh where is the wiring diagram.....my 2013 Interstate.....the Inverter will not come on with the 12volt disconnect off....neither will the TV's. As expected......
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