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Old 07-31-2015, 07:50 PM   #113
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Did you have to replace the batteries?
So far, no. But I'm sure I've shortened their useful life, again. They'll do for now, but I wouldn't want to try boondocking with them.
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Also where is that BIM fuse that is critical?
Inside the chassis battery box under the driver's footwell, so so I'm told. Or possibly in the driver's seat pedestal. The dealer already had everything sealed back up before I saw where it was, and I haven't mustered the curiosity to open it back up and look.
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Old 08-01-2015, 06:59 AM   #114
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Yes the fuse for the charging wire to the BIM is inside the Sprinter chassis battery box. I've had mine open a few times as I was contemplating upgrading to lithium batteries. But the wire on mine is only 4 gauge, not large enough to support charging a 400 AH lithium house battery. So I'll be staying with AGM batteries when I upgrade.


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Old 08-01-2015, 10:19 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
Yes the fuse for the charging wire to the BIM is inside the Sprinter chassis battery box. I've had mine open a few times as I was contemplating upgrading to lithium batteries. But the wire on mine is only 4 gauge, not large enough to support charging a 400 AH lithium house battery. So I'll be staying with AGM batteries when I upgrade.


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If you were to go with lithium house batteries, you would NOT want any charge from your engine battery (or BIM) anyway. They require a very specific voltage profile voltage for their charge cycle (which is NOT 3-stage) and any outside additional voltage would damage them.

In my lithium installations, there are only 2 charging sources, both of which are programmable: Blue Sky solar charge controllers and Magnum inverter/chargers.

I am especially careful to pull the fuse from the TV's charge line so that no power comes thru the 7-way umbilical into the lithium.
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Old 08-01-2015, 11:54 AM   #116
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If you were to go with lithium house batteries, you would NOT want any charge from your engine battery (or BIM) anyway. They require a very specific voltage profile voltage for their charge cycle (which is NOT 3-stage) and any outside additional voltage would damage them.

In my lithium installations, there are only 2 charging sources, both of which are programmable: Blue Sky solar charge controllers and Magnum inverter/chargers.

I am especially careful to pull the fuse from the TV's charge line so that no power comes thru the 7-way umbilical into the lithium.
Does that mean that the lithium house batteries are only charged from solar or shore power? Or can you connect the chassis battery to Magnum?
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:52 PM   #117
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There is an elephant in the room when it comes to AS quality and that is the fact that there is an almost cult like acceptance of a less than perfect product based on the reputation, history and unique style of an Airstream. The perceived value of an AS travel trailer is the best marketing tool Thor has!

As Joemikeb said, Quality must be engineered into the process and designed into the product and there has to be total commitment extending all the way from the CEO to the cleaning crew.
That is my largest concern. Am I spending $120K on a quality trailer or am I spending $120K on a cult following?

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When I was installing 15" SenDel wheels with 15" Michelins to replace the stock 14" tires and wheels on the 23D, I found that the leading edge of the curb side wheel well was 2" longer than on the street side. I had to trim the skin metal and bend the wheel well frame so the tire would not rub on the skin metal. Obviously the chap working on the street side did not do the sheet metal work on the curb side or vice versa.

Both pieces of metal were pre-cut on a huge router table where the cutter head is computer programmed.
I saw similar "oversight" issue with a 2016 Airstream under the belly. I wonder if it is one of those "out of sight out of mind - don't care" things. I'd hate to see the hidden areas like above the liquid tanks and behind the cabinets. Probably pretty rough. I remember one of these threads on here revealing quite shoddy wiring throughout the trailer.
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:15 PM   #118
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Does that mean that the lithium house batteries are only charged from solar or shore power? Or can you connect the chassis battery to Magnum?

You can actually connect the chassis battery to the solar charge controller for a 2 amp maintenance charge.

If you want to charge your chassis battery when stationary, look at Magnum's ME-SBC, which is a smart battery combiner that will add up to 25 amps to the secondary battery system from the primary.


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Old 08-01-2015, 03:30 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post
You can actually connect the chassis battery to the solar charge controller for a 2 amp maintenance charge.

If you want to charge your chassis battery when stationary, look at Magnum's ME-SBC, which is a smart battery combiner that will add up to 25 amps to the secondary battery system from the primary.


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Actually what I meant was could you connect the chassis battery to the inverter to charge the lithium batteries.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:58 PM   #120
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Thanks Lew - those are good tips on a lithium installation. But the big lithium issue for me is dealing with freezing temps where I live in Maryland.


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Old 08-01-2015, 06:56 PM   #121
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For the money that AS trailers or spriinters cost ther should not be any problems of any problems that I read about on forums, in my opinion junk or cult. I have had 5 AS 1 argosy all before 1980. I would not even consider pur. another one.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:06 PM   #122
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Thanks Lew - those are good tips on a lithium installation. But the big lithium issue for me is dealing with freezing temps where I live in Maryland.


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Mike et al,

We are trying to acquire some new lithium technology that 'is stated' to work down to -20C, which comes out around -4F. That includes both use and charging.

Our present lithium formula allows for use below 0C (32F), just not charging below freezing, as the lithium paste will likely separate from the electrode posts within the battery when charged at below freezing temps.

Regardless, the new formulation will be thoroughly tested in a deep freeze (if and when we get our hands on some cells) to be certain that their claims ring true.

You can be sure that I'll post on the results as soon as they happen!
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:08 PM   #123
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Actually what I meant was could you connect the chassis battery to the inverter to charge the lithium batteries.
The Magnum inverter/charger needs 120VAC shore or generator power to operate the charging system within the unit.
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:58 AM   #124
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Well .. I was going to begin a thread complaining about my 72... After reading through this, I think I'll go camping instead...
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:10 AM   #125
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I'm 2/3 through a book by Yvon Chouinard called "Let My People Go Surfing." If you don't know who he is, Yvon Chouinard is a great outdoor adventurer (climbing, surfing, fly fishing etc..), who happens to also be the founder of Patagonia (the company).

Chouinard's commitment to quality puts Airstream to shame.

Maybe we should all chip in, buy a bunch of copies of this book and send them to Airstream.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:54 PM   #126
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I was struggling with FUBAR (forgive me, I'm a foreigner!) but my Maxxair fan knob also feels like something is slipping. Had to pull down hard to get the gears to mesh.
Please let us know how much.


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The movement of the knob up and down (it's just sliding on the drive shaft) is simply to lock (up) and unlock (down) the turning of the shaft. Since it's a worm drive and you're experiencing a problem, there's a good chance that the mechanism is already starting to break.

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Not only was the operator mechanism shot but when taking the fan apart to get to it, I found that one of the arms on the lifter arm had broken off. It was also made from the same brittle die-cast pot-metal. While I could have repaired it, decided to replace since it was $12.

Also noticed that crazing was developing on the smoked hood where the mold sprue was cut off. First hailstorm will probably destroy it.
Parts arrived today. Good news is that they now make the lifter arm a welded steel assembly and they included detailed instructions. Bad news was that the pins on the end of the arms were about 0.015" too big to fit the slotted brackets that they ride in. Fixed that by enlarging the slots w/ a flat file. The operator is still the same old die-cast pot-metal assembly.

To remove the fan you must first remove the interior trim piece (four screws) and cut the wire splices. Then on the roof, remove the four screws that are visible when the hood is raised. It then lifts out. I used a 10' step ladder next to the slider and placed a moving blanket on the awning and roof. Be very, very careful.

The replacement is very easy, especially w/ the included instructions.

Kudos to Airstream as they used 10ga wire to the fan to minimize voltage drop.


Operator mechanism-10-20281K-3CF $10.78
Lifter arm-10-20222KS $12.66
Shipping- $5.05

Good luck w/ yours.
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