Towing with a spongy floor??

[Sum75]

Hello, everyone. I'm the proud owner of a 1957 Overlander. She has been mine for approx. 8 years. During that time I regret to say I have been neglectful. It pains me to say it.

Finally (hooray!!! ) I am going to bring her home to Southern California. I've arranged to have her towed approx 750 miles in mid February.

I found the man who will tow her via U-Ship. He seems very responsible and I trust he will do everything he needs to do to ensure a safe trip.
Obviously, it would be best if she could be transported, but I can't afford that route. So instead, the plan is to repack the bearings and change out the tires for the trip.

I've been nervous about the trip, but I do believe that I need to get her to me sooner rather than later, as it would break my heart to have her in the rain another year.

Unfortunately, I've just learned that the door has been blowing open in recent storms and the floor has become so spongy in spots that it doesn't seem safe to walk on.

Will this floor condition prevent the trailer from being towed safely??? I want the trip to be a safe one!! I don't believe the trailer is structurally unsound, so I'm inclined to proceed, but I want to hear from forum members who know better than I.

Thanks for your help!

[Minno]

Well, we towed ours home from Mississippi to Minnesota with spongy floors, a leaky door that didn't close well, and rear floor rotted out with relatively little problem. We bought gorilla tape and taped the door closed, checked it every time we stopped. (We always "walk the trailer" at every stop anyway). She towed like a dream even though 2 tires were old old car tires. That said, we were lucky. It's a little nerve racking to do. We also had to rig towing and running lights on the whole trailer since her lights didn't work (and brakes were so-so). When I think back on it, I still wonder how we did that. They are well-built trailers! We'd probably do it again. Good luck!

Kay

[Sum75]

Thanks for sharing, Kay! That makes me feel better. I know that care needs to be taken, and I know that towing can be dangerous for all kinds of reasons, but I so want my trailer home with me!

As long as the floor issue won't cause major stress on the frame (and it sounds like it won't), I'm satisfied. I want to be safe, but I want my trailer now!!!

Thanks for the gorilla tape tip, I was wondering how I would secure the door. I was thinking bungies, but I wasn't sure what to connect them to, and besides I wasn't loving the idea of them (or rope) rubbing. The tape will work so much better!

[Tmck]

The door opens in a " suicide" door style. The screen in the door does the same. If either were to come open, the wind caused by the towing speed would be a disaster!

[Tmck]

Maybe a better example

[Sum75]

Ughhh, now I'm more nervous! Maybe I need gorilla tape and bungi cords and some rope for good measure! The door used to stay latched, though the handle was a replacement.

[Wazbro]

Check this link for holding the door closed.

Make Your Own Suicide Door Security Latch

[Sum75]

Thanks, Wazbro! I'll have to make one or two of those, it seems easy enough and so worth it for the peace of mind!

[Tmck]

My Overlander does not have the handle to use the device on like the one in the illustration. Maybe the Ohio built 1957's do. Looks like a very good idea though.

[Sum75]

Come to think of it mine doesn't either... But there must be a way to modify it for what we have... The concept is a good one, using the handle to brace the door against the body. Well, actually if it requires a sound handle, maybe not... Well see! I'll try to come up with something, use that as a starting point.

[Someday'59]

I've been thinking about this spongy floor question.

How spongy is it? Particularly, how is the inside perimeter- as opposed to the center of the floor. A squishy floor in the center (maybe even a hole or two) would concern me less than a squishy perimeter.

The floor is structural in a trailer of this vintage. On our trailer, the elevator bolts were only attached to the frame, floor & shell in a few places.

As far as damaging the frame... If your floor is really spongy then my guess is you'll probably have to do some frame work on it, too. (Around 1/3 of our frame needed to be repaired/replaced but this wasn't entirely evident from the start. Our floor was only really bad in the back of the trailer but we had frame that needed replaced in other places as well.)

750 miles is a hike! I'd take it easy for sure. (Back roads and the like...) I think this is a hard decision.

I am also hoping some others will see this thread so you can get some more feedback.

[Sum75]

Hi, Someday

Thank you for your input. From what I've been told, I think it's just the area inside the door, vs the entire perimeter... But I haven't seen it.

During the 8 years I've had her, I've managed to make the trip to check on her perhaps 4 times, the last being I think about 2 years ago, and all was well. My last trip up I replaced the window gaskets all the way around and she seemed pretty weather tight. This door blowing open is a new problem, so hopefully the damage is limited.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Tmck

My Overlander does not have the handle to use the device on like the one in the illustration. Maybe the Ohio built 1957's do. Looks like a very good idea though.

Well, I was using a netbook with a small screen, using my desktop I can see that it's a chain hanging next to your door, looked like a handle before so I thought it would work since you have the same year/model trailer, oops.

At least it's something to think about.

[Wabbiteer]

If you're really lucky the belly skin will peel away and leave 55 years of mouse nests somewhere out on the highway... Just kidding, almost

Make sure your guy seals all the drains - sink basins, bath and toilet - before towing it, else the things forgotten below those points will get aerosolized into the interior. Another good use for the gnarly duct tape.

Later on having water in the traps may be enough but trust nothing until you've inspected it all.

[powool]

Tape the daylights out of the door. It is very painful to fix, and since you say the wind has been blowing it open, just think what 60mph down the highway will do. Heavy, wide, good quality duct tape onto dry metal will be best; also the door jamb ideas might work, but only in addition to, not instead of.

[powool]

I think the windows should be duct taped too. Better safe than sorry. A friend here had some if that expensive hard to replace glass fall out while he happened to he close enough to catch it.

[Sum75]

Hey, wabbitteer, too funny! Actually there is a gash in the belly skin on the street side-- it's maybe a foot long... So mouse nests really could end up on the freeway!

[Sum75]

Thank you, everyone for the great advice! Powool I am definitely going to tape that door. It will be easy enough to remove later, and is so worth the peace of mind. Speaking of that... Had some photos emailed to me earlier, and it's heartbreaking what rain can do to- the wheels have really rusted, so now I'm having heart palpitations imagining my frame! I wish I could blame this on a prior owner. I'm kicking myself hard right now.

[Tony S]

This is what I always put in my door just to be safe. It is a 3/4" plywood "F" cut out. It goes through the grab.


Tony
Rogue River Oregon

[Minno]

Our frame was rusted, 2 or 3 outriggers damaged, rear perimeter (bathroom) floor was actually totally gone, and bathroom floor was so spongy that you felt like you were going through it when you walked in there. We lost the rear part of the bellypan somewheres in road construction on the trip home (2ft section wide). Kept the rest of the mouse nests though. She still towed home just fine. We had no locks on our hatches so we gorilla taped everything. Stronger than duct tape. Door did latch but we taped it shut too and it kept all the rain we ran through out. Tape well! Oh, and did I mention that the axles were shot? My worry would be the door and I would spend some time on securing it however you can. Good luck!

Kay