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Old 01-14-2007, 07:22 PM   #29
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If you get past my locked door then you have a problem.
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:33 PM   #30
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:48 PM   #31
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[quote=SilverGate]
Quote:
Originally Posted by toastie
toastie:
"Just placed an order with Northernt Tool for the set, thanks very much for this post."
.................................................. .................................................. .
Caution:
I have not verified that the coupler lock in this set will actually fit on Airstream trailers, especially the newer ones.
Some outlets on web do not state the ball size in this kit…
I suspect that this lock is for 2" ball size rather than the 2 5/16th needed by many of us.

I would like to hear from anyone who does use Master Lock…
What model # works for you and what year and model is your Airstream?
SilverGate
\

Hi, My concern for the coupler lock is will it fit over or around the rolled lip on my trailer's coupler? As for the latch pin lock and the matching receiver lock, I don't recommend these from Master. I had these and only used them on my trip back from Oregon to Lakewood, Ca. When home and removeing the receiver / hitch lock I noticed the shaft on the Master lock was bent. And this was only on it's first one way trip home from the [Airstream] selling dealer. I later purchase a different lock set in which the receiver lock shaft was the right size and did not have the adapter sleeve. The lock set I bought for my coupler latch lock and and receiver lock says "Smith & Wesson" on it. I'm still looking for a good lock for the coupler ball,
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:04 PM   #32
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gunner...NOW THATS WHAT I"M TALKING ABOUT!

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Old 01-15-2007, 12:45 AM   #33
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English lock

My wife traveled England in a rented car a few years ago. We were amazed at how many parked trailers (caravans) had wheel boots. We stayed with my cousin in Cornwall and their 'caravan' was behind a locked gate.....and was also sporting a boot.
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:53 AM   #34
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[quote=ROBERTSUNRUS]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverGate
\

Hi, My concern for the coupler lock is will it fit over or around the rolled lip on my trailer's coupler? As for the latch pin lock and the matching receiver lock, I don't recommend these from Master. I had these and only used them on my trip back from Oregon to Lakewood, Ca. When home and removeing the receiver / hitch lock I noticed the shaft on the Master lock was bent. And this was only on it's first one way trip home from the [Airstream] selling dealer. I later purchase a different lock set in which the receiver lock shaft was the right size and did not have the adapter sleeve. The lock set I bought for my coupler latch lock and and receiver lock says "Smith & Wesson" on it. I'm still looking for a good lock for the coupler ball,
Robert

Thanks for your input, here is the product decription of the set that I bought, if it doesn't work, it will be going on ebay........thanks again


Product Description
From the Manufacturer
Keyed Alike Trailer Coupler lock, Barbell receiver lock (5/8" & 1/2") & coupler latch (7/8" width) locks

Product Description
This convenient lock set comes with three primary locks needed for trailer security, keyed alike and stored in a handy carrying case. Set includes a coupler lock for unattended trailers, a coupler latch lock to secure coupler onto ball while it's attached to vehicle, and a universal receiver lock to lock the draw bar in the receiver. This item will not fit a 2 5/16" tongue.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:00 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkelly
What are folks using for locks on Hensley Arrow hitches?
What I di is store my hitch bar secured in its place on the Hensley. Instead of one of the pins, I put a pad lock where one of the pins goes.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:13 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clancy_boy
It's a sad fact of life that there already exists a list and it is held by our "friends" at the ATF. Now all you will have to do is cross reference it with the DMV records of each state for Airstreas and bammm you have your list.
Heck, all they have to do is pull my FOID and come knocking at my door. Doubt it will ever happen in my lifetime, but it's possible.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thecatsandi
If you get past my locked door then you have a problem.

Though I agree with that statement, it's the last thing in the world I'd like to see happen. Besides the mess it would make in the Airstream (or in the house), the thought of having that live with me would be pretty hard....I don't even kill little house spiders...I trap them and put them outside.

That said, if someone were to do it and they met the basic criteria, were clearly going to harm or kill anyone inside, in most states, it would be justified....still hard to live with, but justified.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:01 AM   #37
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Silvergate,

On my '03 Safari, I've tried both the Gorilla (not enough clearance between the u-shaped clamp) and the Master #377 (pin does not pull out far enough to clear rolled lip of coupler). I use the Guardian G-35 and it works/fits nicely.

Marc
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:08 AM   #38
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The weak point in our Airstreams, when occupied, will always be the door. If the AS is in storage, or otherwise unoccupied, you might as well leave it unlocked. With respect to the door, the truth is that a well placed wrecking bar will probably pry it open in one quick move. My Florida condo had a main entry door that opened out like our Airstream doors - and it too was blessed with a cheap lock (---including a deadbolt) that a wrecking bar would laugh at! My answer was to install two 3/8" diameter stainless steel carriage bolts through the door, about 2' apart and level with each other, secured on the inside with eye loop nuts. I then fabricated a long bar that would reach across both door jambs and mounted two 3/8" hook bolts through the bar, matching the spacing of the eye loop nuts on the door. It was a simple matter at night to then simply hang the bar on the eye loops, where it rested against the door jambs. At that point it would take an axe or dynamite to get in! I believe a similar setup could be fabricated for the AS - notwithstanding the interference from the screen door - using one stainless steel bolt and hook in the vicinity of the locking mechanism and screen door access panel. Then, since we only have one bolt, the ends of the bar would have to be simply supported at the jambs. With this setup you'll have time to get out of bed, load your black powder pistol - or string your bow, give the perp ample warning, relax on the couch, and prepare yourself psychologically to pull the trigger!
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:03 AM   #39
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Yea, you could do that, but then, on the newer Airstreams with windows both the door and that good size picture window just front of the door, you can in fact break either and bypass most of what anyone would place in on or around the door....and you wouldn't need a pry bar for it either.
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:13 AM   #40
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Locking with a Hensley

Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
What I di is store my hitch bar secured in its place on the Hensley. Instead of one of the pins, I put a pad lock where one of the pins goes.

Moosetags---Thanks for the info on how you secure with a Hensley.
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:50 AM   #41
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We had been using the setup described in post #24 of this thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/167282-post24.html
.

Since adding the Enkay Rock Guard, the Gorilla cable now hooks thru the trailer A frame and then thru the tow vehicle end hole in the Hensley draw bar. This fills the Hensley so it canít easily be connected to someone elseís drawbar and captives our bar and the Enkay to the Hensley as well.
The Pit Bull wheel lock is also very convincing that this trailer doesnít move easily.

Since my wife and I were both raised in Jersey, we lock just about everything just about every moment.
My goal was to make the Airstream look tougher to steal than the ďPolice crime scene vanĒ.
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:57 PM   #42
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Talked to the Northern Tool folks and they say that lock set will work on Airstream 2 5/16" ball. I ordered one for my Argosy. Hope it is as good as it looks.
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