2018 Fresh Water Drain Issue

[observer]

Just got my 2018 Interstate. One thing that surprised me is the drain for the fresh water. See attached pic - it is very basic, and if I must say, cheap. It is hard to thread it properly based on where it is, and it seems like the threads will easily be destroyed. I was hoping to replace the plug with a valve so I wouldn't have to remove it to drain but the threading is not standard hose threading. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get a valve fitting that would work with this tank?

Thanks.

[Protagonist]

I've looked at replacing the drain plug with a valve as well, but eventually decided against it. Damaging the threads is really not a problem unless you try to screw the plug in too tightly, and having a valve hanging down lower than the existing drain plug means that you're more likely to damage the valve on a gravel campsite road or a pothole or a raised railroad track, or any of the other road hazards that will reach out and grab low-hanging bits.

On the rare occasion that I have to drain the fresh tank, first I pump out the fresh tank through the external shower, spraying the water as far away as possible. Then, when the volume of water in the tank is low enough for the pump to lose prime, I'll open the drain plug to let the rest of the water out. That way I don't end up lying on my back in a 26-gallon lake of fresh tank runoff.

I use a properly-sized Knipex plier-wrench to grab hold of the plug to loosen or tighten it, so I don't damage the corners of the plastic hex head. Works like a charm, better than conventional adjustable wrenches.

[toskeysam]

I carry a small toolbar for "water system". It has 2 sockets. One for freshwater and one for water heater.

[c21]

Originally Posted by observer

Just got my 2018 Interstate. One thing that surprised me is the drain for the fresh water. See attached pic - it is very basic, and if I must say, cheap. It is hard to thread it properly based on where it is, and it seems like the threads will easily be destroyed. I was hoping to replace the plug with a valve so I wouldn't have to remove it to drain but the threading is not standard hose threading. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get a valve fitting that would work with this tank?

Thanks.

My 2014 had 3/4" NPT threads. I put a street elbow and a pvc ball valve with the handle to the top.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by observer

Just got my 2018 Interstate. One thing that surprised me is the drain for the fresh water. See attached pic - it is very basic, and if I must say, cheap. It is hard to thread it properly based on where it is, and it seems like the threads will easily be destroyed. I was hoping to replace the plug with a valve so I wouldn't have to remove it to drain but the threading is not standard hose threading. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get a valve fitting that would work with this tank?

Thanks.

I replaced the plastic plug with this brass garden hose to NPT adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Meta.../dp/B0070TV29W

Then capped it with this brass garden hose cap.
https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Brass.../dp/B000CSXIMW

The cap has a rubber gasket so I only have to hand tighten the cap. I've used this setup now for three years and over 60,000 miles without any issues. You can probably also find these same parts a Lowes or Home Depot.

I'll try to get a photo tomorrow and post it for info.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

I replaced the plastic plug with this brass garden hose to NPT adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Meta.../dp/B0070TV29W

The Amazon webpage says:
"These fittings contain lead and are not allowed by federal law to be installed for potable water use in the U.S.A. and its territories." How much lead will actually leach out of the metal into your water I cannot say. You would probably be able to use them your whole life and never get enough lead in your drinking water to make any difference.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

The Amazon webpage says:
"These fittings contain lead and are not allowed by federal law to be installed for potable water use in the U.S.A. and its territories." How much lead will actually leach out of the metal into your water I cannot say. You would probably be able to use them your whole life and never get enough lead in your drinking water to make any difference.

Interesting - I didn't see that note. I bought my fittings locally at Lowes, but they are probably made from the same type of brass with small traces of lead. I did a quick search on this and it appears that water fitting can now be made with lead in the brass or lead free brass. This is especially true in California that mandates lead free fittings. Here is a short paper from University of Cincinnati that details the lead contains, but make no conclusive statement.
http://homepages.uc.edu/~maynarjb/Fr...components.pdf

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Interesting - I didn't see that note. I bought my fittings locally at Lowes, but they are probably made from the same type of brass with small traces of lead.

I'd say don't sweat it, as long as you don't have children or small pets drinking the water, that might be more greatly affected by low concentrations of lead.

By the time you get to where you have to lie about your age because you can't remember what it is anyway, new lead in your system is too little, too late to make any difference.

[Boxster1971]

Just found the same fitting in lead free brass from same company, Anderson Metals.

http://www.andersonmetals.com/produc...se-fittings-3/

So if anyone is worried about the lead in brass fitting just look for lead free brass. It's obviously available, but I don't plan to change my drain fittings. As Protagonist says - not to worry about it for us old farts.

[Boxster1971]

Found the photo of drain mod I made a few years ago. It only extends about 3/4" lower than the original plastic plug. I thought about installing an elbow and valve, but this was a lot simpler and lower profile.

[Titus]

I cross-threaded the plug once because I didn't want to lie on the ground to get a good view of it. Been paying for that laziness ever since. Now have to lay on the ground and be very careful to get it started square. With care and Teflon tape I can (usually) get a drip-free plug. I would like a different solution, but every one I have tried suffers from one of two issues:
1) any fitting I would leave in sticks too far into the bottom of the tank - keeping the last 1/4" or more of water from draining out. Removing the original plug removes the only thing that sticks up into the bottom of the tank.
2) valve or whatever sticks down too far - just begging to be snagged on something and making a real mess of the plug.

[Titus]

Emptying the fresh water tank most of the way using the pump sounds like it would be hard on the pump over the long term. I don't know how many gallons the pump is good for, but I don't want to waste those gallons on emptying the fresh water tank - especially when the plug gets removed anyway. I sanitize and drain the fresh water tank and water heater whenever it is going to sit for a couple of weeks or more.

When draining the water heater I insert a 1/4" tube into the water heater drain hole. The 1/4" tube has a permanent arc to it. The arc lets the tube sit on the bottom of the heater tank and siphon out water that would otherwise be below the level of the bottom of the drain hole. First time I did this I got an amazing amount of lime particles out. Now not so much.

[c21]

Here's my solution. I used a 3/4" threaded x 3/4" female slip Street Elbow, a 3/4" male slip X 1/2" threaded male reducer, a 1/2" female threaded ball valve and a 1/2" threaded plug. I used liquid teflon for assembly, hence the black dirt accumulation. As you can see I positioned the valve with the handle toward the top for max clearance. There are things that hang down farther than this valve and in 30k miles it's never hit anything. It looks like the valve handle is holding it at an angle but it's not, there is clearance above the handle. It is angled because the 3/4" boss on the tank isn't straight.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Titus

Emptying the fresh water tank most of the way using the pump sounds like it would be hard on the pump over the long term.

Not so much. It's not like I have to pump out 26 gallons all in one go. I usually start to winterize with the tank already partly or mostly empty, so I'm only pumping a few gallons at most.

Besides, hooking up the external shower hose to pump out the tank also reminds me to winterize the external shower connection, too.

[GETRIDAONE]

I tried a set up like c21bil but didn't like how far it hung down and the pvc valve is hard to turn. I used a pvc female adapter and a rubber expansion plug available at any boating supply store. It is commonly used for live well drains.

[Titus]

I considered the rubber expansion plug but didn't' think that it would seal the threads. Hadn't thought about using PVC fitting to yield a smooth ID.

[Matth57]

I wonder why Airstream stopped making the fresh water tank with both a drain valve and a drain plug. My 1984 model has both. The drain valve is easily accessible from the side of the tank between the tires.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Matth57

I wonder why Airstream stopped making the fresh water tank with both a drain valve and a drain plug. My 1984 model has both. The drain valve is easily accessible from the side of the tank between the tires.

Airstream trailers may still have both; I don't know. But I don't think Airstream Interstate class B motorhomes ever had both a drain plug and a drain valve.

[sheriff1]

2014 30' has both 1/2 drain on side and maybe 1 1/2 plug on bottom covered by inspection plate.

[Lotus54]

My 2006 has a drain valve, but no drain plug that I'm aware.
Since the tank is entirely inside the vehicle, perhaps that is why they did it that way.
Open a cabinet door, open the valve and let it drain. On mine even with the rear lifted a bit not all will drain out- but most will.

Mark