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Old 11-08-2014, 07:34 PM   #15
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I have owned a 2000 diesel excursion since 2003, bought with 30k miles now has 125k.
This has been primarily a tow vehicle, towing 20 ft work trailers, our 1970 31' airstream and a 35' cigarette boat (12,000lbs). As others have said, general maintenace items have been replaced with premium parts as they wore out, (shocks, ball joints, steering stabilizer, tie rods ect). These are great trucks but have been notorious for excessive front end wear.

OK, real world experience. This truck has the nickname "white knuckle express" for what really happens at 65 when passing or being passed by the big rigs. I think I have finally tamed the beast this year.

Most notable improvements:
E rated tires=stiffer side walls
Tightening the stearing box, it can be done rather easily, if you overdo it you will know.
Replacing the front sway bar with a hellwig and installing a rear heavy duty sway bar, name unknown the moment. This has made the largest noticeable difference when towing. The rear bounce when hitting a bump (like going over rr tracks) has been drastically eliminated, which I feel keeps the front end solid on the ground where it belongs.

I have had to fix, repair and upgrade within my means over the years. These excursions are awesome and capable towing beasts. It seems they have become quite popular as of late, I continually am asked if it for sale.

hope this has helped,
cale
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:57 AM   #16
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I'm going with try it first. You may find you don't have to do anything.
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:07 AM   #17
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Lower it and get rid of redneck mud tires. Sway bars and better shocks should help some. Mine is stock 2WD and I have done none of this. I would like it to stay in the road better. I expect it being higher is going to make the wandering issues greater. Mine is actually more stable towing that driving empty. I would not add springs but make sure you have a good load distributing hitch. Some bounce will save your trailer from being shaken apart by stiff springs. We love our 2000 2WD V10 Excursion. It loves gas but maintenance is minimal.

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Old 11-10-2014, 08:08 AM   #18
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I would start with what cale said.
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:53 PM   #19
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This thread triggered a memory, so I went looking. Google "Landyot radius rods". The Hellwig rear sway bar is a popular modification also.

The Excursions are big, but they do seem to require some fine tuning to tow well.
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Old 12-13-2014, 08:35 PM   #20
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So this is how I'm sitting, couple inches lower then I'd like, just got the camper today so I have not made much adjustments, hitch is a Propride. The front end had a little float in it, I just had the steering box replaced.

Thoughts?

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wkTCqYwKytU/VIz0EkL0Z_I/AAAAAAAAADc/UwZKNdSWFD8/s144/image.jpg
[/IMG]

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Old 12-13-2014, 09:05 PM   #21
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:07 PM   #22
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:08 PM   #23
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:08 PM   #24
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I give up on images
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:13 PM   #25
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To rough in the vehicle lashup is to measure wheelwell fender height. Crank the bars so that this number is the same once hitched at the Steer Axle.

Proceed to a certified scale to dial in. One wants full fuel in the TV and sand bags or other to simulate passenger and gear load. TT needs full fresh water and propane. Approximate the usual gear and supply load.

Three passes across scale. Once with hitch roughed in as above. Second time is across scale with WD fully slack. Third is to drop TT and go across scale to get the TV weight. With these three scale tickets one can determine needed FALR (front axle load restoration).

Some hitch adjustment may be needed. Be painstaking as future adjustments will be small if lash up is done well at first.

It may be that the rear of the TV is down slightly even after FALR. Not important, generally. What IS important is that the TT is level.

With a level TT and close FALR then one might decide suspension mods could be tried. But one has -- by the above -- the necessary numbers to help in that evaluation. There is no way around setting a numerical baseline to make decent decisions, IMO.

The truck payload may change, etc. Some spring mods are not so great when using a WDH. But that is ways off

Find a CAT Scale after loading the vehicles appropriately and doing a rough-in via fender measurements at home. Adjust the hitch according to directions for FALR. Re-take front and rear fender well measurements.

Those numbers of measurement and weight are what to post. Pics of the rig showing the hitch and part of the vehicles, and then of the combined rig as a whole. Find some nice level ground.
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:23 PM   #26
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:28 PM   #27
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:51 AM   #28
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Thumbs up Crank more WD...

Ted,

The rig doesn't look level to me, both AS & TV.

Have you taken measurements or been to the scales?

Towing priority.

LT tires on the TV. D or E rated.

Class V or IV hitch/receiver, set-uo properly with WD and sway.

Tight suspension..... shocks, ball joints, bushings, steering etc.

Check the front and rear TV axle ratings,(usually on the driver door jamb sticker), to determine payload limits.

IMHO...leave the add-on Roadmaster,(helper springs) and air-bags,(elevators) on the shelf. They really don't add payload or aid in towing.



Bob
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