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Old 04-25-2015, 12:04 PM   #15
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I've got a new shank for the hitch, and will be setting up sometime this weekend. Got the truck in a more level spot and I think the suspension is settling now after a few days, the rear isn't loaded but it's not showing that brand new 43 1/2 inches it's now sitting at 42 3/4th.
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:07 PM   #16
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Let us know how it works out, seems to be the thing you needed. I had to get a longer shank for my eazlift to work on my one ton. Too high for stock. Jim
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
I haven't seen Dodge recommendations on FALR. So I'd shoot for 100% as default.

Trailer tires to sidewall maximum.

Truck tires to within vehicle manufacturer door placard range.

Test TV tire pressure after 1.5-hrs steady state driving (minimal brake to come to a full stop). 5-7% pressure rise. More than 10% needs more air (5-psi at a time) per CapriRacer.

Too much air is detrimental to handling/braking despite some around here. Want to feel the rig -- as a whole -- start to come around "together". This is slower than when solo, obviously.

Second go round on scales ought to be in weighing wheel by wheel as per Bridgestone/RV Safety .pdf.

One can back off 100% FALR after weight imbalances are addressed.

In short, start with a numerical baseline and keep a file. The interaction of so many factors can make, one day, for difficulty diagnosing problems. Change the numbers with different adjustments one at a time, as you know, and test.

Good luck

You do not run max stated sidewall pressure in all trailer tires especially Michelins 16's which show 80psi.On my 28ft International I run 70psi with good results (20,000 plus miles)Check your load rating on the rear tires on your TV as these may need to be set to max inflation to handle the total load being placed on them.


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Old 04-26-2015, 08:38 AM   #18
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Lookin' good Bold.
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:25 PM   #19
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New Reese drop shank really helped things, got the trailer sitting perfectly level. Although finding level ground is easier said than done.



We ended up adjusting the chains one more notch after 20 mins of driving, and then things felt really smooth. We drove our first 408 miles, no problems. Air pressure in the new tires stayed perfect, checking about every hour and half.

Checked the torque on the hitch in the middle of the day and will probably double check the torque there one last time after tomorrows drive. All and all, very happy. I love the way these things tow when setup right.

I towed a 23ft Prowler across country in 09 and that thing was like pulling a brick. Slightest gust and you where all over.

We had semi's pass us a few times today, and it was like nothing happened.
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:29 PM   #20
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PS the old shank setup, for anyone who wants to see the difference between the two. I think I posted the new shank part # above.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:46 PM   #21
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As you go along: safety chains should be connected to truck frame, not hitch receiver. Same for breakaway switch. There's a decent thread on cables vs chains from a few years back with discussions and links.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:10 PM   #22
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I've heard this, but there is no where to attach chains or breakaway to the underside of the Ram that would not immediately come loose. Matter of fact, my breakaway won't reach underside of bumper without coming unplugged.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:21 PM   #23
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Also, for safety reason you can not use a lock on your hitch. I got pulled over for doing that. The reason is, if there is a fire or accident, you can quickly unhitch. And...don't you know on our way to Milwaukee last Summer we passed a truck and trailer and trailer was on fire. Men were quickly unhitching as family waited way off to the side. This was all before emergency help came.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:43 PM   #24
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And yet everywhere I go I see a lock on the hitch. What should I be using? A pin?

This is news to me, in all past businesses we always locked the trailer when hitched to the truck.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:48 PM   #25
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I use a pin type thing. Believe me, I was all about the lock, until getting pulled over. My hitch receiver is locked onto car, because when I had the tab twice my pin came out, whuch is a bad thing. Btw love your travel reports, and love your lifestyle.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:52 PM   #26
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Hmm... interesting, I'll look into that. Thanks.

I'll have to ask some of the other folks here at the Airstream park about the chains and stuff.
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:30 PM   #27
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Towing with the new setup: Bilsteins + TTC-1223 + Toyo 275/65R20

Quote:
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I've heard this, but there is no where to attach chains or breakaway to the underside of the Ram that would not immediately come loose. Matter of fact, my breakaway won't reach underside of bumper without coming unplugged.

Create your own. There are suppliers for these parts. Finding a welder the hardest part. New longer chains and extension for bswitch. Read the thread. DOT requirements for those of us who have used pickups falling under commercial requirements are used to this. Icing on the cake are chains that EACH can control the weight of the trailer (the way I read USDOT).

Looks like you have the OEM receiver. Not strong whether welded or bolted. Likely cannot achieve 100% FALR. But even if you upgrade and ran diagonal bracing, safety chains are not allowed as attached to receiver.

As I said, when you get to it. Full timing is a different, more exacting set of requirements.
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:48 AM   #28
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Quote:
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Looks like you have the OEM receiver. Not strong whether welded or bolted. Likely cannot achieve 100% FALR.
I have the factory hitch receiver and can achieve 100% FALR. No issues.
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