Which spring bars for Blue Ox sway pro, Flying cloud 30 and F350

[2wiresdave]

We just picked up a 2010 Flying cloud 30RB and have a 2017 Ford F350 crew cab short bed diesel truck.

When towing the trailer home we just dropped the trailer on the ball and drove home. I was really concentrating on being careful but honestly besides looking in the mirrors and knowing I had a whole lot more cash out lay riding behind me the rig towed beautifully. We will tow 5-8K miles annually and we are new to this so I know we should have some sway control.

The FC 30 has a GVWR of 8800 lbs and that puts the tongue weight and potentially a little over 1000 lbs I would assume - maybe even a little more?

Anyone towing a 30 footer with the BOSP and what spring bars are you using? I would rather not bump up to the 1500's as they seem like overkill in my mind. My main reason for the hitch is to control unexpected sway as the trailer honestly doesn't seem to need weight distribution. It actually rides better with the Airstream on just the ball than it does empty!

[Overloaded]

I had SOB that was 32' 8800 lbs. I was using 1500 lbs bars after switching from 1000 lbs bars. For me it was a much better performance. TV was '16 F250. Those 1500 bars are for sale.

[PKI]

Blue Ox tech support will tell you to use bars that match the tongue weight. A 1000 lb tongue weight should use 1000 lb bars. Part of the analysis might be to start with 1000 lb bars and see if you can transfer enough weight to return the OEM weight to the front axle. Since you have an F350, I suspect the 1000's will work, but if you are not happy, you know where to go for a set of 1500's.

Good luck with your rig setup. Pat

[Wilbur McLamb]

I have a 2016 Classic and 2017 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel with air suspension rear springs and blue ox hitch. I honestly cannot tell any difference in towing with my 1000 lb bars hooked up or towing without the bars. I have tried this in all kinds of conditions, passing trucks, up and down mountains, back roads, four lane highways. I usually tow at 70 miles per hour or less. Now i just drop tongue on the ball and go. Never a problem.

[2wiresdave]

I feel as though I have to have sway control just "because"....however Ford specs on my truck say nothing needed. I certainly don't need weight distribution as the Airstream dropped on the ball just slightly compressed the truck. Drove some very bumpy concrete slab highway and had zero porpoising. Truck ride better actually with the Airstream behind it.

The BOSP seems like a simple safety net for the sway control and I don't want or need any, or at least very little weight distribution.

Leaning towards the 1000 lb bars at this point.

[USAtraveler]

Originally Posted by 2wiresdave

I feel as though I have to have sway control just "because"....however Ford specs on my truck say nothing needed. I certainly don't need weight distribution as the Airstream dropped on the ball just slightly compressed the truck. Drove some very bumpy concrete slab highway and had zero porpoising. Truck ride better actually with the Airstream behind it.

The BOSP seems like a simple safety net for the sway control and I don't want or need any, or at least very little weight distribution.

Leaning towards the 1000 lb bars at this point.

Ford says you don't need added sway control because your newer truck has built in electronic sway control (ESC) thru the onboard computer. ESC started out years ago as an option on luxury cars. Since then it has progressively improved and proven to be so effective that it has become a standard feature on every vehicle. As you've seen yourself, your TV/trailer behaves perfectly well with the ESC technology...no need for anything else.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by PKI

Blue Ox tech support will tell you to use bars that match the tongue weight. A 1000 lb tongue weight should use 1000 lb bars. Part of the analysis might be to start with 1000 lb bars and see if you can transfer enough weight to return the OEM weight to the front axle. Since you have an F350, I suspect the 1000's will work, but if you are not happy, you know where to go for a set of 1500's.

Good luck with your rig setup. Pat

On 3/4 and 1 ton trucks you don't need to worry about WD. As it was noted earlier don't use any heavier bars than necessary. The stiffer the bar the harder the ride on the Air stream. That is another benefit of towing with a heavier truck. The WD hitch is mainly needed for helping with sway control.

[dkottum]

The only way to know if you need w.d. is take the truck and trailer to a CAT scale, loaded for travel. Weigh the truck alone and then with the trailer. Then ask if you need w.d.

The only way to know if you need sway control is when something different than going straight down the highway happens. Someone forces you into a quick lane change while applying brakes on a steep downhill grade. Then you will know if you need sway control. And you may not need to look into the mirrors to see if it's there when it's alongside of you.

[Lil Bear]

I just ordered the 1500 pound bars to use with our new 26U that has a spec' tongue weight if 900#. I wanted a little bit of margin. That said I'll be selling my 1000# sway bars that we used for our 23FB.

How does $175.00 sound?

[NWRVR]

I have 1,000# bars on my BO set to the 8th link from the bitter end in the jaws. Tried 7th and 9th, but 8th provides much smoother ride for the AS. My Classic 30A tongue weight is about 765# compared to my former Serenity 25FB at 833#.

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by Lil Bear

I just ordered the 1500 pound bars to use with our new 26U that has a spec' tongue weight if 900#. I wanted a little bit of margin. That said I'll be selling my 1000# sway bars that we used for our 23FB.



How does $175.00 sound?

I think I'd keep the 1000 lb set for a while, I suspect you will be happier with them than the 1500s

[mschneid]

Dave,

My TV is a Tundra which tends to have softer springs. With that in mind I ordered the 1000 pound bars for my 30' Classic. 1000 pound bars are rated for 800-1000 TW when ideally using the recommended 9th link on the adjustment chains. This did not work for me so I upgraded to the 1500 pound bars using the 8th chain link (1100-1500 pounds). The blue ox sway pro works great now. But the one issue I have is with the rotating latch mechanism for the chains. If you go with the 1000 pound bars you may find yourself using the 9th or 10th chain link which will require you to jack your trailer up high to relieve the tension on the bars enough to rotate the latch. If you don't relieve the tension it could hurt you or damage the trailer when the latch is released. With the 1500 pound bars using the 8th chain link handles the load and is easier to rotate the latch mechanism.

[2wiresdave]

I haven't even bought a hitch yet, but I appreciate the offer.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by mschneid

Dave,

My TV is a Tundra which tends to have softer springs. With that in mind I ordered the 1000 pound bars for my 30' Classic. 1000 pound bars are rated for 800-1000 TW when ideally using the recommended 9th link on the adjustment chains. This did not work for me so I upgraded to the 1500 pound bars using the 8th chain link (1100-1500 pounds). The blue ox sway pro works great now. But the one issue I have is with the rotating latch mechanism for the chains. If you go with the 1000 pound bars you may find yourself using the 9th or 10th chain link which will require you to jack your trailer up high to relieve the tension on the bars enough to rotate the latch. If you don't relieve the tension it could hurt you or damage the trailer when the latch is released. With the 1500 pound bars using the 8th chain link handles the load and is easier to rotate the latch mechanism.

I have been working through this discussion in another post with several folks saying the 1000lb bars should be fine...I got the 1500 lb bars with my 28' few weeks back. BO recommended these over the 1000lb bars, as my tongue weight is at least 1000lbs verified by dealer weighing, unfortunately he only had 1000lb scale, so I still need to weigh the rig at cat scales later this week. I did notice a little proposing at first along with some sway in heavy winds. I have since tightened to 4.5 links showing, and that seems to have settled down. I think I need a few more miles to be convinced that 1500 are ok. (Canada later this week)
As for the loading and unloading; I got a 20" 3/4" drive Craftsman breaker bar along with a 1" 3/4 drive socket on Amazon. It works great and feels much more solid when loading the chain bars on the rotating locks. I still use the power jack to max out prior to hitching up also.

[Paul & Holly]

We have a 2010 30' Classic and a Blue Ox hitch with 1,000 pound bars. We towed with a 2012 Silverado 2500 Duramax until the fuel injector pump ate itself and spewed metal throughout the fuel system (another story entirely $8,400 cost to me with only 51,000 miles on truck) and now tow with a 2500 RAM.

The 1,000 pound bars seem to work well. We run about 1 1/2 inches of deflection (bend) in the bars, no sway, good ride for us and Airstream. We are in the 8th link from the free end of the chain.

Happy with this set up.

I don't think you would want 1,500 pound bars; too stiff.

Paul & Holly

[Overloaded]

Always always use tongue jack to hitch or unhitch. These are spring bars with lots of stored energy.
BO informed me that you can dial 1500 bars to perform like 1000 bars, just not the other way around obviously.

[AirMiles]

I use a Blue Ox Swaypro with a FC25FB and a Titan XD Diesel. The CAT scale shows the 1000# bars can barely restore my front axle weight while using the 11th link from the loose end of the chains with only 1-1/2 links showing under the latches. Moving up to the 11th link and restoring the full front axle weight greatly improved the handling. I would describe the 11th link feeling as the Airstream is now riding on the bars rather than on the truck springs. This is a great feeling and eliminated the bowpush I used to feel when large vehicles blew past me. I would buy 1500# bars for a 30' based on my experience.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

I use a Blue Ox Swaypro with a FC25FB and a Titan XD Diesel. The CAT scale shows the 1000# bars can barely restore my front axle weight while using the 11th link from the loose end of the chains with only 1-1/2 links showing under the latches. Moving up to the 11th link and restoring the full front axle weight greatly improved the handling. I would describe the 11th link feeling as the Airstream is now riding on the bars rather than on the truck springs. This is a great feeling and eliminated the bowpush I used to feel when large vehicles blew past me. I would buy 1500# bars for a 30' based on my experience.

I couldn't lift the rear end of my F-250 with the trailer jack high enough to hook up to the 11th link. Furthermore I would need an extension on the breaker bar to tighten the chain.
In short, it would be physically impossible for me to achieve what you are describing.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

I couldn't lift the rear end of my F-250 with the trailer jack high enough to hook up to the 11th link. Furthermore I would need an extension on the breaker bar to tighten the chain.
In short, it would be physically impossible for me to achieve what you are describing.

I believe hooking up the 11th link may be difficult on many rigs. My 4000# jack extends farther than the old 3000# jack and I can just achieve the 11th link. I also use a 30" 3/4-drive breaker bar to connect the bars. A trick I have used is to drive the rear wheels of the tow vehicle up on my 4" high levelers to get more lift with a shorter lift jack. Another solution would be to move up to the next heavier bars rather than connecting to the 11th link. The point is that I had to restore my full steer axle weight to get a good feel with my blue ox and was able to do it on the 11th link with 1000# bars.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

I believe hooking up the 11th link may be difficult on many rigs. My 4000# jack extends farther than the old 3000# jack and I can just achieve the 11th link. I also use a 30" 3/4-drive breaker bar to connect the bars. A trick I have used is to drive the rear wheels of the tow vehicle up on my 4" high levelers to get more lift with a shorter lift jack. Another solution would be to move up to the next heavier bars rather than connecting to the 11th link. The point is that I had to restore my full steer axle weight to get a good feel with my blue ox and was able to do it on the 11th link with 1000# bars.

Got it :-)