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Old 08-12-2013, 01:56 PM   #15
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I've seen a receiver mounted hitch step and hitch wheels on a Great West Van Legend. They ought to offer some protection for the rear end and generator, etc.
Anyone know where they can be obtained?
Pictures attached.
My 2011 has fixed bumpers under the hitch instead of the rollers in your pic to protect the rear from dragging.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:07 AM   #16
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Any decent welding shop or even better trailer manufacturer should be able to fabricate and install a roller similar to the one shown in the pictures. I see a lot of anti-drag rollers on stock trailers in almost every town in North Texas.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:24 PM   #17
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FYI when jump starting a vehicle, the good battery doesn't provide the starting current to the dead vehicle. The good battery simply provides enuf charge to the dead one to basically allow it to provide the starting current of over 100 amps.

Also one should not run a starter motor for more than about ten seconds and then allow a cool down as starters are not designed as continuous duty motors.


You are absolutely correct with the second statement but the first statement seems totally goofy to me . The "jump" situations I've seen go like this; connect cables to both vehicles then immediately try to start the dead one.
  1. Typically, there is only a few seconds delay between the time the "jump" connection is made and attempting to start the "dead vehicle"; this would not allow time for the "dead" battery to take on any meaningful charge. Therefore, the good battery IS providing the starting current. IMHO.
  2. The Sprinter starter is fused at either 20A or 25A depending on MY; this is far short of the 100A you cite.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:37 PM   #18
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FYI when jump starting a vehicle, the good battery doesn't provide the starting current to the dead vehicle. The good battery simply provides enuf charge to the dead one to basically allow it to provide the starting current of over 100 amps.
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You are absolutely correct with the second statement but the first statement seems totally goofy to me . The "jump" situations I've seen go like this; connect cables to both vehicles then immediately try to start the dead one.[LIST=1][*]Typically, there is only a few seconds delay between the time the "jump" connection is made and attempting to start the "dead vehicle"; this would not allow time for the "dead" battery to take on any meaningful charge. Therefore, the good battery IS providing the starting current. IMHO.
Have to agree. The good battery is providing the charge. Back in the days before computerized ignition switches, you could jump-start a car that had no battery at all, and as long as it had a good alternator, you could keep it running that way. I actually did that once, after someone stole my battery (that was also in the days before inside hood releases). After jump-starting the battery-less car, the alternator kept it running long enough to get to Sears Auto Center.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:10 PM   #19
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  1. The Sprinter starter is fused at either 20A or 25A depending on MY; this is far short of the 100A you cite.
Are you saying that the 12V line to the starter motor is fused at 20A or 25A?

Maybe the high starting current is an urban legend.

I never was sure how the 100-200 amps gets thru the point contacts that jumper cables have.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:11 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by wayneskid View Post
You are absolutely correct with the second statement but the first statement seems totally goofy to me . The "jump" situations I've seen go like this; connect cables to both vehicles then immediately try to start the dead one.
  1. Typically, there is only a few seconds delay between the time the "jump" connection is made and attempting to start the "dead vehicle"; this would not allow time for the "dead" battery to take on any meaningful charge. Therefore, the good battery IS providing the starting current. IMHO.
  2. The Sprinter starter is fused at either 20A or 25A depending on MY; this is far short of the 100A you cite.

Hi, I believe the starter fuse must be for the solenoid because starter motors can use from about 100 amps to as much as 400 amps.

I know we aren't talking about trailers, but my trailer's tongue jack uses a 20 amp fuse.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:21 PM   #21
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Hi, according to the Sprinter forum, the 20 or 25 amp starter fuse is for the starter solenoid/relay, not the actual starter motor.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:28 AM   #22
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ROBERTSUNRUS & 73shark,

My mistake, thanks for the catch! I was mislead by a tech bulletin put out by MB-USA in February 2013 that urged replacing the stock 20A fuse for a 25A to correct fuse blowing issues when starting in extremely cold weather. I believe this was a misguided recommendation. The starter will draw more amps when starting a cold engine but I don't think the current drawn by the solenoid would change much at low temps.

The tech bulleting was re-distributed by AEV (American Emergency Vehicles) and can be seen here: http://www.aev.com/uploads/file/SPRI...20START%20.pdf

I am now appropriately chagrinned and a little smarter! So my day is off to a good start.

Thanks again,
Wayne
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