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05-05-2017, 04:16 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,017
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With my 2000 silverado w/6.o engine, aauto trans. tires will spin without lite foot on throttle wet or dry. A lot depends on HP and rite foot, IMO. I have Yokahama geolander tires with lots of tread left. Bottom line easy on throttle if wet with or w/out any trailer in tow plus I don't have 411 gears in rear just lots HP.
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05-06-2017, 08:31 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2016 30' International
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover
The habit to have is to finish braking before turning wheel. No exceptions for any external cause. Any vehicle, and any time or speed.
Anyone needing to rotate premium tires on a pickup before 25-30k miles is possessed by a truly bad habit.
Brakes should last 70-100k miles.
Factor that in. Too fast into turns, and late braking.
Loss of control accidents with travel trailers are entered as "too fast for conditions". Driver skill or experience is moot.
On some turns wil be the need to re-engage throttle just past turn apex to bring the trailer back into a sort of cohesive balance with the TV. To bring it around. Not all turns, but it's an ideal.
Positive tension at the hitch ball by the TV. Anything else is a primary contributing cause of accidents. No slack except under straight line conditions.
Brake controller should engage trailer brakes "harder" to maintain this positive tension by the TV.
Late braking screws things up. Causes premature wear, for one. Two, the rig is vulnerable in a turn, and with brakes on even more so. Think other vehicles and slick road surface.
Towing means better habits.
All said, the above items listed for you to check are on par. A good list to start with.
And, damned funny signature.
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No doubt I have poor driving habits.
So I am practicing the brake-before-turn thing without a trailer connected. And I gotta say I'm driving way too fast.
Funny cause I never brake in a turn while cycling.
Lets hope I figure it out before the Rocky Mountains on our return trip to Los Angeles.
__________________
Randy and Beth 15 F250, 16 30' International, ProPride, Dexter 3" lift, Michelin 16, Dill TPMS, Centramatics, Battleborn x4, Victron BMV and 1.2KW inverter, Orion DC/DC, BlueSolar MPPT, 300W solar, Alpine iLX, Polk MM1, Samsung smart 42"
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05-06-2017, 08:57 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder
With my 2000 silverado w/6.o engine, aauto trans. tires will spin without lite foot on throttle wet or dry. A lot depends on HP and rite foot, IMO. I have Yokahama geolander tires with lots of tread left. Bottom line easy on throttle if wet with or w/out any trailer in tow plus I don't have 411 gears in rear just lots HP.
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I have never spun the tires on my silverado w/6.o engine, auto trans, 4:11 locking rear, and Michelin tires. I think I would dig 2 trenches on wet grass though.
__________________
The higher your expectations the fewer your options.
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05-06-2017, 09:41 AM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
2010 28' Flying Cloud
Escondido
, California
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 196
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Check your pro pride to insure all the bolts are tight to specs especially the ones on the rear triangle
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05-06-2017, 06:27 PM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
Chelsea
, Maine
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 380
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I first heard about "brake before turning" during a motorcycle safety course.
The instructor put it in simple terms.
You have (X) amount of traction. Steering uses a certain amount of traction (S). Braking uses a certain amount of traction (B). (S)+(B) can never exceed (X) without dire consequences, so don't do them together.
__________________
2023 Entegra Odyssey 26M
2017 FC 27FB
2017 F250 Lariat Crew Cab 6.2L
Equal-I-Zer 10K/1000
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05-06-2017, 09:18 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Like we were supposed to learn in driving school (that's a folly... perhaps "twist of the wrist" by Keith Code n is worth reading)
First, big picture
Second, proper entry speed... set up early. (There are posted recommended speeds on most corners)
Third, look THRU the turn...
Fourth, GRADUALLY roll in power... just enough to "stabilize" the rig..
Fifth, if the way is clear as you look thru the turn, keep steady throttle... if appropriate, slowly add power for a controlled exit, the. Set up for next turn
Braking once into a turn ... not the best choice... the result is the load behind the pivot point pushes the rear of the TV to the outside of the turn. That increases the turn angle of the TV. If not managed properly, jacknife or sway ensues... fresh shorts may be required....
As said before... you have $1.00 of traction... your traction management is your responsibility. Spend it all with dire possibilities...
If possible with your vehicle to manually engage the trailer brake... that can help "tighten" up the TV Trailer suspension ... have similar effect of judicious use of proper speed and throttle.
Oh, don't worry about those who may be following you... be careful for your sake... it may save you from crossing the line.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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05-15-2017, 02:59 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,455
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One of the things I was taught when learning how to drive in the mountains of TN.
Brake in, power out.
Too fast in pray for a good guard rail or you may go down the mountain head over heels.
__________________
Garry
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