Towing through the mountains

[Dan and Liz]

“Go down at about the same speed as you went up.” In my experience, the other side of the pass may or may not have comparable curves, so that’s not especially good advice. Better — pay attention to the road, the signs and the other traffic and if you must err — be on the safe side.

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by bhooves

My wife and I took RV towing lessons through the RV Driving School. Our instructor was Glyn Carson 614-558-6256 and 907-320-6013. He has been towing all types of tow vehicles from 18 wheelers on down and has written books on it. You go down the other side of the mountain at about the same speed that you went up it. Use the engine braking and turn off the cruise control before you start down the mountain. The cruise control will run up engine rpm and so will the engine braking. Pre-determine the maximum down hill engine rpm that you want to allow--maybe about 3500 rpm. I don't worry a wit about vehicles behind me as they chose to be on the road behind me at that point in time. I have a 2013 Ford Super Duty with the 6.7 Diesel and it has a setting for towing. Probably you truck does too. I find that while going downhill, the engine braking will try to keep my downhill speed at the speed that I apply the brakes. This leaves me to just monitor the rpm and tap the brakes from time to time. Great views can be glimpsed from time to time in the mountains, but be sure to watch the road. A diesel is great in the mountains. Enjoy your trip and don't be shy about Glyn, the ultimate teacher.

3500 rpm.....wow....I never run my ram with. 6.7over 1800.....my kw with a cat never over 1650....

[sbowman]

[QUOTE=bhooves;2086352] Pre-determine the maximum down hill engine rpm that you want to allow--maybe about 3500 rpm. I have a 2013 Ford Super Duty with the 6.7 Diesel and it has a setting for towing.

Not sure I am reading correctly and/or understand. Not owning a Ford and not knowing their Diesel, however 3500 rpm seems pretty high to me. Diesels typically run between 1200 to 2000 rpm up or down. Anyway our RAM as set up, works pretty much in this range w/o using the brakes.

Best regards and safe travels

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by sbowman

Was yours a LR RR P38A? LR's are a love hate relationship. We have 4, 1984 through 2011......

Best regards and safe travels

Virtually EVERYTHING warned about them here... we can verify!

After the third engine... I'm thru with the brand!

https://www.lro.com/reviews/land-rov...p38-4x4-review

[PKI]

OK, this is a good LR story. An engineer told me about his responsibility for inspecting a desert pipeline. He had a fleet of Land Rovers for transport, but they kept breaking down, were expensive to repair and ..... His solution was a fleet of VW bugs. The engines were rebuilt after ever trip. The reliability went up, the rebuild kits were not expensive and he turned his struggle into a success. Often wondered if the story was true, an urban legend, or the old guys having fun with the new kid. He looked honest telling the story. It sounds logical, right? Pat

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Anders79

(and the compression brake is the reason i will always stick with a Diesel).

Okay, but may I suggest the reason the truck manufacturers designed a solution was because a diesel has NO compression braking. Without the flapper in the exhaust pipe, going downhill would be like having it in neutral.
In a gas vehicle it's called "Taking your foot off the gas."

[jcl]

Originally Posted by sbowman

Was yours a LR RR P38A? LR's are a love hate relationship. We have 4, 1984 through 2011......

Best regards and safe travels

Mine was an L318 Discovery, 2000 model. It had the TD5 engine and a manual transmission (UK spec) It wouldn’t shift when cold, you couldn’t get past the syncros. The dealer said “they all do that”. When they changed the tax rules to charge by emissions it was cheaper to dump it, so I paid a fee to get out of the lease early.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by tjdonahoe

3500 rpm.....wow....I never run my ram with. 6.7over 1800.....my kw with a cat never over 1650....

This might be a figment from days of yore. For any modern engine, there's no need to arbitrarily limit yourself to a specific RPM. Unless you have a manual tranny and it is to the driver not to over-rev the motor. Any modern auto tranny will manage the gears as needed. Let her rev. More revs = more engine braking. If one needs more engine braking, downshift as necessary to get more braking.

Modern gassers with many many speed trannies should also easily be able to get just the braking. Oftentimes this may be revving the engine to 4-5k rpm, or more!

No need to worry. They are designed for it and will happily do the deed. Downshift as necessary! The tranny computer won't let you downshift in a manner that over-revs the motors.

[Ted S.]

Originally Posted by cbourland

My wife and I are traveling through Colorado and Utah this summer in our 2017 25 foot Fying Cloud. This is our first trip through the mountains pulling the trailer with our 2015 2500HD Chevy diesel. I need all the advice I can get as to how I should tow the trailer up and down the mountains. I do have an engine brake/towing package on my truck that I will use. I have never used the engine brake because living in Ohio/Mid West the only hills we have are overpass bridges.
I'm looking for any help. Even if it is what speed I should go up and down the mountains, running lights, etc.

Thanks Dave

If you have good instruments, I would go slow uphill and just watch the engine and tranny temps to make sure they are stabilized and not constantly climbing. Short steeps are not an issue, long climbs are the challenge.

Going downhill is the bigger challenge, keep the speed to where it is within the capacity of the engine brake, pump the brakes if it begins to run away from that. I try to keep my brakes and trailer brakes as a last resort, allowing the engine brakes to check the speed.

Take you time up and down the mountain and pull over if you need to. You will be fine, you have a great set up.

[rwsjms7]

Originally Posted by cbourland

My wife and I are traveling through Colorado and Utah this summer in our 2017 25 foot Fying Cloud. This is our first trip through the mountains pulling the trailer with our 2015 2500HD Chevy diesel. I need all the advice I can get as to how I should tow the trailer up and down the mountains. I do have an engine brake/towing package on my truck that I will use. I have never used the engine brake because living in Ohio/Mid West the only hills we have are overpass bridges.
I'm looking for any help. Even if it is what speed I should go up and down the mountains, running lights, etc.

Thanks Dave

Once in tow haul mode your engine brakes should automatically engage. At least that is how it is on my F250 diesel. I'm pretty certain yours would be like that too. But, check with your dealer or brake out the trusty manual and read up on it.

Have a safe trip.

[Skully93]

Just be careful of other idiot drivers (as always).

I love living in CO, but it's fairly packed these days and getting out and about is difficult.

Very scenic though! Some of my favorite motorcycle trips are through mountain roads.

[mhenehan]

Originally Posted by cbourland

My wife and I are traveling through Colorado and Utah this summer in our 2017 25 foot Fying Cloud. This is our first trip through the mountains pulling the trailer with our 2015 2500HD Chevy diesel. I need all the advice I can get as to how I should tow the trailer up and down the mountains. I do have an engine brake/towing package on my truck that I will use. I have never used the engine brake because living in Ohio/Mid West the only hills we have are overpass bridges.
I'm looking for any help. Even if it is what speed I should go up and down the mountains, running lights, etc.

Thanks Dave

I drove a tractor trailer over the road and up and down the mountains for years. Owned my own company and if a driver quit, the load still had to deliver, so off I'd go. Here's my advice. Go slow. Get in the truck lane and take your time. Put your flashers on and get used to your truck and trailer combo. I wouldn't use the automatic system, although you can. I prefer to take it out of tow mode and downshift myself. Then watch your rpm's and if they get too high pump your brakes, don't press and hold. That will heat them up. Keep your rpm's less than 4,000. I think the red line on that Duramax is around 5500-6000. I had one, but can't remember exactly. But, best to play it safe.

But don't worry, you have plenty of truck for that trailer. Enjoy our great state.