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Old 04-24-2019, 09:55 PM   #21
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Libertyville , Illinois
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Okay, I think know what I’m going to do for the microwave...
From the AC out of the inverter I will install a small breaker box from midnite solar (Baby DIN). From this box I will have 2 circuits, one 15 amp for the original inverter outlets and a 20 amp for the microwave. This will isolate the shore and inverted neutral wires and allow the microwave to work properly from shore, generator or inverter. I think the EMS should be fine as well with this arrangement (fingers crossed)

Electrical experts, please weigh in if I’m missing something

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:40 PM   #22
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Update:
Tore everything apart again to find a place for the new breaker box and made some temporary connections to do a trial run with microwave on inverter using the wiring described above.

Good news:
Everything on the AC side seemed to work and it should be possible to mount the mini DIN box under the seat with the inverter

Bad News:
While testing the the microwave on the inverter, the battery was putting out 188 amps and the inverter shut down due to low voltage after 15 - 10 seconds.

Battery was only at 50%, so I’m charging it and will also check to make sure all the connections are tight. However, I’m afraid my 1/0 cabling may be too small when using high power items. The run is probably 8 - 10 ft with one connection at the battery isolator.

Ugh
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:29 PM   #23
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Just checked my inverter setting and the low battery voltage cut off (LBCO) is set @ 12.1 and the delay time is only 10 s. Could be too conservative for micro usage?
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:42 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmitte View Post
LB_3,

I'm already impressed with the battery/alternator and solar charging over the past few days. I can leave the main power on with fridge running and never go below 90% SOC. I do have the Microair easy start on my wish list. But as you might guess from the residual snow in the last pictures it's not a high priority right now in Chicago.

I have a question related to battery isolation that you may be able to answer. I remember seeing somewhere in Wachuko's thread that it's important to have the BIM disconnect the battery banks if the generator and engine are both running. I'm having a hard time understanding why this would be the case. Once the generator starts (from house bank) its no longer connected. It then supplies AC to the charger which can convert back to DC and charge the battery. As long as my cables are sufficient I don't see why there should be an issue if the charger, alternator and solar are all feeding the battery bank. They just need to stop when the batteries are full, right?

Am I missing something?

Thanks
Eric
There may be more to it, but I think the issue is probably as simple as having different styles of batteries and different charging profiles and voltages. If your alternator is somewhere between 13.8-14.2 volts and your inverter/charger is putting out 14.6v, the alternator won’t be doing anything and the generator will be handling all van’s loads and overcharging the chassis battery. Charging the house batteries from the alternator is ok (if your alternator is sized to handle the current) because the voltage isn’t high enough to overcharge the lithium’s.
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:22 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmitte View Post
Attachment 339610
Bad News:
While testing the the microwave on the inverter, the battery was putting out 188 amps and the inverter shut down due to low voltage after 15 - 10 seconds.

Battery was only at 50%, so I’m charging it and will also check to make sure all the connections are tight. However, I’m afraid my 1/0 cabling may be too small when using high power items. The run is probably 8 - 10 ft with one connection at the battery isolator.

Ugh

Yep. By my calculations a 20 foot circuit (You have to use the length of both the positive and negative wires) at 200A requires a 4/0 wire for a voltage drop of 2%.


Pat
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:01 PM   #26
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Well... I decided running the microwave from the inverter wasn’t worth the effort of running new cables to the inverter at this time. Will reevaluate after this seasons use.

At least it will give me an excuse to exercise the genny
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:21 PM   #27
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My Avenue Lithium Upgrade

It started out as a modest desire to run the 700W microwave (that actually pulls about 1200 watts) without being plugged in or starting the generator. I also wanted to get rid of 150 year old lead-acid technology and double my usable amp hours so we could boondock more than one night. Modest goals I thought.

All parts of my project are Renogy (except for Victron 75/15 Bluetooth solar controller replaced last year). Mainly because the Renogy's were the only batteries that fit (and their prices are right). I guess I was feeling flush with cash when Renogy put their 100Ah lithium batteries on sale for $719 (no tax, no shipping) back in August, I took the plunge and ordered two. After initially ordering a 2000W inverter without charger, I realized it would be easier to install a combined inverter/charger. Sent it back and reordered. The first combined inverter/charger had a recall the day after I received it, so had to wait for a replacement. This accounts for considerable delay in completing my project.

To bring you up to date:

Inverter/charger - Replaced the old 750 Tripplite with the Renogy 3000W Pure Sine Wave Lithium Compatible R-INVT-PCL1-30111S-BC. Currently on sale for $719 (free shipping https://www.renogy.com/3000w-12v-pur...w-lcd-display/). It happened to just fit the long and fairly skinny space I had available. Overkill for now, but I wanted the 3000W in case of future upgrades.

Truly an easy plug & play replacement for the Tripplite. It is easily programmed from it's top LCD screen. Charger rates can be set in 5A increments up to 65A. I set the charge rate for 45 amps which is the same as the old Tripplite on high charge. A comparable Victron will run you about $1300. A respected product, but at nearly twice the cost.

2 x 100Ah Lithium Batteries - Besides being on sale for $719 at the time I purchased, Renogy had the only true Group 27 sized batteries I found (actually slightly smaller). Battleborns, besides being more expensive, simply wouldn't fit externally or internally in my application. I ended up installing the Renogy's inside, next to the inverter, by re-purposing a small storage compartment. Makes for short cable runs of 24" for everything but the Inverter positive, which is still only 36". I just purchased all new cables except for the 2ga parallel cables from the old batteries.

DC-DC Charger - At the time, Renogy offered 20A ($129) and 40A ($179) models. I chose the 40A since I figured the 20 wasn't enough and the 40 would still not over-tax my engine alternator (just my guess). I effectively isolates the lithiums from the lead-acid engine battery bypassing the old Isolator to which the Ignition switch was wired. This required I move the Ignition wire that turns on the DC-DC charger on to new charger and running a new ground.

State of Charge Monitor/Shunt - To track the lithium charge levels, I purchased the Renogy 500A Monitor for $99. Comes with it's own shunt which is wired to the negative cables. It handles 500 amps and can be programmed for up to 9999 amp hours of battery, so again, I won't have to replace it if I add future battery capacity.

Unexpected Discoveries during install:
While the install when pretty much as expected and there was no smoke or fires (thanks uncle bob) , moving the batteries inside and disconnecting from the chassis battery resulted in the following unwanted, but necessary changes.

1) The chassis battery no longer charges when plugged in. I also no longer have the battery boost feature that allows a weak engine battery to be started from coach batteries. Guess I'll have to buy and carry a $200 battery booster now.

2) The old battery cables to the outside are no longer used, and so, no longer power the main 12 DC bus. So I had to add a cable from the relocated batteries to the positive DC bus to power the coach's 12 DC panel. Also had to relocate the Tank Monitor power from the old Isolator location where they were no longer getting power. Both were minor, just unexpected.

3) One of the major reasons for the upgrade was to run the microwave from the inverter. But I soon realized the plug behind the microwave is not on the inverter curcuit. Oops. We are leaving on a trip in a week so I temporarily ran an extension cord behind the cabinets to the a wall outlet connected to the inverter. A permanent fix will have to wait.

4) Love how fast the batteries charge with the new system. However, the inverter fan (which only runs intermittently under load) is noticeably noisier than the old Tripplite. Still, we don't plan to run the inverter except to use power-hungry appliances like the Microwave or a hair dryer and they will drown out any additional noise from the inverter.

Thoughts and future plans:

I just hate the old technology of lead-acid batteries and am glad to have them gone. So far I'm in for about $2700 and that is "doing it on the cheap". I am wondering if the upgrade is worth it for the incremental benefit. Rationally no, but if there were truly a plug & play lithium battery option that worked with existing components, then for sure I'd say yes.

In my wildest dreams, there may someday be a 15,360wh beast lurking inside the old Avenue. Something that crushes the new "National Parks Edition" Travato and Boldt since I have room under the rear lounge to add up to 10 more 100ah lithiums (total of 12 x 1280wh) and still only take up a little more than half the available area.

Of course, it's just a little matter of $8000, an Easy-Start, and helalot of huge cables. Plus jettisoning the old Onan generator to keep weight to current levels.

Oh the dreams of youth (at age 65)!
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmitte View Post
Well... I decided running the microwave from the inverter wasn’t worth the effort of running new cables to the inverter at this time. Will reevaluate after this seasons use.

At least it will give me an excuse to exercise the genny

By the way, did you come up with a permanent solution to running the microwave off the inverter?
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Old 10-05-2019, 12:02 AM   #29
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Strange. A duplicate of above post occurred when reloading page nearly 30 mins later.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:28 PM   #30
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Well, I know what I need to do...
1) double up (or switch to 4/0) cables from the battery to minimize voltage drop under high current draw and
2) isolate the microwave with the other inverted circuits and find a place for the small breaker box

Haven’t done anything yet. Maybe later this fall or more likely in the spring
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:07 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmitte View Post
Well, I know what I need to do...
1) double up (or switch to 4/0) cables from the battery to minimize voltage drop under high current draw and
2) isolate the microwave with the other inverted circuits and find a place for the small breaker box

Haven’t done anything yet. Maybe later this fall or more likely in the spring
I'm trying to test out my new lithium system (so far, so good) and get ready for a long trip in 10 days. So today I just ran an extension cord behind the microwave cabinet to the rear inverter wall outlet. When I tested it, the sucker pulled a little over 1200 watts. That means the 700 watt rating is just the cooking watts and something else is pulling the additional 500 watts?

I confirmed this with our 1100 watt kitchen microwave at home. It pulls a little over 1500 watts. It's a good thing microwaves cook fast because they sure use a lot of power when on.

As to the question of cable size, does anyone know if the negative cables need to be the same size as the positives, or can you get by with a size smaller? All my cable lengths are under 36" and I upgraded to 4/0 from batteries to 3000W Inverter, but the negative is only 2 ga. (same size as the ones wiring the batteries in parallel).
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Old 10-07-2019, 01:04 PM   #32
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My new inverter/charger is grounded using the same wire previously attached to the old Tripplite. In checking my wiring for the temporary extension cord from the Microwave to a nearby inverter outlet, my circuit tester shows an "Open Ground" condition. Same for the other inverter outlet up front. The 120v outlets all test ok.

I could swear I tested all outlets when I first purchased the van two years ago and don't recall the inverter outlets showing the "Open Ground" message. But two years is a long time and I practically never used the old Inverter, so I could be wrong about testing the inverter outlets.

It there something unique to rv's going on here? What should I do?
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Old 03-10-2020, 06:21 PM   #33
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Hi folks,
Finally finished the project to run the microwave OR Keurig from the inverter!
In summary,
I upgraded to 4/0 cabling and eliminated all but one connection between battery and the inverter.

For the AC side, I ran 12/3 SJO cable from Xantrex AC output up to the inverter distribution box shown in the pic. Then ran two circuits with SJO from there. One (15 A) for the RS GFI outlets and another (20 A) for the microwave.

Tested multiple times and everything is working as it should... just in time for a Spring Break Road Trip

Cheers,
Eric
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Old 03-11-2020, 07:58 AM   #34
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Enjoy your new system.

ps.- I quickly discovered the fix for my "open ground" condition (post #32 - above) was a program change on the inverter. Our system has worked flawlessly for over 6 mos. and we've enjoyed the extended battery life and microwave only the inverter.
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:13 PM   #35
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Thanks. Glad you got your open ground condition figured out
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Old 03-31-2020, 07:36 PM   #36
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6V vs 12v

has anyone gone from the stock 2-12volt batteries in series to 2-6volt in parallel & seen any benefit?
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Old 03-31-2020, 07:48 PM   #37
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has anyone gone from the stock 2-12volt batteries in series to 2-6volt in parallel & seen any benefit?
Welcome to the forum VANNA!

12volt or 6volt is not the main consideration. Any benefit would come from whether you can pack more amp hour capacity in the space you have available.
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Old 04-01-2020, 08:09 AM   #38
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has anyone gone from the stock 2-12volt batteries in series to 2-6volt in parallel & seen any benefit?

Oh, and you've got the Series/Parallel configurations backwards.
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Old 04-01-2020, 08:18 AM   #39
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VW, There are numerous threads in this forum and others about the benefits of converting to the use of 6V batteries. RB is correct it is about how many AH you can stuff in the available space. You cannot fit 6V batteries in the stock battery trays. You will need to make modifications which can be $. I converted to 4 6V batteries by modifying the stock battery trays and adding additional ones on the opposite side. I am very happy I did so. With judicious use of power and good monitoring hardware you can dry camp easily for an extended period.
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Old 04-02-2020, 10:56 AM   #40
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thanks rowiebowie for the correction, that said, swilly43 how many AH's did you gain and did you do other modifications?
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