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Old 06-01-2017, 12:49 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaTravelers View Post
I pull my 28 International with an equalizer and an F250 - hardly know she's behind me.
That can't be possible !
You gotahave the PropPride (comes with a 23 page installation instruction) or a Hensley for that :-).
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:38 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by franklyfrank View Post
That can't be possible !
You gotahave the PropPride (comes with a 23 page installation instruction) or a Hensley for that :-).
Hi

You notice it a lot less after you knock the rear view mirror off the windshield (Yes indeed, been there / done that .... more than once !!)

Bob
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Old 06-02-2017, 06:33 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dashwa View Post
The best (and only except for Hensley) Anti-sway hitch is the ProPride 3P Hitch. Blue Ox, etc. are NOT anti-sway. Reason: you still have the ball hitch swivel point; therefore, the trailer can initiate movement side to side, which you want to eliminate. Only your tow vehicle should initiate movement, e.g., for a turn or when backing up. The equalizer bars will create some stability if adjusted properly, but they will not eliminate sway. You get a strong enough side force and it will sway and possibly fishtail. I tow a 30' Classic with a 3500 Duramax Silverado with zero issues no matter what the side force is.
Dashwa- before making this claim, I suggest you research the data on these WDH hitches; Many of these units have anit-sway built in. I have used 3 hitches, including Reese, Equalizer, and 2 Blue-Ox over the years. All 3 do the job and all are rated with both weight distribution and anti-sway control.

Currently, I am looking at a new Blue-Ox or Equalizer for my new 28', picking up next week. Even though I just purchased a new F250, I want a the WDH with Antisway in my hitch assembly. I will disable the electronic anti-sway in the truck when I tow, unless someone has a better suggestion?
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Old 06-02-2017, 07:33 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
..... I will disable the electronic anti-sway in the truck when I tow, unless someone has a better suggestion?
Hi

I believe the anti-sway in the truck is mainly a feed into the brakes. The hitches should get along with it pretty well.

Bob
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Old 06-02-2017, 07:47 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
Currently, I am looking at a new Blue-Ox or Equalizer for my new 28', picking up next week. Even though I just purchased a new F250, I want a the WDH with Antisway in my hitch assembly. I will disable the electronic anti-sway in the truck when I tow, unless someone has a better suggestion?
My 30' International Sig came with a Blue Ox so that's what I use with my Ram 2500. I use it for the sway more than the WD because the AS doesn't get close on any of the weight ratings for the truck.

I've towed around 8k miles so far on 8-10 trips including through the mountains of NC and I'm very happy with the setup and ease of connections.
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:10 AM   #34
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I think it is important to look at the two features a good hitch system offers, weight distribution and sway control. Not all hitches do both equally well.

Insufficient w.d. is a reason many people are unhappy with the stability of their tow vehicle, and it's ability to carry hitch and bed loads. With good w.d. the sway control device may not be as important because the steering axle does not "float", and the tow vehicle can carry more load if the load is well distributed on it's axles and a portion transferred to the trailer axles. Tapered w.d. bar design will give a better ride and transfer less shock, and put less stress on the trailer A-frame and tow vehicle receiver.

Sway control systems vary in design and effectiveness, especially those hitches with built-in sway control. They are all designed to dampen and/or resist the lateral forces the trailer leverages from the receiver ball connection to the tow vehicle steering axle and keep the trailer from going into dangerous increasing oscillations. Except the Hensley/ProPride design which projects trailer lateral forces forward to the tow vehicle rear axle where they are stopped, not leveraged forward, like a fifth wheel or semi.

You will never have good w.d. and sway control unless the hitch system is set up and adjusted properly. (You will never know if you have good weight distribution unless you take the combination to a truck scale and weigh the load the individual tow vehicle and trailer axles are carrying.) Get expert help doing this, our experience is many RV dealers have no expertise. Many sell you a one-size-fits-all hitch that is simplest to install, get it installed as quickly as possible, and send you down the road.

The hitch expert most useful to you is yourself. Learn how these things work and how to set them up properly, and use a truck (CAT) scale to verify your adjustments are getting proper w.d. and not overloading any axle.
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:06 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waninae39 View Post
eaz-left has been working very well for me.
both weight distribution and sway control
heavier trailers should get two sway modules. lighter ones are fine with one
Just replaced my Hensley which blew up around the equalizer inserts.
Can-AM sold me an Equalizer just like this one. They suggested I should have 2 friction anti-sway units...I chose to go with one since that was enough on my other '89 25ft. I pulled 500 Km on two rallies without the anti-sway on yet. It is a bit squirrely in strong cross winds but nothing uncontrollable. I will be installing one Husky friction anti-sway before the next trip. It becomes very important in an emergency at high speeds on Interstates or evasive maneuvers
JCW

Sure do miss the Hensley. I will be posting pics of what happened
JCW
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:29 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCWDCW View Post
Just replaced my Hensley which blew up around the equalizer inserts.
Can-AM sold me an Equalizer just like this one. They suggested I should have 2 friction anti-sway units...I chose to go with one since that was enough on my other '89 25ft. I pulled 500 Km on two rallies without the anti-sway on yet. It is a bit squirrely in strong cross winds but nothing uncontrollable. I will be installing one Husky friction anti-sway before the next trip. It becomes very important in an emergency at high speeds on Interstates or evasive maneuvers
JCW

Sure do miss the Hensley. I will be posting pics of what happened
JCW
Aren't Hensleys lifetime warranted?

I'm guessing you're using "Equalizer" as a euphemism for "weight-distributing hitch" here because Equal-I-Zer hitches don't require separate friction sway control, it's built into the design of the hitch.
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:32 AM   #37
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Blue Ox vs Equalizer experience

My only experience with Equalizer was with my 2008 Safari which I bought used, and this WDH was on it. I used for a short time, and it buckled when I was backing up on a trip. Closest dealer only had Blue Ox in stock, so that's how I ended up with Blue Ox first time. Once you get the hang of setting it up, using your jack motor, it is not that difficult. Can startle or even scare some folks, if the tension is not relieved enough, prior using the breaker wrench supplied. I liked it a lot so I got a new one with our 2014 model, which we just sold. After 3 years and many miles pulling with that WDH, we had no issues and I believe having the spring bars connected to the chains, allow for more "forgiveness" towing when conditions push on the trailer. Also, never a problem backing up even when cranking the wheel. The dealer in Portland has both. I am getting the new Blue Ox again, I believe, but could be talked out of it if there is something better other than a $2k hitch..
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:33 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
I think it is important to look at the two features a good hitch system offers, weight distribution and sway control. Not all hitches do both equally well.

Insufficient w.d. is a reason many people are unhappy with the stability of their tow vehicle, and it's ability to carry hitch and bed loads. With good w.d. the sway control device may not be as important because the steering axle does not "float", and the tow vehicle can carry more load if the load is well distributed on it's axles and a portion transferred to the trailer axles. Tapered w.d. bar design will give a better ride and transfer less shock, and put less stress on the trailer A-frame and tow vehicle receiver.

Sway control systems vary in design and effectiveness, especially those hitches with built-in sway control. They are all designed to dampen and/or resist the lateral forces the trailer leverages from the receiver ball connection to the tow vehicle steering axle and keep the trailer from going into dangerous increasing oscillations. Except the Hensley/ProPride design which projects trailer lateral forces forward to the tow vehicle rear axle where they are stopped, not leveraged forward, like a fifth wheel or semi.

You will never have good w.d. and sway control unless the hitch system is set up and adjusted properly. (You will never know if you have good weight distribution unless you take the combination to a truck scale and weigh the load the individual tow vehicle and trailer axles are carrying.) Get expert help doing this, our experience is many RV dealers have no expertise. Many sell you a one-size-fits-all hitch that is simplest to install, get it installed as quickly as possible, and send you down the road.

The hitch expert most useful to you is yourself. Learn how these things work and how to set them up properly, and use a truck (CAT) scale to verify your adjustments are getting proper w.d. and not overloading any axle.
Good advice!
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:50 AM   #39
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I have towed with a horrible cheap equalizer hitch connected to a dangerous high center of gravity, terrible antiquated solid axle, high maintenance cost 6.7 turbo diesel in a unstable long wheelbase F350 Platinum Supercrew with a unneeded massive payload with great success.We have been in sustained winds of 70mph,over the steepest mountain passes,gone around dangerous curves and cruised thru Montana pulling our 28ft International at a reckless 80mph with a CanAm ATV in the 8ft box and two Hobie Kayaks on the roof rack.We have been in numerous dangrerous situations that required immediate emergency maneuvers. We travel approximate 15-20k per year for the last 7 years and the trailer has never swayed.
I started pulling with a F150 Supercrew and quickly found it was not for us.Traded for a new 2012 F350 6.7 then traded for a new 2015 F350 6.7 and just received our new 2017 F350 6.7.Will not go back to a F150.
When people on this forum tell you that a F150 (or equivalent)is all you need I can tell you from experience there is a tremendous difference in the towing experience going to a Superduty truck with the heavier tongue weight trailers like the 28ft! All these self proclaimed experts on this forum that preach towing while exceeding the manufacturers payload ratings is acceptable if you weld on this or modify that or put on a magic expensive hitch and so on ........ have not ever towed with a vehicle that was specifically built for this type of towing application.Not everyone needs a F250 or F350 its true but some of us do..........Under powered tow vehicles are another story!
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:54 AM   #40
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I still feel perfectly comfortable and safe towing a 30' Classic with a Tundra and Equal-i-zer. I'm happy.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:36 PM   #41
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A long wheelbase, heavy duty pickup truck is only needed for carrying heavy loads when towing an Airstream. Towing stability is the function of a good weight distribution hitch and setup. If heavy duty pickups were really designed for towing, the hitch connection would be at the rear axle, not behind the rear bumper.

The least expensive hitch is probably a simple Eaze-Lift with separate friction sway control devices. With the tow vehicle properly set up to support a w.d. hitch, it's as good as you can get in conventional hitches. It can provide all the w.d. you need, has the flexibility to ride smoothly and absorb severe road shock, and the sway friction can be adjusted as needed, or friction can be reduced for safe towing on icy roads without losing any of its weight distribution function.

The most expensive hitch is a Hensley/ProPride. It uses standard tapered w.d. bars, but the the sway elimination design is completely different than all others. It projects the ball connection forward so the trailer cannot leverage sway inputs to the tow vehicle steering. Is it worth it? If the other choice is spending tens of thousands of dollars on a larger truck because you are unhappy with the stability of your present tow vehicle, it's dirt cheap. For those who have a heavy duty pickup, it corrects a design weakness by moving the trailer pivot point forward to the truck's rear axle.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:42 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
My only experience with Equalizer was with my 2008 Safari which I bought used, and this WDH was on it. I used for a short time, and it buckled when I was backing up on a trip. Closest dealer only had Blue Ox in stock, so that's how I ended up with Blue Ox first time. Once you get the hang of setting it up, using your jack motor, it is not that difficult. Can startle or even scare some folks, if the tension is not relieved enough, prior using the breaker wrench supplied. I liked it a lot so I got a new one with our 2014 model, which we just sold. After 3 years and many miles pulling with that WDH, we had no issues and I believe having the spring bars connected to the chains, allow for more "forgiveness" towing when conditions push on the trailer. Also, never a problem backing up even when cranking the wheel. The dealer in Portland has both. I am getting the new Blue Ox again, I believe, but could be talked out of it if there is something better other than a $2k hitch..


I keep a 2' socket wrench in my AS side box just for this purpose. Gives me a lot more torque and grip for hooking up or unhooking. I can eyeball the hitch as it goes up with the jack and I know where to stop so it will hook/unhook really easy.
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