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Old 09-18-2017, 03:44 PM   #15
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
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Hi

As you have already figured out, you *could* put 500 pounds of gold bars in the rear bumper and have a significant impact on the tongue weight. That's probably not a good idea for a number of reasons, one of them being much worse sway. Bottom line is that this is just the way the weight and balance work out on this model. There are a *lot* of RV's that come out like this. You may need to do a bit of work on the receiver on your TV to get everything running with good safety margin.

Bob
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:32 PM   #16
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Dumping black and grey is a priority. Always.

890-lbs is car territory. It's roughly 350-lbs per TV axle (@ .78) with the balance leveraged to the TT axles via WD.

Setting the WD to 100% front axle Load restoration is the thing.

TW is not cargo capacity despite the fervency of believers. It is the static weight of that long lever end while at rest. One works with axle limits.

A WDH spreads the force at the hitch ball to the three different axles, not just one. It can handle the increasing and decreasing force at the ball much more efficiently (assuming its set correctly, which won't be found on a UTube video).

An ordinary Eaz-Lift or an integrated antisway Dual Cam are best choices for best set up among the cheap hitches. The superior VPP design hitches are in another class altogether.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:55 PM   #17
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A vote for taking it to the CAT scales. If you weigh it hitched and then just the TV unhitched you will have almost all you need. From that you will get the amount of weight added or subtracted from each axle of the TV. As SlowMover said, the amount of weight you add to the TV is a more important number than the tongue weight with the trailer sitting unhitched. You do either need to do the CAT scales or to measure the front fender height before and after hitching to determine how to adjust the hitch in terms of putting enough weight on the front axle. And some weight goes back to the trailer axle. I am really uncomfortable with the idea of reducing tongue weight by adding load to the trailer. ( I carry my gold bars in the truck bed). I would rather just live with the extra tongue weight.
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:28 AM   #18
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Not sure what the issue is... you may be overthinking it. We just finished a 1 month cross country trek with our 28 foot 2017 international serenity... using a good weight distribution hitch, and towing with half to full water tank for boondocking, we drove thru the mountains of Colorado and Utah with no sway whatsoever at speeds of 70+ mph. No problems.

Total trailer miles on this trip was around 3700 miles... and there was no issue. The only real difference between our rigs is my truck is a ram 2500. My trailer is on LT tires from Nokian, 235/75 R15...

What is your goal? A certain stability at a certain speed? Is your trucks suspension up to that task? F150 payload for your model?
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

As you have already figured out, you *could* put 500 pounds of gold bars in the rear bumper and have a significant impact on the tongue weight. That's probably not a good idea for a number of reasons, one of them being much worse sway. Bottom line is that this is just the way the weight and balance work out on this model. There are a *lot* of RV's that come out like this. You may need to do a bit of work on the receiver on your TV to get everything running with good safety margin.

Bob
1. I got started on this because I wanted to put our bikes on the tongue. But because this model already has 891 lbs on the tongue dry that wasn't going to work. Actually had a great set up. But when I weighed it out the tongue weight was about 1100lbs. Too heavy according to specs.
2. Then it got me thinking how do I load this RV so that I don't get too much weight on the tongue. I did NOT have a problem towing it. In fact when I had 1100lbs on the tongue it towed wonderfully. But decided I better not go that direction. Everyone assumes that I'm having a problem with towing. I'm not. It tows just fine. My F150 works great. I have plenty of payload and plenty of power. Maybe when I'm fully retired I'll get a diesel since I'll be pulling it more. But for now the F150 with 3.5 Ecoboost and Max Tow Haul works just fine.
3. All I wanted to know is were there any "tricks" to keep that tongue weight around 950lbs. I know that is when it tows the best. My WDH levels it out very nicely at about 6 to 7 links on the Blue Ox.
4. I bought a hitch weight scale. I thought it would be nice to know what causes the balance to change. And it was very helpful. I leveled it out and did some experimenting with my generators and some water jugs. I also found that when I drive with the black water or gray water tanks half full that I might need to add to the tongue weight. Those tanks are over the wheels and just a bit toward the back. And if we boonkdock and have to drive some distance to dump I wanted to beware of what that did to the weight distribution. And I also learned how the distributed weight affects the tongue weight.

It's a learning experience. And one poster says he has about 950lbs. And that's what I'm aiming for.

So in summary; My tow vehicle is just fine. My hitch is just fine. All I'm doing is figuring out the best way to level this thing out so that I have the best driving experience possible.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:13 AM   #20
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Three Pass Scale Method (the Ron Gratz chart I linked here about 2010). Dial in the hitch according to numbers.

With better info, easier to make decisions about where to carry bicycles.

1100-lbs at .78 means truck is carrying TW at about 429-lbs/Axle. This is an estimate based on FALR.

TW isn't a problem, is the point.

1) How the truck is loaded for camping (not just total weight, but per axle)

2) How the hitch is distributing TW

Need to be answered.

.
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
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Hensley Arrow. 9-cpm solo, 15-cpm towing
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
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Old 09-23-2017, 09:33 PM   #21
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Baileys Harbor , Wisconsin
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Bikes

Actually I have decided to put a front hitch on the Pickup, and put the bike rack there. It's the best place. The back of the RV has too many negative ramifications. The Airstream bike rack is tenuous at best and too many horror stories. On the tongue is unacceptable. Adds too much tongue weight. I have plenty of payload capacity so the front is the best spot. When I add up the weight of things we are going to be packing we'll have plenty of leeway. I have a payload of nearly 1850lbs. The tongue weight is about 950lbs the way I have it configured. So I have 900lbs to put in truck, and I'm not even close to the weight capacity on the AS. Bikes and rack: 170lbs. Wife and me, 310lbs. Dog 50lbs. And I have a few tools and a generator in the back (about 100lbs); light aluminum ladder, 2 light chairs, and a light grill (maybe 50lbs). It's just the two of us and we do short trips. So we aren't packing for months on the road.

So if I needed to I could put the generator and the grill in the AS which would lighten the payload on the truck.

We have a scale just up the road from where I live that does cement trucks. So before I leave I'm going to 1) Weigh the truck. 2) Weigh the AS. I have a hitch weight scale.

And one thing to remember is that the capacities that are set for these vehicles are capacities for constant use. As my engineer son who develops consumer products for a living says they make these capacities pretty conservative. It's not like if you go over a few pounds the wheels are going to come off.
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