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Old 09-13-2018, 10:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by txntravlr View Post
Alex - what did you use to mount the Leifheit rack? (I actually have one of those laying around I had bought for a rental condo, but decided renters would destroy!) I don’t know exactly what lurks beyond the fiberglass in the bath, so have yet to be brave enough to drill into it!
TXNTRAVLR - The LEIFHEIT rack is mounted with 2 SS screws that go through TOGGLER anchors on the fiberglass. First, after removing the 3-compartment soap dispenser, I had the existing 4 holes to fish thin wiring and get a feel for any lateral & vertical obstruction. After many minutes of doing that and not getting any "bites" or "snags", I then used my Fluke temp gun & handheld thermal image cam that I borrowed from a friend who works for water district. I did this just to confirm location of black & grey vents - after chilling the rv overnight with A/C in full blast, then filling the black & grey water with hot water - the thermal image confirms that those vent pipes are where the AI manual says they are. Then opened up the access door under rear tv and stuck an automotive mini-cam probe I borrowed from an auto mechanic friend just to confirm again no obstructions there. Even did the physical fish wire test again from the acess door location.

It's pretty safe back there for my MY 2018 - YMMV. But even without the hi-tech tools, the careful wire fishing would've been enough for me. The most important thing is drill holes in progressive sizes, start with smallest bit, then step-up 1 bit at a time and put a depth lock on drill so you don't punch through. Check behind hole after every bit. And I followed AS practice of cutting the pointed tips of the screws they used inside for mounting into f-glass.

AS did not use anchors, just screwed direct into f-glass for support. I bored a bigger hole so I can use TOGGLER plastic anchors for maximum support, to make sure the rack can support the weight of multiple heavy wet towels.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:50 PM   #30
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TXNTRAVLR - The LEIFHEIT rack is mounted with 2 SS screws that go through TOGGLER anchors on the fiberglass. First, after removing the 3-compartment soap dispenser, I had the existing 4 holes to fish thin wiring and get a feel for any lateral & vertical obstruction. After many minutes of doing that and not getting any "bites" or "snags", I then used my Fluke temp gun & handheld thermal image cam that I borrowed from a friend who works for water district. I did this just to confirm location of black & grey vents - after chilling the rv overnight with A/C in full blast, then filling the black & grey water with hot water - the thermal image confirms that those vent pipes are where the AI manual says they are. Then opened up the access door under rear tv and stuck an automotive mini-cam probe I borrowed from an auto mechanic friend just to confirm again no obstructions there. Even did the physical fish wire test again from the acess door location.

It's pretty safe back there for my MY 2018 - YMMV. But even without the hi-tech tools, the careful wire fishing would've been enough for me. The most important thing is drill holes in progressive sizes, start with smallest bit, then step-up 1 bit at a time and put a depth lock on drill so you don't punch through. Check behind hole after every bit. And I followed AS practice of cutting the pointed tips of the screws they used inside for mounting into f-glass.

AS did not use anchors, just screwed direct into f-glass for support. I bored a bigger hole so I can use TOGGLER plastic anchors for maximum support, to make sure the rack can support the weight of multiple heavy wet towels.


Well, I’m not a good fisher - let’s start with that! Next, my patience (& attention span) is obviously much shorter than yours — look, SQUIRREL!!! 🤣 I’m a bit more of a “let’s cut here and see if it’s right” kind of person - who the. Has to hire a professional to clean up the damage I caused when trying to fix something!

I think I’ll just leave the box in the closet and walk away... definitely more work than I was hoping to gain a little hang-dry space!
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:42 PM   #31
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Well, I’m not a good fisher - let’s start with that! Next, my patience (& attention span) is obviously much shorter than yours — look, SQUIRREL!!! �� I’m a bit more of a “let’s cut here and see if it’s right” kind of person - who the. Has to hire a professional to clean up the damage I caused when trying to fix something!

I think I’ll just leave the box in the closet and walk away... definitely more work than I was hoping to gain a little hang-dry space!
TXNTRAVLR - You read my mind, I was originally gonna say, if you like to fish, sit long hrs. in the middle of a lake just waiting for 1 bite, then you get the feel for the wire-fishing behind the f-glass. Then I just realized you have the GT meaning the bath is on the R/S, the same side where a little more wiring also goes through. Compared to my Lounge where minimal wiring is on that side. I only have to worry about the Firefly panel, overhead compartment led wiring, power vent, tv coax & splitter.

But you should at least check. It may be an easier task for GT. Unfortunately, not sure anyone here has drilled as many new screw holes as I did in their GT bath to be able to help us. You may be the 1st GT to do so, and me the 1st Lounge. A little patience goes a long way, more than just skill. Yeah on this one, it's measure 10x, check 5x, and still hope I only need to cut 1X and not cut something else.
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:55 AM   #32
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I am going to try VHB tape. If you can use it to attached solar panels to the roof, then it's a good first try experiment

https://www.leifheit.co.uk/fileadmin...eitung-001.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Tape-RP25-...vhb+tape&psc=1
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:07 AM   #33
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I am going to try VHB tape. If you can use it to attached solar panels to the roof, then it's a good first try experiment

https://www.leifheit.co.uk/fileadmin...eitung-001.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Tape-RP25-...vhb+tape&psc=1
I used left over VHB tape to hold the shelf structure in place while I marked/drill the holes... I almost left it with just that... could not remove it... ended up undoing the supports, leaving the top rail in place and drilled the additional holes I needed then... so yeah, VHB tape should do the trick just fine
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:25 AM   #34
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I am going to try VHB tape. If you can use it to attached solar panels to the roof, then it's a good first try experiment
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Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
I used left over VHB tape to hold the shelf structure in place while I marked/drill the holes... I almost left it with just that... could not remove it... ended up undoing the supports, leaving the top rail in place and drilled the additional holes I needed then... so yeah, VHB tape should do the trick just fine
VATOM - Yes, I think VHB would work. I think the 3M automotive exterior moulding tape would work too. I only hesitated to use it, because I read a couple of threads where their command tape un-mounted from the f-glass walls due to the extreme summer heat. But I think VHB would not. If anything, you just need to be very sure the location is exactly where you want to before you stick it on coz it will be very hard to remove. I suggest having someone hold it up, so you can spot from a distance if it looks ok. Maybe use a level, then mark a line with tape or pencil. Update us if it works well.

WACHUKO - funny you guys mentioned the solar. I was gonna pm you to ask what you used to mount the 4th solar panel. Getting parts ready for winter project. I did manage to find it in your "Journey" thread after going back thousands of posts. Boy, that thing is like an Encyclopedia of AS AI Mods & Upgrades. I would be clueless and spending many more hours without your docs. Thanks again!
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:50 AM   #35
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V...

WACHUKO - funny you guys mentioned the solar. I was gonna pm you to ask what you used to mount the 4th solar panel. ...
Clean the area around the mounting foot with alcohol and let it dry. Use VHB tape on the bottom of the foot (AMSolar feet comes with it already in place). Press hard and mount the foot, one at a time. After 24 hours, use blue tape around the foot in a square so the Sika221 will overlap the foot. Apply a think coat of Sika221 over the foot to the border of the tap. Remove the tape.

That's pretty much it. For my front panel, I used two extra feet on the front side back to back to make it even stronger. Properly applied, there's no way the panel will ever come off as the VHB tape plus the Sika221 probable would require over a ton of pressure to come off.
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Old 09-14-2018, 11:31 AM   #36
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Clean the area around the mounting foot with alcohol and let it dry. Use VHB tape on the bottom of the foot (AMSolar feet comes with it already in place). Press hard and mount the foot, one at a time. After 24 hours, use blue tape around the foot in a square so the Sika221 will overlap the foot. Apply a think coat of Sika221 over the foot to the border of the tap. Remove the tape.

That's pretty much it. For my front panel, I used two extra feet on the front side back to back to make it even stronger. Properly applied, there's no way the panel will ever come off as the VHB tape plus the Sika221 probable would require over a ton of pressure to come off.
GMILLEROK1 - As a rookie, glad I didn't have to figure this out myself. Your instructions make it easy enough. I kinda wondered how strong VHB really is in context of using for solar panel. But I figured it's being used widely for flex panels like mine, so it must be strong enough = a ton of pressure is amazing
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:47 PM   #37
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GMILLEROK1 - As a rookie, glad I didn't have to figure this out myself. Your instructions make it easy enough. I kinda wondered how strong VHB really is in context of using for solar panel. But I figured it's being used widely for flex panels like mine, so it must be strong enough = a ton of pressure is amazing
Well, it may be a bit less. But in my case, the tape alone in theory can handle 100 lbs per inch before it will shear, and adding the SikaFflex221 adds even more because that stuff is VERY difficult to remove. When I did my upgrade, I had to mechanically scrape Sikaflex off with a putty knife from various places, and frankly, it's very hard to do. For my front panel, I had 12 square inches, so that's around 1200 lbs of force with the tape alone. Not even hurricane Florence would bother it.

The back two panels have 800 lbs (2sq in. per foot) with the tape alone.

I'm sure if the feet were screwed in the screws would pull through the sheet metal if that much force was applied.

For what it is worth, this is how AMSolar does all their installs.
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:13 PM   #38
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3 Mirrors inside AI bath all done

Day#4 - Trapezoidal 3rd Mirror cut & installed

The 3rd mirror has been cut to size/shape. It is a trapezoidal shape to fit above the sink area. Minimal tweaking on this area as it is pretty flat to begin with. The hardest part is deciding at what angle to cut mirror to maximize area but not start to overlap the curved portion going up to the ceiling. It is an unusual cut but after I installed it, I am glad for it's weird shape because it adds visual interest in a small area. Big rule in interior decorating small spaces - K.I.S.S. + texture & shapes & mirrors. Acrylic mirror was used for max safety against breakage.
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Faucet re-installed. This faucet is a residential gooseneck MOEN. This was chosen by my wife because it is the same line used in our previous house. It's materials, quality, & finish is so much better than the AI issued pullout. As a couple, we just hate pullouts because we had a bad experience. The pullout faucet eventually loosened from constant use inside the stem. The leaking caused big hidden damage to our master bath. So that was the very first thing to get removed from AI bath days after I took delivery. It does come with an external counter mounted pullout which we did not need to use here. So a call to MOEN and they supplied me with a custom plug to permanently disable the pullout line.
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Overhead pics trying to show the overall effect of the 3-mirrors to enhancing the illusion of spaciousness inside when door is closed. I do not feel as claustrophobic inside anymore.
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Door has been re-installed. The door is only supported by a skinny piano hinge with 5 screws each on the door side and frame side. They use 3/4" wood screws, which were already pulling out from just normal use of no more than 6 camping trips. At the rate its going, that whole thing would be off its hinges in less than a year. I tried to lengthen the screws to 1". Not grabbing good enough. So I went FULL LOCO on it and removed the hinge. Drilled another 12 holes total (6 on door, 6 on frame) . Then replaced the 3/4" & 1" screws with 1-1/4" screws.

CAUTION - Make sure the new screw holes are staggered on the opposing door/frame sides of hinge. Because there isn't much hinge thickness to work with, it is not possible to countersink screw holes to flush the screw head in the hole. Hence, if you don't stagger the holes, the screw heads will hit each other and impede door closing.
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I then filled the screw holes with silicone glue and put a bead of the glue on both door side & frame side, then screwed hinge back on. Left AI parked and door hung supported in stationary position for 5 days before using to make sure glue set to max holding strength.
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Now the easy part is over. The hardest & most time consuming part is yet to come, for me anyways because my fabricating skills are very crude at best. But I gained a lot during the acrylic mirror fabrication which gave me the courage for the next one, LEXAN & more acrylic/plexi fabrication . Gave me a chance to pull out my old Craftsman router, Dremmel scroll saw, and Dremmel rotary.

Gathering pics for that. Will try posting tonight/tomo.
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:30 PM   #39
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Are you installing anything to use as “shower” since you replaced pull-out? I would like to replace our faucet but add a separate showering hose/mount.
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:41 PM   #40
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Look closely... faucet has a quick connect for shower head.
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:58 PM   #41
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Are you installing anything to use as “shower” since you replaced pull-out? I would like to replace our faucet but add a separate showering hose/mount.
TXNTRAVLR - Hey, thanks for reminding me. Don't know if you saw the latest pics I just posted. Check out that faucet. Yes, look mom, no shower head pullout. Which we really like because as a normal 1/2 bath when using as people mover, it looks and feels just like a nice 1/2 bath powder-room in your stick house. But when we need to use as shower for camping, we use an attachment that easily snaps onto the faucet aerator. IMHO it is the best of both worlds of being able to buy many other faucet choices and still have ANY fancy shower head that you can buy and attach to it. I still have not bought the final shower head coz I have some secret ideas brewing in my head, like a mini-rain head. Might be a fancy ceiling mod for future winter project

Here is my current shower head with twice the length of SS braided hose compared to the pullout. Wife & daughters really like this idea. Especially when they are showing-off the interior to their friends, the head & hose can get hidden/stored anywhere. We don't even store in bath until we arrive at campground, since we use AI a lot just as daily fam/people mover and weekender/tailgating machine. Pic taken before all the new wall mirrors were installed. I highly recommend this setup.
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:59 PM   #42
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Look closely... faucet has a quick connect for shower head.
WACHUKO - the guy with the keen eye. Good spot
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