Would you drive down this hill?

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Anyone who's experienced with common tractors knows how lousy their brakes are....and how ill-equipped the common tractor would be for this job.

Having driven tractors for all of my life, I'm not convinced that's true. I might not do it with my 50 year old two-wheel drive tractor, but if you can find someone with a modern four-wheel drive tractor of sufficient size, then it shouldn't be a problem. I would not suggest renting something and driving it yourself unless you have a lot of experience, this isn't the place to learn.

[Jekerrville]

Skid steer loaders don't have breaks. They are hydrostatic driven. No open valve no movement. You have excellent control, very slow and deliberate movement. You can turn around in the radius of the machine. Thus hitch point control is superior to tractors.

Smaller foot print of machine is made for tight places and rubber tires don't destroy the yard.

But, to each his own. From combines to track machines to 6040 John Deers to skid steers, been there done that. You can put that Airstream 34' 8" long trailer in that back yard if you have at least 25' side set back and 40' back yard to house set back. I will assume that the home lot is at least 120' wide.

Disclosure-your mileage may very, void where prohibited, object in mirror are closer than they appear, you check is in the mail.....

[crispyboy]

Tractor brakes: Cheap tractors have drum brakes, good tractors have hydraulic brakes.

You shouldn't need them anyway. With a tractor you put it in the proper gear and just walk the trailer down the hill. Using brakes will just make you slide over the hill. I have ran tractors since I was old enough at the age of 12 when I could reach the pedals which gives me 37 years of experience on steep hills in Kentucky. You don't go over the hill with a tractor in the winter or spring or you could be in for a heck of ride.

[sbowman]

Good luck. Send picture when you have landed.

Best regards and safe travels....

[Bill M.]

How busy is the street? Backing in sure looks like an option from the sketch if you can bet both lanes stopped for 15 min or so. It would be easier to bail out from backing up than from the long down round if something does go wrong.

[3wd67rg]

Why? Just park it in front or pay for storage. If your wife’s ire is worth the possible loss of the entire trailer, a tow vehicle, your neighbor’s fence, and a lawn, perhaps the trailer wasn’t worth it. It seems she already doesn’t want the Airstream.

[3wd67rg]

Originally Posted by elektrik

Here's one of two routes into my back yard, where I want to work on a reno. I'd be coming up the neighbor's driveway then over and down. I'd get rid of the fence at the top, and could even shave some dirt off the crest to make it an easier transition. I'd be driving slowwwww. And I'd only need to do this once.

Details: 3/4 ton truck (Enterprise rental, so I don't have specifics), 34' AS. It's about 21% grade for this section -- about 30 feet long -- before flattening out.

This lets me drive in and park, work, then drive out the other side of the house. The other side is an easier grade, but the retaining wall won't let me back in and be able to turn. So I think this is my only route. If I tried to drive in the shallower route, I'd be stuck trying to make an eleventy-three point turn to flip it around. Not gonna happen.

What do you think?

Thanks!
e

Please Explain This

Originally Posted by elektrik

And I'd only need to do this once.

Because if you are parking a trailer in the backyard and leaving it there, never to drive it out again, I would think your answers would be a bit different. Is this an extra room? A place to get away from...

[elektrik]

Wow again, many thanks for all these great suggestions. Lots to digest here.

But to @PammieSue's comment above, I only need to do this once, because I'm going to renovate it and drive it north to my land, where it's going to live on as a tiny house. Short term pain (well, hopefully not too much), long term gain.

There's no HOA where I am, and the bylaws only say I can't park on the street. And there is nearly no traffic -- I'm nearly at the end of a cul-de-sac with only 3 houses beyond me, so stopping traffic to back in won't be a problem.

Unfortunately, the closest storage is a half hour drive, and there is no power for tools. Not conducive to quick tasks after work.

I'm attaching a pic from the top of my driveway, looking down the gentle slope. There's a fence, but the kicker is the brick wall. I'd remove it if I thought it would help, but even then, there is an elevation change to the next yard over. Swinging out for the turn would be very tricky/impossible. I've also attached a Google Earth view (albeit dated).

I just made that quick sketch in Illustrator, but I can pull out AutoCAD and make something to scale. I think there is more setback from the house than my sketch indicated. I also don't need it to be against the back fence. I'll be happy if it's anywhere back there, really.

The front hitch concept is likely foiled by the retaining wall. The breakover angle (learned that here, thanks) on the steeper side may be a show stopper. I'd hate to learn that the hard way. I also want to keep my shed intact.

My own experience driving trailers is limited to my 16' pop-up. Thus my reluctance and this whole question. The TV + AS is 50' of uncertainty. Fear and Loathing in Maryland, maybe. No way I'd drive a tractor or skid steer myself on this.

I need to read through this whole thread again and digest. Fortunately, I'm not in a time crunch. But a wrecker at the top of my driveway, with a winch operator to ease it down, may be the safest path. Once the reno is done, I back up, hook up, and pull it straight uphill and beyond.

But a key question from what I've read: if I have the AS going down the hill via winch, how do I crank on the tongue to change direction and turn it 90 degrees into the yard? Is it a matter of just pushing by hand as it descends? Do I get a chain, stand in my neighbor's yard and pull the tongue towards me? Maybe a front hitch to bring it down, then nudge it left to start the turn, and winch it after that?

Maybe I need to give up on the idea of it across the back? Rather than try to turn it, I wonder if I need to back it down the 12% grade onto 2x10's to elevate the axles and level it from there. The hill isn't steep at that point, but the grade continues down all the way to the back fence. Without elevating the back end, the tongue would probably be in the dirt (I need to measure that this weekend). Then there's no turning. Not ideal, as I'll have to transplant a new tree and shrubs, but maybe safer.

Ok, lots to process here. Many thanks for all the great input. I really appreciate it!

Thanks,
e

[gator.bigfoot]

After seeing the pictures, I would just back it straight down that 12% grade to the back fence and leave it there until you are done. Then it is just a matter of pulling it up the hill again. If you are not comfortable doing this then there are companies that can help like your local RV company or a local wrecker.

My personal trailer parking is a 16% grade with a turn and on an angle across the trailer which is on grass until the I reach the parking location which is gravel. I back it in there when the ground is dry enough to do so, otherwise it is not possible.

You shouldn't have any issue levelling the trailer once in the back.

Good luck.

[RandyNH]

Yup, I agree with this suggestion, lay down some 12' pressure treated to park on (for weight distribution), leave it far enough away the fence for for access and getting around it, and just go straight back to that back fence and when complete just pull it straight back out. It's not like you've got 18"inches of snow to go though to get to it. Then you still have use of the normal backyard family use.

[slowmover]

Hire a big truck towing recovery service. They winch far heavier non-wheeled “problems” up slopes worse than that. Coming over the crest is the only problem I see. And, final parking.

[azflycaster]

Would I do the move, no way. Too many things that could go wrong. Hire a licensed and bonded agent to do the move.