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Old 02-11-2012, 08:55 PM   #127
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My Set up and scale measurements

I actually set my rig up about 6 months ago when I installed the Reese dual cam after reading through the threads here (thanks as always to the community for the free-flowing advice!
The PO had installed an EZ lift with 1000# bars but it had no sway control. I ordered the Reese hitch from E-trailer who recommended 1200# bars. Then I read a few more threads here about rigging “too heavy” and ordered 800# bars before the install. If anyone needs 1200# bars, I have a couple of new ones! It took me a day to get the install right. I used the street around the corner (flat and level) for the work. Then I took another day to cycle through the local scales which is a privately held old single platform scale used locally for gravel and grain trucks. When I went over to get weighed, the operator was grouchy and said that she wouldn’t do any of the fancy (left side right side) weighing as it had a tendency to cause the scale to stick. After a few cycles around the building adjusting the hitch on each cycle, she (the operator) became interested in the process and looked over the numbers with me. She only charged me for one pass through the scales which was nice. Based on the original numbers, I went back a few days later with refinements and the hitch angle at max (setting 6). The AS was loaded with water/LP, truck full tank 44 gal of diesel (after taking out a loan at Wells Fargo to finance the fill). Driver only passenger in truck. I haven’t weighed the hitch at the ball yet.
2002 Ford Excursion 7.3 D GVWR 9950 Front GAW 4700 Rear GAW 5250 Trailer max 11000
2008 28FB CCD 7600 GVWR
Front Rear Trailer
Truck Only
4120 4220 N/A
No WD (Measured a few days earlier, not in series)
4040 5180 5900
WD 5 links
4000 5300 5740
WD 4 links (I travel with this set up)
4280 4880 5880
I’ve included some pictures of the setup which seems to be working well after a few thousand miles. The last measurements put me 520# under GAW front and 320# under GAW rear. I thought about going to 3 links but limiting the bar travel that much didn’t seem to be a good idea. If you have any ideas about this, let me know. I’m already at max tilt on the head.
The trailer bounces gently when the TV hits bumps. The only real issue I’ve had (besides scaring everyone inside and outside the truck when the cams disengage with a BANG) are that the self-threading bolts on one of the sway arms loosened and I actually lost one. I changed to grade 8 bolts but the damage was done on one (frame stripped when the original bolt came loose) so I just installed nutserts from Air Craft Spruce on the side that came loose. I’ll let you know how they work out.
Brad
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:17 AM   #128
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Excellent numbers, and a great looking result, IMHO.
Nick.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:44 AM   #129
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I got a new truck. went from a tundra to a f250. Had to get a drop hitch. went to scales with first setup. steer 5020,drive 4440, trailer 6060, gross 15520.
trailer rode a little low. I raised the ball one hole and dropped one link. new numbers steer 5000, drive 4640, trailer 5980, gross 15620. it ride very nice and level. I can go up one link and even more level .
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:46 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by gtc6452 View Post
I got a new truck. went from a tundra to a f250. Had to get a drop hitch. went to scales with first setup. steer 5020,drive 4440, trailer 6060, gross 15520.
trailer rode a little low. I raised the ball one hole and dropped one link. new numbers steer 5000, drive 4640, trailer 5980, gross 15620. it ride very nice and level. I can go up one link and even more level .

Can't determine how much weight needs to be returned to the steering axle without a TV loaded weight un-hitched.

Bob
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:25 AM   #131
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Can't determine how much weight needs to be returned to the steering axle without a TV loaded weight un-hitched.

Bob
X2

All other weight values are sort of second-class citizens to the FA weights, hitched & unhitched.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:58 PM   #132
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Sorry,

A few questions.

"Loaded TV" :you mean fully loaded with gear and people? Ive thought about stopping in to the scales with a full load but I'd have to be sneaky and pull through while everyone is sleeping or fully engaged in a movie to avoid passenger unrest and complaining (teenagers), or engage several friends or sandbags to replace the real passengers.

FA: Please add a definition. I'm sure it's obvious but my blinders are thick!

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:24 PM   #133
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Sorry,

A few questions.

"Loaded TV" :you mean fully loaded with gear and people? Ive thought about stopping in to the scales with a full load but I'd have to be sneaky and pull through while everyone is sleeping or fully engaged in a movie to avoid passenger unrest and complaining (teenagers), or engage several friends or sandbags to replace the real passengers.

FA: Please add a definition. I'm sure it's obvious but my blinders are thick!

Thanks,

Brad
Brad,

FA=front axle

Yes... you want the tow vehicle loaded as close to the way you will be towing.
I did it late at night when the CAT scales weren't busy, dropped the trailer and got a good weight on our loaded Burb complete with DW and dog.
sandbags are an option.

Bob
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:42 PM   #134
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Thanks,
Then there's the 300 lbs of diesel fuel as a variable. I'l set up some more time to refine the measurements this spring. I might try to raise the ball a hole to be able to add a link but I'm afraid that hitch high will mean tail low albeit a half inch but I've already "tapped" the tail drags once or twice on high driveway entrances. Also the spec'd ball height is 17 1/2 and I'm already at 18 plus. Good news is that it all handles well and predictability as is but I want to ensure that it continues to so so in unexpected violent maneuvers.
Thanks for the guidance.
Brad
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:10 PM   #135
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I will get the truck weight unhitched.
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:32 PM   #136
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It's been a while since I did the hitch number crunching, so correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like Super's got a tongue weight of 960, and he's getting excellent steer axle re-load with 800# bars-- on a long wheelbase Excursion, no less.
Impressive.
Why is transfer so difficult on my 2500 'burb?
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:19 PM   #137
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Joe,

Am I missing something? I don't see a listed unhitched tongue weight,
Only calculated with wd set....
At 4 links the front axle is 160lbs over it's unloaded weight.
=================================================

I've not had a transfer problem with our Burb.
Arrow w/1000lb bars.
I'm a 100lbs light on the TV FA w/bars set. I have tried transfering, but that adds more weight to the trailer axles and really makes no difference towing.

Bob
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:21 PM   #138
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Supertrooper, I want to get other opinions on this, but it looks like the hitch head is tilted the wrong direction. It should be tilted down, so the the tension on the bar increases when the trailer turns on the ball.

As it is now, the tension will decrease if the trailer sways to the side losing benefits of the sway resistance of the hitch. I believe there also is a lifting pressure applied to the inside of the vehicles in a turn, opposite of what you would want.

There was a good article by Andrew Thomson in "Airstream Life" describing the effects of hitch head tilt, but I can't find it. It was referenced here on the forum a few months ago.

doug k
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:06 PM   #139
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Bob,

I just took the 'no WD' drive axle weight and subtracted 'truck only' drive axle weight to get tongue... right?

You know I'm using the Arrow... with 1400# bars I have to crank 'em up to max, just to get reload on steer axle
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:16 PM   #140
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Hi Doug.

The head is tilted back toward the trailer as far as it will go which was the only way I could get the WD bars aimed low enough to take some of the weight at 4 or 5 links.

Unless I've got it backwards in my mind.

Brad
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