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Old 08-04-2013, 09:38 AM   #1
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2011 Interstate Modifications to Present

I am considering an Interstate and would like to know the difference between purchasing a previously owned one in comparison to a 2013/2014 one.

What might I consider relevant? What have been the differences made by the Manufacturer since the 2011version, i.e., towing capacity, features, rearrangements, upgrades, modifications etc.?
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:48 AM   #2
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I am considering an Interstate and would like to know the difference between purchasing a previously owned one in comparison to a 2013/2014 one.

What might I consider relevant? What have been the differences made by the Manufacturer since the 2011version, i.e., towing capacity, features, rearrangements, upgrades, modifications etc.?
Latest models have an "armless" Fiamma F65Eagle awning that automatically retracts in high winds, that has received mixed reviews. Older models have an F65s power awning, that has support arms and doesn't automatically retract.

2013 and later come in standard and extended models. The extended model is 16 inches longer, and so has more internal volume, but trades that off with a reduced towing capacity of only 5000 pounds (rated capacity of the receiver). The regular model for all 2011 and later has a 7,500-pound rated capacity on the receiver. Of course, for all models, actual towing capacity is GCWR (15,250 pounds) minus the loaded weight of the Interstate, so you're not likely to see 7,500 pounds anyway.

2013 and later have a revised electrical system, that allows you to use the house batteries to jump-start the engine if the chassis batteries are depleted. It's not the best thing for your house batteries; you're trading off not being stranded now for reduced battery life later.

2013 and later makes the 50w solar panel standard rather than an extra-price option.

Those are the most salient points of difference, I think.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:47 PM   #3
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Not sure the Extended version is commensurate with my needs but they are nice and serve their purpose.

I have a driveway that goes uphill to a level area as my house sits up on the hill. I know backing up hills is not recommended for travel trailers. However, I would like to get the Interstate up there frontwards or backwards, to work on it and camp in it to get use to and learn about it.

My concern is scraping going up or coming down the drive way. Any experiences or recommendations for this type of procedure? Or is it something I need not worry about?
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:44 PM   #4
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My driveway approach is moderately steep and I have no problem dragging (mine is NOT the extended version). My brother's drive is VERY steep and there I have to carefully attack the entrance at a 45 degree angle to keep from dragging.
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:22 PM   #5
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Is there an issue with longer term parking at an incline? My driveway is fairly steep and I would like to keep it parked there when not in use. Is there any issue with fridge, generator, air conditioner or anything else?
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:53 PM   #6
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Is there an issue with longer term parking at an incline? My driveway is fairly steep and I would like to keep it parked there when not in use. Is there any issue with fridge, generator, air conditioner or anything else?
How steep is "fairly steep"? If it's more than a 5% slope, you won't be able to level your unit even with automotive service ramps, which are only about 8" tall. But if the slope is only about 5%, then I'd recommend that you use ramps (and chocks, and the parking brake) to level it. Pull up farther than you want to park it, place the ramps, and then move down-slope onto the ramps. When you're ready to leave, same thing in reverse, pull up-slope off the ramps, move the ramps out of the way, then drive off.

Parking on an incline may fool the generator into thinking it's low on oil, thus causing an automatic shutdown, so it's probably a bad idea to run the generator on the slope unless you've leveled the unit first.

I assume that you're asking about the fridge and such for trip prep, when you want everything nice and cool. Should be no problem with the refrigerator, I think, as long as your fridge doesn't run on propane. Nova Kools on late model Interstates are all-electric.

Don't know about the aircon, since I don't know how susceptible it is to being out of level. But I suspect that if it's too far out of level it will drip inside instead of the condensation draining overboard like it's supposed to.

Might be better to just park on the slope, and move it down to street level to get it ready for a trip.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:15 PM   #7
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Later models have built-in cup holders for the second row seats, dimmer for the ceiling LED lites (well needed as these things are as bright as plane landing lites), Kenwood nav/radio, polished grill bars, and rear close-out for the trailer hitch receiver. These came along after the 2011 model.

There may be others. All of the above except for the hitch close-out can be retro-fitted.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:57 PM   #8
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Forgot that they are putting the intermediate stop on the slider door now also.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:42 AM   #9
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The rear captain's chair has a shoulder harness while the 2011 and earlier models do not.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenDog View Post
I am considering an Interstate and would like to know the difference between purchasing a previously owned one in comparison to a 2013/2014 one.

What might I consider relevant? What have been the differences made by the Manufacturer since the 2011version, i.e., towing capacity, features, rearrangements, upgrades, modifications etc.?
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:52 PM   #10
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Not sure the Extended version is commensurate with my needs but they are nice and serve their purpose...

...My concern is scraping going up or coming down the drive way. Any experiences or recommendations for this type of procedure? Or is it something I need not worry about?
I've scraped the back end of my Extended version many times now. Steep driveways are a problem for the extra 16" behind the rear wheels. The lower trim that Airstream adds makes the back end even lower than a standard long Sprinter from MB. I added wood blocks to the bumpers on the rear trailer hitch mount to prevent serious damage when I've scraped the back end.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:13 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
I've scraped the back end of my Extended version many times now. Steep driveways are a problem for the extra 16" behind the rear wheels. The lower trim that Airstream adds makes the back end even lower than a standard long Sprinter from MB. I added wood blocks to the bumpers on the rear trailer hitch mount to prevent serious damage when I've scraped the back end.
I've seen a receiver mounted hitch step and hitch wheels on a Great West Van Legend. They ought to offer some protection for the rear end and generator, etc.
Anyone know where they can be obtained?
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:55 PM   #12
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When I had my 06 Interstate I put air lift airbags on the rear. These allowed me to back into curbs without hitting the tail pipe, etc. I would think having these with an on board compresser would allow you to raise the rear enough for clearance and then lower back down. Also helped when needing to see under rear of Interstate. Jim
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:37 PM   #13
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2013 and later have a revised electrical system, that allows you to use the house batteries to jump-start the engine if the chassis batteries are depleted. It's not the best thing for your house batteries; you're trading off not being stranded now for reduced battery life later.
A one or two second "jump" to start the engine would not draw a significant number of Amp Hours from the house battery bank. The starter is fused at 20 A and will draw much less than that except under extreme cold conditions (less than 0 deg. F). At 20 amps a one second "jump" would draw .333 Ah, not much of a draw down for a 168 Ah bank of batteries.

I don't know about your Interstate but mine has the wire installed to connect to the BIM (in fact, mine came with it connected) to enable this feature. Strangely, the other end of the wire was not connected to anything. At some point I will find the other end of the wire and install a momentary contact switch to implement this, just in case. The newer models have this switch installed.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:54 PM   #14
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FYI when jump starting a vehicle, the good battery doesn't provide the starting current to the dead vehicle. The good battery simply provides enuf charge to the dead one to basically allow it to provide the starting current of over 100 amps.

Also one should not run a starter motor for more than about ten seconds and then allow a cool down as starters are not designed as continuous duty motors.
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