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NWRVR · 05-14-2015, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

NWRVR

How does that set up tow? I have an 2007 LR3 V8 HSE and so far have not even tried my 25ftRB with it. I am think of upgrading to a RR or LR4 next year but have not been feeling so great about the ability to tow my AS, any experiences you can share would be greatly appreciated!

I am not familiar with the LR3 specs but LolaT says her LR3 has the same weight limits as my RR HSE which is rated for 550 lbs TW and 7,700 lbs trailer weight. Provided you have the V8 and same transmission and differentials as mine it should handle the 25RB fine. My 25FB has more TW (833 lbs) to deal with which the Blue Ox Sway Pro handles on my rig. My TV weighs 6,100 lbs which also helps.

I spoke with my Land Rover service tech giving him the details of the tow and WD set up before proceeding and he along with another tech reassured me that the RR HSE would not have a problem towing the AS to my satisfaction and so far they are right. I suggest that you also ask Land Rover service techs about the specifics of your AS and WD/Sway Control setup to get there opinion.

LolaT · 05-14-2015, 07:38 AM

This is the LR Quick-Release Receiver

(Although it says 550 max tongue weight on the pages description, I think that's taken from the manual. The hitch itself has 770 max tongue weight on it).
Haven't found any other options other than the Curt (dropping down to 600 lbs max tongue weight) that might inspire more confidence, so it looks like we are just going with the LR one. I guess the Westphalia is only for the RR.

Gsmblue · 05-14-2015, 08:16 AM

NWRVR,

Thanks for that info, super helpful!

fyi: Both the LR3 and the RR use the same quick release receiver. The stamp on the receiver states 770lbs TW but the manual states 550lbs TW. This issue is discussed ad nauseam on the various Land Rover forums with little resolution.

NWRVR · 05-14-2015, 08:23 AM

LolaT, this is the first time that I have seen this type of receiver. I would go with the LR3 tongue limit of 550 lbs as the quick release receiver's higher rating may be for another application.

NWRVR · 05-14-2015, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

NWRVR,

Thanks for that info, super helpful!

fyi: Both the LR3 and the RR use the same quick release receiver. The stamp on the receiver states 770lbs TW but the manual states 550lbs TW. This issue is discussed ad nauseam on the various Land Rover forums with little resolution.

The quick-release receiver website shows this type of receiver for LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Supercharged. My '08 Range Rover HSE has an exposed tubular Westphalia hitch with an integral 2" receiver. I also found that this model LR was not pre-wired for the electric brake controller so maybe the hitch is an option.

Gsmblue · 05-14-2015, 09:09 AM

NWRVR - can you post a pic of what your receiver looks like?

NWRVR · 05-14-2015, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsmblue

NWRVR - can you post a pic of what your receiver looks like?

I am having problems (operator problem I am certain) uploading multiple photos so will do one at a time. If you google the part number KN1500020 the receiver comes up on Roverlandparts.com and landroverpartsinternational.com

Gsmblue · 05-14-2015, 12:52 PM

Thanks for the pic, this is a completely different system to th LR3/LR4/RRS.

LolaT · 05-24-2015, 08:02 PM

Just wanted to update on our final setup. Everything worked great except the LED trailer light adapter. We had flickering lights, but we just need to get a different one and it should be OK. Drove from Boise to Idaho. No issues.

Oh, we also got the RVS backup camera just in the nick of time. We had to have it shipped to the dealership where we were picking up the AS. The only place where the magnet would hold was on top of the hitch receiver. But it was helpful. We even figured out we could put it between the back window and the screen to see behind us for a while until it ran out of battery.

NWRVR · 05-25-2015, 12:13 AM

Looks good, congratulations. Let us know how the rig tows. Did you add tow mirrors? I found that the standard LR mirrors do not extend sufficiently to see along side the AS, especially when backing. Also I power my RVS camera from the 12V plug above the DVD. Very handy backing and seeing tailgaters when driving. Safe travels and enjoy!

Gsmblue · 05-25-2015, 10:04 AM

Fantastic!

Looking at the first picture, I think the chains should be crossed under the shank to cradle it.

I hope that makes sense and maybe a more experienced person can take a look at comment.

Keep us posted with how it pulls!!

LolaT · 05-25-2015, 10:53 AM

That's funny, I just realized I typed that we drove from Boise to Idaho! ... from Boise to Salt Lake, duh.

I think it pulled well. My husband did most of the driving. (I think I might be a better driver, but I am more anxiety-ridden about these things). We drove about 65mph even though it was 70-80mph speed limit most of the way until you get on I-15 which is 70mph limit, but may as well be more like 85. It was very weird to be passed constantly on both sides of the freeway. I-15 is like 7 lanes wide through Salt Lake. There was, what we thought was a crazy stalker person that was matching our speed for a minute but it was only to give us an enthusiastic thumbs up.

I did drive it on the smaller 2-lane highway for about two hours and I survived, of course I didn't have to brake a whole lot or do much other than drive straight. Nothing much happened when passed by semi's. There was slight wobbling at times which I think was just the road. I got a bit nervous during a five-minute torrential downpour but everything was fine. Notice how my towing report is all about my emotional state of mind. Ha ha.

OK, for the technicalities. We did get the Milenco mirrors and that worked well although one of them seems to have a lot of distortion. We averaged about 12.8 mpg. We were able to go up hills between 50-60ish mph. RPM got a bit high when going up. It might have been better to switch to manual transmission but we didn't. We'd just let off the gas a bit to let it shift. We tried cruise control for a bit but it drove too aggressively.

The hubby installed the Blue Ox at the dealership with a few pointers from the service guy. We sort of tried to cross the chains but, this way seemed better as there is only one place to hook them right on the center on the LR3. ?? We were also able to stop at a weigh station before heading back. The numbers seem to indicate the WD is doing it's job. We probably need to have a better understanding of the report though and I would still like to know what the tongue weight is with the WD.

And last, it took us, hubby driving, three attempts to back up into our first campground. We were a bit crooked but good enough. We were also able to use the Andersen levelers successfully without driving over them and breaking them. : ) Ironically, and much to my surprise, we were able to back into our side yard, through a ten foot gate opening and two turns, with only one try which I thought would be a much harder if not impossible feat.

[At this point in time, I went in the house and ate a sandwich. Came out later and our brains were rejuvenated. We figured out the correct angle to turn the wheels on the car to get it the rest of the way in without ripping off the front awing arm. Driving forward was not an option. There's a large tree and mounded up flower bed there. The hubby only drove over three mature bushes but I think they'll recover.]

NWRVR · 05-25-2015, 11:32 AM

Well done! Backing through a 10' opening on the first attempt is more than a lot of experienced Streamers can do.

I too will go to manual shifting in mountain terrain to keep the RPMs where I want them and have more engine braking on the downhill side.

Gsmblue · 05-28-2015, 10:08 AM

Great job on the parking, maybe you can do mine for me!

I was thinking about the chains, I went outside to grab a picture of my LR3 receiver but the wife took it to work... grrrr...

Anyhow, I did find this picture on the interwebs of a LR4 and the location of the safety chain hooks, they are either side of where you insert the receiver.

As I could not check mine, I am not sure if the chain hooks will hook in ok, or whether you have to use shackles as in the pic I found.

Either way I thought this might help!

blkmagikca · 06-06-2015, 01:26 PM

The chains should be crossed, as they act as a cradle in the event that the TT comes off the hitch. Absent this cradle, if the TT comes off the hitch, it will drive into the ground and the damage it will cause to your TV will be expensive.

Looking at the photo, what are you using for sway control? I remember when I towed a 19-foot SOB with a Madza MPV with just a weight equalizing hitch, at 55 mph it was OK, but at 60 mph I was white-knuckled. When I went to a heavier TV with the same SOB, it was OK at 60 mph. My present setup is the Reese with the dual-cam sway control. The dual-cam is dynamic - the cams exert force to straighten you out, unlike the friction type which only adds friction to stop any motion, but does not try to return you to a straight line.

LolaT · 06-06-2015, 02:05 PM

There is literally one loop for both of the chains to hook onto. Thus the issue with crossing them.
We're using the Blue Ox Sway Pro. We tried to stay at 65mph and maybe went as fast as 70mph which was fine.

Tincampers · 06-06-2015, 02:21 PM

Can you route the chains to the loop so that there is a chain on either side of the hitch mount?

idroba · 06-06-2015, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LolaT

There is literally one loop for both of the chains to hook onto. Thus the issue with crossing them.
We're using the Blue Ox Sway Pro. We tried to stay at 65mph and maybe went as fast as 70mph which was fine.

We have been through this in another post in the past. Airstream now attaches the chains to one single point under the hitch, behind the ball. The chains cannot be "crossed" to catch the hitch. You cannot cross something which starts at a single point.

My 2014 FC 20 has the same setup, one point chain attachment. Someone jumped on me for not "crossing my chains". It cannot be done without re inventing the attachment point which the factory supplies.

HowieE · 06-06-2015, 05:20 PM

The reason for crossing the chains under the hitch is so the chains will support the trailer if the hitch brakes. You could route them outside the bars as they are now and then cross them under the hitch. There separation outside the bars may give you the support they were intended to provide Another reason for crossing the chains, and not in your case because of a single attachment point at the TV, is to maintain them at the shortest possible length while allowing for turning.
I would suggest replacing the pull wire on the breakaway switch and routing it through a D coupler at the top of the stinger. The length should be short enough to ensure the break are activated before the chains are maxed out if there is a hitch/receaver failure. Routing across the top of the stinger, the pivot point, ensures it can' be snagged and pulled out while driving.
I hate to say this but you have no sway control with that system and I am not sure he Ox offers any.

blkmagikca · 06-06-2015, 05:51 PM

HowieE confirms what I've said. You have a lot of investment and safety involved against the additional cost of about $500. If you ever have to make some unexpected evasive maneuver to avoid an accident (as I once had to), you will give thanks to the Lord that you had the proper hitch/sway control setup. The old adage "better safe than sorry" really holds true in this instance. My personal preference is the the dual-cam sway control; properly set up, it is excellent. I had mine set up at JC. Given that there are a number of RV dealers who may or may not know how to do this, you would be advised to call Reese directly for a recommended hitch shop.