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Old 12-02-2015, 12:39 PM   #15
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I use an equalizer however my first choice was Anderson. Then noticed the following note on their website. Copy & Paste:
NOTE: Currently the Atwood 88007, 88010, 88555 and 88600 couplers are not compatible with the Andersen WD Hitch (all other Atwood couplers are fine).
I have a 2015 Sport Bambi & Anderson was not compatible with my coupler. Was afraid to use it after reading reviews with the Airstream coupler on my 2015 Sport.



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Old 12-02-2015, 12:48 PM   #16
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Minor HIJACK

Welcome aboard, clearly you are new to Airstream RV'ing.

May I suggest that you join the local WBCCI - which in your area should be the FCU (four corners unit). By all reports they are a very active, very good Airstreaming club. Go to the SEARCH function and on the Google Search line put in FCU Rally and you'll probably get a good preview of what the club is all about.

They welcome new members gladly and many will assist you with the 5000 or so questions that normally come up in the first couple of months of ownership.

Here's one of my "keep it simple" fixes - toilet paper roll unrolls while traveling down the road. Take it off the roller, squish it flat, put it back on the roller where it will be available but not roll easily. When you arrive at the destination and park, re-squish it at 90 degrees from the original squish so that it'll roll again.

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Old 12-02-2015, 01:42 PM   #17
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Any thought on the newer electronic sway controllers such as the Tuson sway controller? (works with selective trailer braking).
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:52 PM   #18
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Opinions on the equalizer system?
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:40 PM   #19
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It depends on a lot of variables. Tongue weight, tires, loaded trailer weight. I have added air ride suspension on my truck. I get a better ride with my trailer with out the weight distribution bars. Also do not utilize sway bar breaking system. It is what you are most comfortable with. Every serious operator of a towed vehicle should get a tongue weight scale. This will aid in properly loading your trailer and will give you a better tow.
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU1981 View Post
Opinions on the equalizer system?
I had the Equalizer hitch on my ’03 23’ International and it handled the trailer flawlessly... on my ’05 Classic (30’), it was OK... (wasn’t the same EQ but one with a higher tow rating). I often thought a Hensley or a Propride would have been swell, if you get my drift. I never felt that I was loosing control but it didn’t feel as secure as it did on my 23’. Could have been the set-up and adjustments...

On my 34’ Classic, I have a Reese Straight Line hitch and it feels very secure in over 4K mile towing through the Cumberland Gap from Rhode Island to the coast of Texas.

The EQ hitch was a good hitch, noisy at times, but a good hitch system.
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:38 AM   #21
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We just bought a 1964 Overlander (26') and have started a total renovation. Original dry weight was <4,000 lb. Dry weight after reno is of course unknown at this point, but should be under 4,500 lb. TV is a 2009 F-150 with 4.6L 3V and a tow package. All this talk about $2,000+ hitches makes me a bit queasy ;-) Please tell me we can tow safely without such a huge hit to the budget :-0
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:03 AM   #22
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Any WD hitch with sway built in or added will do you just fine. People have used these for decades. I use a eazlift with sway bars. Recommended by the Canadian dealer that does so many setups. Not three thousand dollars, more like three hundred. Some of us just can't afford all the high tech stuff. You might be a little under powered, try it and see.
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Hello. I just got my tow vehicle and 1969 Airstream Globetrotter. It's all original except for new air conditioner and updated pvc plumbing (so far) and in the manual it states it weighs 3330 dry. I am towing with a 2016 Nissan Frontier with a full tow package and 4x4. However, I still am unsure what sway bars are and if I need them. I travel mostly alone and it scares my family (it's only been a couple months) so I want to get lots of safety features to ease their concerns. I just don't know if I need sway bars- or even what they are.

Lindsay,

It's not e=mc2.....but it can be cornfusing.

This may help

This also.... the scale is not an absolute necessity...but it does help.




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Old 12-03-2015, 11:38 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caroyl View Post
We just bought a 1964 Overlander (26') and have started a total renovation. Original dry weight was <4,000 lb. Dry weight after reno is of course unknown at this point, but should be under 4,500 lb. TV is a 2009 F-150 with 4.6L 3V and a tow package. All this talk about $2,000+ hitches makes me a bit queasy ;-) Please tell me we can tow safely without such a huge hit to the budget :-0
.
We had a 1977 International 27’ that we towed with a F-150 eco-boost and used the reese straightline hitch - performed superbly - no sway at all, good weight distribution. Got it on craigslist for about $200 in almost new condition. I believe it would have cost close to $500 new... probably find one cheaper on-line.

Abosolutely no reason for you to spend even close to $1K for a hitch for your trailer. Check out what your tongue weight is because that adds to what your payload weight is (400lbs?). That plus people & gear could put you over your payload capacity. The truck should have no problems towing 4,500 lbs (make sure you balance out weight inside the trailer on your renovation).

Good luck in your restoration!
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:54 PM   #25
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I spent $1,200 bucks for my used hitch, it was some of the best money I have spent on my trailer.




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Old 12-03-2015, 01:31 PM   #26
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$1,200 used has to be a ProPride or Hensley-


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Old 12-03-2015, 02:59 PM   #27
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$1,200 used has to be a ProPride or Hensley-


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Yep, a Hensley, but I would have bought either. Used private transfer ProPrides don't come onto the market much.


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Old 12-03-2015, 04:13 PM   #28
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Dats because we plan to move them from trailer to trailer.....


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