To weld or not to weld

[A W Warn]

When I towed with a 3/4 ton I inserted the adapter and installed the pin so that it was positioned properly. Then i caulked the perimeter with Lexel adhesive sealant. It stayed in place as long as I owned it. No rattles. No issues.
Next owner might need the larger hitch, so sealant could be cut with a knife.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Ours' is welded around the front receiver lip and has been "flopping" around,(not), for 15 Seasons.

SFSG.[emoji106]

And even if it did "flop loose", a person could just weld it again...

With it welded just on the face of the receiver, five minutes with an angle grinder could have the insert un welded and in your hand..

[AtomicNo13]

Foiled again said nipples....

[rideair]

The only way to do this is the right way.

1. Take TV to garage that carries full liability insurance
2. Remove the receiver from the TV
3. Take removed receiver to a Certified Engineer for complete set of drawings of changes that are needed to fit the 2" hitch into receiver
4. With plans in hand take receiver and plans to welding shop that carries full liability insurance and have work completed with document signed stating they accept full liability if anything goes wrong.
5. Take receiver back to Certified Engineer for full inspection and sign-off
6. After Engineer inspection, take back to auto repair location to be installed back on TV and have them sign a document taking full liability if anything goes wrong.

OR

You could just slide reducer in place, add four small tack-welds (one on each side) that can be removed with a small grinder if needed in the future and go.

[mkcurtiss]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

When I towed with a 3/4 ton I inserted the adapter and installed the pin so that it was positioned properly. Then i caulked the perimeter with Lexel adhesive sealant. It stayed in place as long as I owned it. No rattles. No issues.
Next owner might need the larger hitch, so sealant could be cut with a knife.

this is the smartest suggestion yet.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

When I towed with a 3/4 ton I inserted the adapter and installed the pin so that it was positioned properly. Then i caulked the perimeter with Lexel adhesive sealant. It stayed in place as long as I owned it. No rattles. No issues.
Next owner might need the larger hitch, so sealant could be cut with a knife.

This is like that story of the 18-wheeler stuck under a bridge and a kid comes along and suggests letting some air out of the tires!

Love it! Great solution!

[batman]

I'll 4th that. I like A W Warn's solution. I could change it in the field with my pocket knife.

[AMS09]

Had the same problem. Unable to find one, even from Ford parts dept. Ended up buying the flanged Reese sleeve and drilled 2 holes that line up with the receiver. Touched up with a little spray paint.

[NardEngineer]

I applied black Silicone caulk on all four sides of the reducer and installed it making sure to align the holes in the two parts. Allowed the caulk to set up and have not had a issue in three years of changing all the different hatches I use. At one point I needed to use the 2.5 hole size and I was able to remove the reducer. Weld it you want but the caulk works just fine.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Glueing may very well werk when you are 'dropping' on the ball, not so much when inserting and withdrawing the ppp shank.🤔

Bob
🇺🇸

[Al U. Minium]

Originally Posted by out of sight

It's low carbon steel. You're not going to weaken it by welding.

Everything is weakened by welding...the HAZ is always weaker than base metal.

[lsbrodsky]

I like the idea of using sealant, but then I asked myself "why do this at all?"
If I just caulk it in I will worry about the sealant failing and the sleeve falling out when I am somewhere without the hitch hooked up. Or maybe someone takes a pocket knife, cuts the sealant and takes the sleeve. I do not want to leave my locking hitch pin in all of the time either. I also do not have a 2.5 inch stinger because of the weight to move it around.
So, good discussion but, on balance, I think I will continue to leave my sleeve on the stinger. It is not hard to align the hitch pin.
Larry

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

I like the idea of using sealant, but then I asked myself "why do this at all?" <<<SNIP>>>

A couple of people I know have lost adapters when they were distracted while unhitching and later drove away with the adapter left loose in the hitch.

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by rideair

The only way to do this is the right way.

1. Take TV to garage that carries full liability insurance
2. Remove the receiver from the TV
3. Take removed receiver to a Certified Engineer for complete set of drawings of changes that are needed to fit the 2" hitch into receiver
4. With plans in hand take receiver and plans to welding shop that carries full liability insurance and have work completed with document signed stating they accept full liability if anything goes wrong.
5. Take receiver back to Certified Engineer for full inspection and sign-off
6. After Engineer inspection, take back to auto repair location to be installed back on TV and have them sign a document taking full liability if anything goes wrong.

OR

You could just slide reducer in place, add four small tack-welds (one on each side) that can be removed with a small grinder if needed in the future and go.

Paul, I did do all that then decided to weld in 2 pieces of 1/4 " angle iron. Perfect fit and I see no further use of having a 2 1/2" receiver hole. My personal Certified Ingineer approves.
Doug

[Wazbro]

You could glue the adapter to the receiver or to the hitch shank to keep it lined up for the pin.


Pro-Pride had at least 1 failure of a stinger from not properly heat treating it while welding.

[r carl]

Jb weld

[J. Morgan]

If a person can weld a little even, welding is a lot cheaper and easier than JB weld.......

[Al and Missy]

There is a size of box tubing, like the receiver is made from. I had a friend with lots of stock and serious welding equipment cut a slice and weld it onto the sleeve to make a seating flange. We then match drilled a new pin hole in the adapter.

If I had thought of it I would probably have taken the sealant approach. I did drive off after unhooking once and lost my first one. Now when I unhook I move the stinger to the trailer and pin the adapter in it. SFSG.

Al

[Cabinboy]

Originally Posted by Raminc

The receiver on my tv is larger than the hitch so I was given a sleeve to make up the size difference. Now trying to line up the hole in the sleeve to the hole in the receiver to get the pin in is such a pain in the arse. I've been thinking about welding the sleeve to the hitch but not sure that's a good idea. Can someone please advise?

Simply insert the pin in the hitch only, off the receiver. Then tack weld a few spots that would be easy to grind of if necessary.
Careful, all of this will only safely tow the rating of lowest rated element.

[absteen]

My last 3 250s had the higher class 5 towing hitch with the insert. I scribed, and then used a black marker to show how far it was to go in. Works just fine.
Andrew
2017 27' fb International Signature.
2017 F-250 4x4 Lariat Diesel Crew Cab