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Old 04-09-2012, 09:13 AM   #15
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What is being pointed out is that the RA can be lightened too much by the application of leverage with a WDH.

One needs to be exact (thus why we want an "empty/solo" weight scale ticket to start with, not just published shipping weight and factory weight ratings) as no two vehicles are exactly alike. They will all plot somewhat differently along the [roughly] same line.

.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:55 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
What is being pointed out is that the RA can be lightened too much by the application of leverage with a WDH.

One needs to be exact (thus why we want an "empty/solo" weight scale ticket to start with, not just published shipping weight and factory weight ratings) as no two vehicles are exactly alike. They will all plot somewhat differently along the [roughly] same line.

.

Ahh, okay, well, the scales are 45 or so miles away so I'll get that weight when I can. For now this most recent trip has confirmed what I kind of suspected all along; that something wasn't right with the way everything was set-up.
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:28 PM   #17
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In the mean time if you have an Equalizer brand hitch, I would install all five washers to the hitch head, if you dont already have them. This will tilt the head back for more weight distribution. I had 4 on mine but it was lighter than yours. We have a 08 Tahoe with the air shocks like yours. Remember to adjust the hitch before you turn the car on otherwise the air shocks will inflate and you wont know what the weight distribution looks like when hooked up. Your set up should be level
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:04 PM   #18
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In the mean time if you have an Equalizer brand hitch, I would install all five washers to the hitch head, if you dont already have them. This will tilt the head back for more weight distribution. I had 4 on mine but it was lighter than yours. We have a 08 Tahoe with the air shocks like yours. Remember to adjust the hitch before you turn the car on otherwise the air shocks will inflate and you wont know what the weight distribution looks like when hooked up. Your set up should be level
That hitching procedure makes sense but I think that it's backwards from what the manual says, isn't it? Or maybe I read the manual wrong. Oh well.

Maybe I'll get a 3/4 ton and it won't matter (the autoride part, not the property w/d part).
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:06 PM   #19
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The ball should point down toward the trailer. jim
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:31 PM   #20
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Remember......the TV manual doesn't care if the trailer is level OR that enough weight is being transferred, only that their Burb don't squat.

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Old 04-10-2012, 10:31 AM   #21
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Took a trip to the CAT scales

This is a great thread, providing much needed info for us newbies. My used AS did not come with instructions for setting up a WD hitch and the manufacturer (EAZ-Lift) does not post this info on their website. The RV dealer went with "well, that's close enough". Although the trailer tows well, I now realize some adjustments are needed.

I found this info on the internet and it appears to be pretty accurate.
How to Setup a Weight Distributing Hitch | eHow.com

My questions: 1) When I weigh my TV, shouldn't "empty/solo" include myself and my wife since she'll be in the vehicle 99% of the time?
2) Is there a rule of thumb for a starting point as to how many washers to use, or just insure there are not less than 6 links between the lift unit and and spring bars. 3) I've been concerned about tongue weight as the P/O installed a Honda generator on the A-frame behind the propane tanks. to accomplish this the A-frame was extended about 6 inches. The genset addition/modification probably added about 300 pounds to the total weight. Can I assume, with a properly adjusted W/D system, that this weight will have minimal impact on tongue weight?

Obviously, I'm heading to the CAT scales in the immediate future.

Bruce
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:14 AM   #22
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Thumbs up

Bruce,

...just what I do, others may differ. I weigh the TV alone just as it will be used towing, full gas, DW, dog and camping supplies. I feel it's better to use loaded axle numbers.





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Old 04-10-2012, 01:02 PM   #23
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You want both tickets: Adjusted from the shipping weight

1] Normal solo (driver & fuel)
2] Loaded for towing/camping

The first is a constant. The second can vary considerably (and may need changing).
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:56 PM   #24
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What shipping weight?, I drove mine home.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:55 PM   #25
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Question: If the weight from TV rear axle needs to be moved to front axle the weight distribution bar tension has to be increased e.g. less chain loops.
Also is min. 5 chain loops is a must requirement or can they 4 loops
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:59 PM   #26
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Bob, a Yankee needs always be more concerned by dead weight when its' neck/shoulder supported.

Adjusted empty weight is part of hitch rigging -- solo/unladen -- inasmuch as tire pressure needs also be established.

Solo/unladen and Towing/laden are the two distinct operating parameters for the TV where an established tire pressure number is required.

Just as height adjustments for the WDH are a good start, so also is the vehicle manufacturers "range" of tire pressure numbers. A FF/RR bias to always respect, but within the range the ideal tire pressure number to be found for either of the above conditions.

The TV is unlikely to ever be heavier or lighter. So best tire numbers for handling & braking per test, just as with scale values for WD fine-tuning.

There can be a situation where the conditions have changed. We now know where to start on adjustments.


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Old 04-10-2012, 06:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zia View Post
Question: If the weight from TV rear axle needs to be moved to front axle the weight distribution bar tension has to be increased e.g. less chain loops.
Also is min. 5 chain loops is a must requirement or can they 4 loops
With a Reese full sway control hitch, 5 links under stress is the ideal.

However, 4 links works ok just as well, but at some point, the ball mount needs to be tilted a little more downward.

Andy
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:20 PM   #28
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Reducing the number of links increases the tension and transfers more weight. The minimum number of links depends on the manufacturers recomendation. On my Reese trunnion WD hitch, the minimum is 5 links. I believe this has to do with the movement of the bars when the trailer is in a sharp turn.
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