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Old 04-10-2012, 09:31 AM   #21
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Took a trip to the CAT scales

This is a great thread, providing much needed info for us newbies. My used AS did not come with instructions for setting up a WD hitch and the manufacturer (EAZ-Lift) does not post this info on their website. The RV dealer went with "well, that's close enough". Although the trailer tows well, I now realize some adjustments are needed.

I found this info on the internet and it appears to be pretty accurate.
How to Setup a Weight Distributing Hitch | eHow.com

My questions: 1) When I weigh my TV, shouldn't "empty/solo" include myself and my wife since she'll be in the vehicle 99% of the time?
2) Is there a rule of thumb for a starting point as to how many washers to use, or just insure there are not less than 6 links between the lift unit and and spring bars. 3) I've been concerned about tongue weight as the P/O installed a Honda generator on the A-frame behind the propane tanks. to accomplish this the A-frame was extended about 6 inches. The genset addition/modification probably added about 300 pounds to the total weight. Can I assume, with a properly adjusted W/D system, that this weight will have minimal impact on tongue weight?

Obviously, I'm heading to the CAT scales in the immediate future.

Bruce
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:14 AM   #22
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Bruce,

...just what I do, others may differ. I weigh the TV alone just as it will be used towing, full gas, DW, dog and camping supplies. I feel it's better to use loaded axle numbers.





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Old 04-10-2012, 12:02 PM   #23
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You want both tickets: Adjusted from the shipping weight

1] Normal solo (driver & fuel)
2] Loaded for towing/camping

The first is a constant. The second can vary considerably (and may need changing).
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #24
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What shipping weight?, I drove mine home.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:55 PM   #25
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Question: If the weight from TV rear axle needs to be moved to front axle the weight distribution bar tension has to be increased e.g. less chain loops.
Also is min. 5 chain loops is a must requirement or can they 4 loops
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:59 PM   #26
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Bob, a Yankee needs always be more concerned by dead weight when its' neck/shoulder supported.

Adjusted empty weight is part of hitch rigging -- solo/unladen -- inasmuch as tire pressure needs also be established.

Solo/unladen and Towing/laden are the two distinct operating parameters for the TV where an established tire pressure number is required.

Just as height adjustments for the WDH are a good start, so also is the vehicle manufacturers "range" of tire pressure numbers. A FF/RR bias to always respect, but within the range the ideal tire pressure number to be found for either of the above conditions.

The TV is unlikely to ever be heavier or lighter. So best tire numbers for handling & braking per test, just as with scale values for WD fine-tuning.

There can be a situation where the conditions have changed. We now know where to start on adjustments.


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Old 04-10-2012, 05:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zia View Post
Question: If the weight from TV rear axle needs to be moved to front axle the weight distribution bar tension has to be increased e.g. less chain loops.
Also is min. 5 chain loops is a must requirement or can they 4 loops
With a Reese full sway control hitch, 5 links under stress is the ideal.

However, 4 links works ok just as well, but at some point, the ball mount needs to be tilted a little more downward.

Andy
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:20 PM   #28
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Reducing the number of links increases the tension and transfers more weight. The minimum number of links depends on the manufacturers recomendation. On my Reese trunnion WD hitch, the minimum is 5 links. I believe this has to do with the movement of the bars when the trailer is in a sharp turn.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:55 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
Bob, a Yankee needs always be more concerned by dead weight when its' neck/shoulder supported.

Adjusted empty weight is part of hitch rigging -- solo/unladen -- inasmuch as tire pressure needs also be established.

Solo/unladen and Towing/laden are the two distinct operating parameters for the TV where an established tire pressure number is required.

Just as height adjustments for the WDH are a good start, so also is the vehicle manufacturers "range" of tire pressure numbers. A FF/RR bias to always respect, but within the range the ideal tire pressure number to be found for either of the above conditions.

The TV is unlikely to ever be heavier or lighter. So best tire numbers for handling & braking per test, just as with scale values for WD fine-tuning.

There can be a situation where the conditions have changed. We now know where to start on adjustments.


.
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Your verbosity rocks. KISS

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Old 04-11-2012, 08:39 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
With a Reese full sway control hitch, 5 links under stress is the ideal.

However, 4 links works ok just as well, but at some point, the ball mount needs to be tilted a little more downward.

Andy
So...am I counting links on my Reese ”up” from the trunion bar and does the link that goes thru the bar get included? I know, rookie question but, I'm a rookie so....
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:18 AM   #31
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All links under tension.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
With a Reese full sway control hitch, 5 links under stress is the ideal.

However, 4 links works ok just as well, but at some point, the ball mount needs to be tilted a little more downward.

Andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
All links under tension.
Dang....that would seem self evident, right? This being a rookie sure makes a person feel silly now and then.
Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:24 PM   #33
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"It" is not always obvious to me either; i.e., there's a reason some/most of us wound up on here.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
"It" is not always obvious to me either; i.e., there's a reason some/most of us wound up on here.
Yeah, and half the time it's "obvious" to me that means I've done it wrong.
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:29 AM   #35
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Yeah, and half the time it's "obvious" to me that means I've done it wrong.
The "right" TT and a nice TV cancel that out. Especially now that the best hitch is to be applied. Tires, same way. Etc.
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:14 AM   #36
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Thanks for the response, I will tilt the ball and reduce the links to 4 under tension.
After this adjustmustment I will take it to scale to see how the weight is distributed among the TV front and rear axle as well as the trailer
I do not what we will do without Andy.
May God bless you with good health and long life
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:27 PM   #37
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Totally get the headache thing. Here are my results. Any thoughts appreciated!

The trailer tows great, although the tail end of my TV seems to hang a little low when hooked up...
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:26 PM   #38
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Brad: your numbers look good. On my Hensley I move about 400# to the steer axle when everything is level. Looking forward to seeing you at the Canopener if not before. We may drive over to Falluminium since it's in the neighborhood but we have a rally at the Top of Georgia that we will be at. Hopefully next year the rally schedules won't conflict. Bandits.
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:36 PM   #39
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Brad. If you go to one of the weigh scales along the interstate there is no charge. Just follow the trucks in and when you get on the scales tell them you want a weigh ticket otherwise you will just get a green arrow indicating you are good to go. Also when you first pull off the interstate to go to the weigh station you may come to a green arrow and a red x. When I followed the green arrow I ended up back on the interstate and missed the weigh station. All the red x meant was that I was not required for come in for weighing not that I couldn't come in. I proceeded through the red arrow, slowly at first, and proceeded to the scales. They know what you are before the turn off to the scales so basically the red arrow just means that you are not required to come in and. E weighed. Bandits.
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:53 PM   #40
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Thanks Jerry - see you soon - somewhere!
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