To weld or not to weld

[Thiss]

Do not weld. Even a spot or tack.

Do not use the sleeve for long. It will make our pin hole get wallowed out. You will also Bend the hitch pin and get it stuck.

Buy a new stinger that is the right size. 2 1/2 stingers are becoming very common.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Thiss

Do not weld. Even a spot or tack.



Do not use the sleeve for long. It will make our pin hole get wallowed out. You will also Bend the hitch pin and get it stuck.



Buy a new stinger that is the right size. 2 1/2 stingers are becoming very common.

I have the 2.5” ProPride stinger for my Chevy 2500 class V hitch. It’s not light - to say the least. I’m not sure how much the 2” stinger weighs but if it takes 10-15# out it’s quite possibly worth a different solution. I really loved the solution to caulk the reducer sleeve in the receiver. Seems so smart to me!!

[Safetyfirst]

So many great ideas! I simply slide the spacer sleeve over the shank and put the pin in. Then slide both pieces into the receiver as far as they'll go. Pull the pin and with one hand take some weight off the hitch and with the other hold the shank just aft of the spacer sleeve. It all slides in together and the holes line up perfectly. But this may be way too simple fo a lot of folks! LOL!

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by Raminc

The receiver on my tv is larger than the hitch so I was given a sleeve to make up the size difference. Now trying to line up the hole in the sleeve to the hole in the receiver to get the pin in is such a pain in the arse. I've been thinking about welding the sleeve to the hitch but not sure that's a good idea. Can someone please advise?

I tack welded mine around the lip. Line it up and keep the pin in while doing it.
I can always grind the welds should I need to remove it however the likelihood of me ever towing anything needing that size of shank is very remote.

[RVliving]

JB weld is your friend

[duckdave]

I had the same problem with the cheap replacement sleeve I got at YouHaul (or wherever). So I bought one from the GMC dealer and it fits perfect. Cost more, but worth the aggravation saved! Plus, I still have the cheap one in case the other one somehow “falls out”! Don’t ask me how that could happen???

[MSL]

Originally Posted by Raminc

The receiver on my tv is larger than the hitch so I was given a sleeve to make up the size difference. Now trying to line up the hole in the sleeve to the hole in the receiver to get the pin in is such a pain in the arse. I've been thinking about welding the sleeve to the hitch but not sure that's a good idea. Can someone please advise?

I'm a nubie on this site, and with an AS, but couldn't you insert the adapter sleeve to the correct position, insert the pin part way (so the pin tip is in the middle of the sleeve), then insert the hitch while pulling the pin out partially, but so the sleeve is still engaged, then push on the pin while fully inserting the hitch?

[Utahted]

Don’t weld ... It’s a crappy design. Go to Amazon and buy a 3” to 2” adapter. Problem solved.

[Ddobier]

This would allow you to easily remove it should it be needed

[rmatkovich]

Hello. You do not have to weld the the over size to the hitch. Put your pin in and mark on the other piece by the hitch and have a stop welded on and then when you put it in the over size it will line up with the hole and bingo you are set.
Jim

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by Ddobier

This would allow you to easily remove it should it be needed

In all my years of towing I never ran across a 2.5 ' shank.
Even my heavy duty Pintle hook came with a 2" shank.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Well, if you upgrade to a class V receiver, it will have a 2.5" hole.

Bob
🇺🇸

Reese V TowBeast receiver with a welded reducer.👍
FWIW...Receiver+ball mount='hitch' WD when needed.

[SteveSueMac]

I’ve talked about it a lot - I have a 2.5” shank for my ProPride. Heavy - but no slop in the receiver and no reducer sleeve needed.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I’ve talked about it a lot - I have a 2.5” shank for my ProPride. Heavy - but no slop in the receiver and no reducer sleeve needed.

The over size shank adds $ 2,000.00 to the price.

[Thiss]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I’ve talked about it a lot - I have a 2.5” shank for my ProPride. Heavy - but no slop in the receiver and no reducer sleeve needed.

Weight lifting keeps you young

The 2.5 shank is the best fix.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

The over size shank adds $ 2,000.00 to the price.

You’re right of course. I paid $4500 for my ProPride instead of $2500 because mine came with the 2.5” stinger.

Hoo boy. As Fraiser once asked in the Cheers bar, “What color is the sky in your world, Cliff?”

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Thiss

Weight lifting keeps you young



The 2.5 shank is the best fix.

Someone once told me I looked like a weightlifter and asked me if I lifted weights. I replied - yes, every time I stand up (ba DUM dum!). I’m here all week....[emoji3]

Yeah - it keeps me young while reminding me how old my back feels [emoji3]

It is a good fit though. I had read several threads about the pros and cons of the reducer sleeve and went with the larger stinger. Had I thought about the caulking solution then...... oh well. I think it’s also good advice. Lots of options!

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

The over size shank adds $ 2,000.00 to the price.

According to the PP website there should be ~$50 difference, with tax etc.

The entire 2.5" adjustable stinger assembly purchased separately is $325.
https://store.propridehitch.com/prop...-2-5-receiver/

The 2" is $285.
https://store.propridehitch.com/prop...ble-hitch-bar/

[Bompagene]

Just 4 drops to spot weld! Easy to remove, but holds tight.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by Thiss

Weight lifting keeps you young

The 2.5 shank is the best fix.

I lift my 80 lbs Generator for that .
Puny weight 2.5" shank wouldn't work for me. I would need one for each arm :-)..