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Old 02-13-2018, 02:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
If you (as it reads) are going to RENT a truck for a TV just to make this re-positoning effort.... I'd recommend you make your life simpler and lay the responsibility for the job and safety onto a wrecking-truck company to do this job for you. A good winch-truck operator could do this in an hour and you'd be assured of a professional job and you would not be responsible for an ad-hoc attempt at something you've never done before.

Otherwise...if you're insistent on doing this yourself.... the recommendation to rent a 4-wheel large tractor is a good one. Back it up with a winch and cable to govern the descent so things don't get away from you... but be forewarned...
...just because you've rented the correct equipment (tractor/winch/etc) doesn't mean you have the experience and skill to operate it correctly or safely. Lots of city-folk move out here in the country near me and end up in the news with overturned tractors having killed them because they thought they were "saving money" instead of hiring a job to be done by experienced professionals.

Stay safe. An injury or damage can cost far more than a job hired-out.
Good advice! If you're going to have to rent a truck anyway, just hire a professional to do it.
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:19 PM   #30
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My 2-cents...

IMHO: If it were me, I wouldn't waste my time with the steeper (21%) side of the house (especially with its poorly positioned shed), or putting the hutch-jack/wheel anywhere near the ground; both are likely to end in disaster. I also wouldn't attempt moving the trailer in/out if the ground were wet (at all); wet grass/ground can act just like ice. Also, having learned the hard way (with my 31-ft AS), long trailers can cut corners (A LOT); so turning radiuses will be the biggest challenge for safely moving your 34-ft trailer (even empty).

QUESTION: Can you provide actual dimensions for your drawing, so that realistic turning radiuses can be calculated well before committing anything to what might be a problematic situation?

Guessing at dimensions, ... at first glance, I would probably opt for using a front-mounted hitch on a short-bed 4x4 truck (with appropriate tires), to push the trailer backwards down your driveway and (12%) side-yard. That would provide you the best chance of retaining full-control over the situation. A full-size 4x4 tractor might also work, if the hitch-ball were attached to the 3-point hitch (on the rear of the tractor). But I wouldn't waste my time with a smaller tractor, a longer truck, or anything without 4-wheel drive. Still, the short-bed 4x4 truck (w/front-mounted hitch) would be my preference.

Do let us know how this progresses; and PLEASE plan it out to the N-th degree BEFORE committing to anything physical. In fact, I would probably practice with the truck and a measuring tape (to recheck clearances,...) well-before attempting anything with the 34-ft trailer. "Better safe than damaged", I always say.
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:21 PM   #31
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Would you drive down this hill?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
Best idea yet!
Tool rental yards often have farm tractors for rent. Actually a 50 hp should have enough weight. Make sure the tractor weighs at least 5000 lbs.


Tractor got strong brakes too?
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:41 PM   #32
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If it was my house. I would build a retaining wall 10 ft from the back of the house and extend driveway to the wall. Basicly where the rear wheels stop. From the retaining wall and beyond is overhang and easy to work on Airstream underneath. Get the stackable blocks that stagger into the hill. Cement the first course 2 ft below grade. Wall should be only 3 ft above grade and as wide as you can go. Leave one course above new grade as a wheel stop. Always have someone help you back in, or mark house where driver mirror should be when parked. Buy beer and pizza for helping neighbors My 3cents.
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:29 PM   #33
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If it were me, I'd drive it straight down the 12% and park it in the opposite direction so the door faces the house.

This will make you much more happy. Added bonus is the ability to deploy the awning.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:16 PM   #34
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I've always taken the approach that if I can pull it out of a spot, it can be backed into. How about backing it down the 12% side with a rented tractor?
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:30 PM   #35
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I think from looking at your picture and your schematic, that the fence would make it difficult to make the turn to the back of the house..I think you would have to take the fence out...It would also be difficult with 4WD to pull your rig up out of there on the grass..especially on wet grass....
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
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I think from looking at your picture and your schematic, that the fence would make it difficult to make the turn to the back of the house..I think you would have to take the fence out...It would also be difficult with 4WD to pull your rig up out of there on the grass..especially on wet grass....
Certainly, although if you add the front hitch to the equation, you have vastly more influence on how you can maneuver. I've put my 31' in way crazier places with a front hitch. Although, it'd be nice to have some measurements, or at least a google earth view picture to aid in the discussion. Knowing the limits of a tow vehicle you actually own is the big difference here. If the OP doesn't own a TV, much less a tractor, he's better off flying one of us know-it-alls up there to do it for him. Good luck finding a caring and knowledgable tow truck driver to do it.

I'm more of a "should I have done this?" vs a "should I do this?" kind of person, so take my advice with that in mind.

My cup is usually half full, but then I'm left wondering who the f*@% drank half my drink?

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Old 02-13-2018, 09:15 PM   #37
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Dig yourself out

In tow words ," no pun intended here , NO WAY. I had a 7-9 degree slope and just barley cleared using a drop hitch @ 5 inch on my 27 FB.
It would be cheaper and easier for you to dig out the side of that hill build a retaining wall and plant her flat on the side of your house.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:52 AM   #38
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If it were me I would get (borrow) a utility trailer and build a mock-up of the trailer with some 2x4s. Use the single axle position of the utility trailer as the center of the 3 axles of the 34. Then give it a go. It would tell you what you need to know. Once you have that figured out you can mark the tire line that works for you. If something goes wrong it is easy enough to move the mock-up or dismantle it.

With the real thing you need to worry about the front and back end dragging, which hopefully you can see with the mock-up and you might not have the power to go up hill. A wrecker can help pull you up and he might also be a better option to get you down since he can hook the trailer to the lift and that can be adjusted to overcome the dragging of either the front or the back.

Grass needs to be dry. Don't try it with the grass wet. The weight will cause the unit to sink in making it harder also you will slip on the wet grass.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:46 AM   #39
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Deliver the trailer. Rent a skid steer loader with a set of forks. Have a welder make you a hitch to clamp on the forks. Hook on the trailer and with at least 4 people including you back the AS down the drive on your side of house and into back yard. As long as you have 25 foot set back on drive way side and 40 foot back yard from house to back fence, just do it.
The skid steer will allow you to keep the rear end of AS from dragging and ultimate maneuverability to put it where you want it. Period.

Wet grass or soil? Who cares. Skid machine can pick up your tow vehicle and all wheels turn. Wide tire pattern spreads out weight.

Repeat the procedure to get out.

All the best.

New Holland 165 LX or smaller will work great. Use nothing larger than 850 series. Too much power and size.

Also, you can measure out the site exactly on 11x17 Grady paper. Then make measure out the size of AS and what ever you choose to use to put your AS in the back yard and play fool house and see if you can even get into the site.

All the best.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:58 AM   #40
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One other poster asked an excellent question which is telling as regards experience with tractors: What about the tractor's brakes?

Anyone who's experienced with common tractors knows how lousy their brakes are....and how ill-equipped the common tractor would be for this job.

A tracked vehicle would make it easier... say ...a bull dozer. (It could move the house AND the hill out-of-the-way.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Anyone who's experienced with common tractors knows how lousy their brakes are....and how ill-equipped the common tractor would be for this job.
Having driven tractors for all of my life, I'm not convinced that's true. I might not do it with my 50 year old two-wheel drive tractor, but if you can find someone with a modern four-wheel drive tractor of sufficient size, then it shouldn't be a problem. I would not suggest renting something and driving it yourself unless you have a lot of experience, this isn't the place to learn.
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1946 Spartan Manor
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:30 AM   #42
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Skid steer loaders don't have breaks. They are hydrostatic driven. No open valve no movement. You have excellent control, very slow and deliberate movement. You can turn around in the radius of the machine. Thus hitch point control is superior to tractors.

Smaller foot print of machine is made for tight places and rubber tires don't destroy the yard.

But, to each his own. From combines to track machines to 6040 John Deers to skid steers, been there done that. You can put that Airstream 34' 8" long trailer in that back yard if you have at least 25' side set back and 40' back yard to house set back. I will assume that the home lot is at least 120' wide.

Disclosure-your mileage may very, void where prohibited, object in mirror are closer than they appear, you check is in the mail.....
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