Originally Posted by Redteddy76
We have a 1968 Airstream
Tradewind which weighs approximately 4,500 pounds. We have owned the trailer for 11 years and have always hauled it with a Chevy 1500
Suburban and a sway bar system. Our first suburban was a 2001 with the trailer package from the factory and this truck did a great job hauling the trailer with no issues. Two years ago we up dated our truck to a 2013 Suburban and have found this truck just does not work with our trailer. This truck is a 1500
also - but no factory trailer package so we had an air bag system installed. Still we have times that the trailer wants to fishtail really bad. We have experimented with additional air etc, but nothing seems to work. Are the newer Suburbans that much lighter weight? Do we need to go to a 2500? Does the factory trailer package make a difference? We just need some answers, before we put our truck up for sale to find a better option to keep us and our trailer safe.
Sorry to hear you are having such problems with your current TV and TT.
Since you did not have a problem with the same trailer and WD hitch with your older vehicle, I think you have to look to the 2013 Suburban to address your sway issue.
First, tires. What load range are they? Do you run with all four tires inflated to the pressure marked on the tire sidewall? You need sidewall stiffness in your tires to resist lateral movement (sway). My V2500 Suburban ordered with HD towing came with Load Range E tires--80 lbs psi rated.
Second, axles/suspension. What are the axle load ratings? Are you exceeding them? A low GVWR axle will be paired with a similarly low rated suspension--a package deal. Low axle/suspension rating may mean your rigs ability to resist lateral movement is inadequate for towing.
Third, torsion bars. A torsion bar, sometimes called a sway bar, is an additional suspension element that increases your vehicles resistance to body roll. My V2500 suburban came with a rear torsion bar.
Fourth, steering play. How precise is your steering? How much rotation of the steering wheel do you have to make before the vehicle starts to steer in the new direction? The more play, the more lateral motion can steer your vehicle before the driver can make a corrective response.
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I do not want to sound like I am detracting from the other posters here, but I am concerned that fine tuning the hitch isn't getting at the root of your problem. The thing to keep in mind is that the anti sway hitches are oscillation dampers--they use friction or increased tension to kill lateral movement. Very useful indeed, but reactive, rather than proactive answers to the TV/TT tendency to sway.
The Hensley and Pro Pride hitches do offer an advantage by effectively increasing the distance from pivot point to trailer axle. Good physics at work there which may be helpful in correcting your problem.
Do heed the sound advice given by the other posters regarding hitches and proper set up. But, as your original post suggests you already know, you need to start with the TV.