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SteveSueMac · 08-04-2014, 05:14 PM

You're most welcome!

While I'm spending your money :-)

You need those red wall radials on your truck and a similar patterned pin stripe.

:-)

Seriously - I love the look of your trailer. Very fun!

J. Morgan · 08-04-2014, 07:34 PM

The red line tires would look boss with some vintage style baby moon hubcaps and some beauty rings.

I have held off on the caps and rings because I was seriously considering going to 16" wheels.....

But so far I have had pretty good luck with with the 15s so I am thinking I might just order the caps and rings.

russellsue · 08-29-2014, 04:56 PM

I hate to run salt in a wound I have just gotten back from a 600 mile trip average speed 55-60 mph rain, crosswinds, tractor trailers, stop and go traffic, bumpy roads etc. I did not at any time experience any sway of loss of control. I had a anti sway friction bar in use, no WDS. I spoke with other people in the know and they said it was not needed considering the tow vehicle and the trailer. After this trip I will not waste money. I think the manufacturers have put this fear in a lot of people. Forget the numbers the driving expericence tells all. I guess if you have a heavy camper then perhaps it might be needed, but when the tow vehicle out weights the trailer by about 2,000 lb it is not needed If people find solace in a WDES then they should have them.

J. Morgan · 08-29-2014, 05:03 PM

I never did get sway pulling my trailer on the ball at 60 or below, maybe a little at 65, more pronounced above 65.

My 1/2 ton did not NEED WD, too heavy on the rear or too light on the front never was an issue.

The extra 16" my trailer sits back with my Hensley causes WD to be needed. This leverage changed things.

SteveSueMac · 08-29-2014, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by russellsue

I hate to run salt in a wound I have just gotten back from a 600 mile trip average speed 55-60 mph rain, crosswinds, tractor trailers, stop and go traffic, bumpy roads etc. I did not at any time experience any sway of loss of control. I had a anti sway friction bar in use, no WDS. I spoke with other people in the know and they said it was not needed considering the tow vehicle and the trailer. After this trip I will not waste money. I think the manufacturers have put this fear in a lot of people. Forget the numbers the driving expericence tells all. I guess if you have a heavy camper then perhaps it might be needed, but when the tow vehicle out weights the trailer by about 2,000 lb it is not needed If people find solace in a WDES then they should have them.

Doesn't feel like salt/wounds to me.

Were you able to weigh things at all? Dznf0g (who knows GM products) mentioned your truck needs WD if tongue>600#. If you're under that, you might be fine as is. The sway bar hopefully did its job helping you experience a fairly smooth non-sway trip - that's good! Driving 55-60 vs 75-80 certainly makes a contribution there too.

Stay safe - happy camping!

russellsue · 08-30-2014, 01:51 PM

Tongue weight according to several sources empty is about 420. I dont really have anything of substance in the camper a small tv, a few pots and pans, personal items ,and a few clothes. heavy items are in the bed of the tow vehicle spare tire, cook stove/oven combo ,empty blue boy tank. my intentions are not to upset anybody or start an argument. This is my choose and I HAVE done research and talked with serveral people that know a lot more then I do. I have had 8 campers some weighted as much as 6800lb, and I did have a WDS. I have also had shasta's that weighed less then 2000 lbs. I guess some would still insist a WDS would be needed . I do respect everybodys opinion. Its not the money issue its that I from the old school that why spend $500.00 or more for something that is not needed.

switz · 08-31-2014, 08:19 AM

I think it would be prudent to take two passes across the CAT scales loaded for camping to determine what the real tongue weight is for two reasons. The Airstream literature has been known to be wildly optimistic with low ball tongue weight numbers. In that era, sadly each trailer was unique, as has been reported many times on the forum. Thus, there could be differences in weights between two similar models.

So knowing the actual tongue weight would give you a reference to insure the tow vehicle hitch ratings are not exceeded.

The second reason would be to verify that you have at least 10% (to a high of 15%) of the total weight of the trailer on the hitch ball so it will naturally tow properly.

The cost at the scales would be under $15 to have real numbers at hand. If there were ever an accident, you would have a verifiable proof that the tow vehicle and trailer were within load specifications as you typically loaded them. Heads off an adjuster or lawyer saying the unit was overloaded and caused the accident....

beiland · 10-07-2014, 09:45 PM

Brand new to the forums and trying to gain a little knowledge about weight distribution hitches rather quickly as I have just loaded up a 21 foot dual axel cargo trailer to tow south from DC to St Augustne with my older 1985 Ford 250 Econoline van that came with a factory tow package. (At one point in its early life it had been used as a race car towing van).

I've discovered that I have just a bit more tongue weight than I would like to have, but as an alternative to readjusting my whole beautifully loaded trailer, I am considering adding a Reese weight distribution hitch a friend has. It's rated for 10,000 lbs, and has 750 lb trunnion bars.

I believe this is a little bit more than I need, but here is the question I would like to have answered:

1) Can the 'equalizing' effect of these 750 lb bars be lessened, just slightly, by using a notch or so less tensioning of the chain at the bar's tip-to-trailer frame location?

2) Also exactly how tough is it to attach these chains initially?