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Old 09-03-2018, 12:51 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by turk123 View Post
CO2 for the beer tap I'm installing on the side of the trailer.

Seriously, it is a water softener. One of the best purchases I've made for my trailer. This one will produce about 1000-1500 gal per charge. To charge you just add one cylindrical container of Morten salt.

Having soft water on the road is as luxurious as you can imagine. Lots of soft water means better tasting coffee, cleaner dishes, and lots of bubbles in the shower. It is also good for your water tanks and keeps the black tank working properly. Many people swear by adding water softener to the black tank.

https://www.flowpur.com/html/rv-pro10000.html
THX for the water softener link. Looked at the installation instructions, too!
Where do you mount it? Portable on ground or attached to something? My grandfather traveled through rural Alabama in a VW camper (he died in '65) selling and servicing water softeners to farms. He let us ride on the cargo carrier on the roof. He'd be in jail for that today, but here I am, better for the experience.
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:27 AM   #30
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THX for the water softener link. Looked at the installation instructions, too!
Where do you mount it? Portable on ground or attached to something? My grandfather traveled through rural Alabama in a VW camper (he died in '65) selling and servicing water softeners to farms. He let us ride on the cargo carrier on the roof. He'd be in jail for that today, but here I am, better for the experience.
I bought some short water hoses just set it on the ground. My setup is as follows: From campground water supply I have a regulator first, a "Y" adapter then goes into a water filter (with ground mount) and then the water softener and finally into the trailer. I bought a set of quick connects for every hose to make this process very easy.

The softener will fit sideways in one of your side compartments (another good reason to get twin beds. You have great outside compartments!! I have one compartment dedicated to all my water components.
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:02 AM   #31
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FYI threads/posts on water softeners: https://www.google.com/search?q=wate...com&gws_rd=ssl

. . . including this fairly recent one: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...er-150258.html
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:19 AM   #32
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I was recently looking at some pickups on the dealer lots as well as on the net.



It is amazing to me how some of the crew cab half tons will have about zero payload left if you load 4 beefy guys into it and have a fiberglass shell on the bed.


You can get some versions with some payload, but wow was I surprised.


I stuck to commuter vehicle for now with no towing needed but wanted to consider and look at the trucks.


Very very nice trucks and would love one for commuting and towing.


I know I will probably have to order something in to get what I want, few had the larger fuel tanks and just looking at the door stickers was a big education.
Hi

There are a *lot* of vehicles out there with really strange numbers for passenger weights. The auto building world really hasn't caught on to the fact that "real people" weight more than 125 pounds. It's not very hard around here to find 1500+ pounds of passengers to put in the crew cab of the truck ....

Bob
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:31 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by biere View Post
I was recently looking at some pickups on the dealer lots as well as on the net.



It is amazing to me how some of the crew cab half tons will have about zero payload left if you load 4 beefy guys into it and have a fiberglass shell on the bed.


You can get some versions with some payload, but wow was I surprised.


I stuck to commuter vehicle for now with no towing needed but wanted to consider and look at the trucks.


Very very nice trucks and would love one for commuting and towing.


I know I will probably have to order something in to get what I want, few had the larger fuel tanks and just looking at the door stickers was a big education.
What is always lost in the conversation choosing a TV for an Airtstreams is their heavy tongue weight of trailers 25' and above. Most reasonably well equipped half tons with crew cabs come with around 1,500 lbs payload leaving about 500 lbs for people and stuff and that is skimpy.
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:27 AM   #34
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Payload figuring can be very cornfusing, I use the CAT scale and load to our TV tire and axle ratings.

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Old 09-03-2018, 08:56 PM   #35
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I was chasing leftover new stuff on the lots. Wanted commuting vehicle.



Some of the crew cab pickups sort of seemed like you could take you and 3 fullsized friends and a few coolers of food and beer and what not or you could hook up your not really all that huge camper and drive yourself and the camper around.


Hard to do both at once.


In looking at minivans, what can I say if the price was right I would take one, they can have a cute tow package of 3500 lbs across a few brands. In doing some reading and looking and learning if you fill your minivan with your family and all the gear a family needs, the tongue weight of a 3500lb trailer may put you over your weight limit by a few hundred lbs.


Just you and the trailer, no problem. Tow that 3500 lbs and be within specs.


I got myself a commuter and will save up but will be very careful when I go tow vehicle shopping because similar looking trucks to the eye can have different numbers.


What they call max tow, I kinda consider required to get reasonable numbers on the vehicle.
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:53 PM   #36
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I bought some short water hoses just set it on the ground. My setup is as follows: From campground water supply I have a regulator first, a "Y" adapter then goes into a water filter (with ground mount) and then the water softener and finally into the trailer. I bought a set of quick connects for every hose to make this process very easy.

The softener will fit sideways in one of your side compartments (another good reason to get twin beds. You have great outside compartments!! I have one compartment dedicated to all my water components.
THX for the info.
Our trailer is a 27’ FC FBQ (so, missed the convenient storage locker).
I think I understand everything except the “y” connector. Hose from campground supply into pressure regulator; into “Y”. One line goes to H2O softener and into trailer.
What do you do with the other line from the “Y”?
Hope you have time to respond.
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Old 09-04-2018, 05:47 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by PC Conner View Post
THX for the info.
Our trailer is a 27’ FC FBQ (so, missed the convenient storage locker).
I think I understand everything except the “y” connector. Hose from campground supply into pressure regulator; into “Y”. One line goes to H2O softener and into trailer.
What do you do with the other line from the “Y”?
Hope you have time to respond.
pc
I put another hose on that line and use it for outside fresh water for cleaning, dog dish, and eventually for the black tank flush if I need it.
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:34 AM   #38
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I put another hose on that line and use it for outside fresh water for cleaning, dog dish, and eventually for the black tank flush if I need it.
Turk 123, just did a one person survey of my 40 year experience RN wife; she said, keep track of the closest hospital while traveling if you physically cross connect black water and fresh water hoses. I understand the difference in possible and probable, but growing up in nuclear submarines and now Airsteams, I can tell you, if you build it and "it" can happen, "it" will happen. The term, "nothing is Sailor proof" may apply here.
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:52 PM   #39
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The weight of all my stuff!

“Nothing is Sailor proof” always applies to any piece of hardware or software.
I spent the time in rate to earn that title. As a highly experienced sailor, there was nothing I or one of my shipmates could not break and we could subsequently fix in some manner. Still make a great living with all that I learned!
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Old 09-05-2018, 03:33 PM   #40
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Turk 123, just did a one person survey of my 40 year experience RN wife; she said, keep track of the closest hospital while traveling if you physically cross connect black water and fresh water hoses. I understand the difference in possible and probable, but growing up in nuclear submarines and now Airsteams, I can tell you, if you build it and "it" can happen, "it" will happen. The term, "nothing is Sailor proof" may apply here.
Hi

First off, no I'm not going to conduct the experiment

I'm not convinced that the black tank flush used once and then disconnected is going to kill you. I suspect an anti-back-flow valve would be a "really good idea' if you were going to leave it hooked up full time.

Bob
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Old 09-07-2018, 05:40 AM   #41
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I see your point, but at some point a black tank flush hose is gonna meet with the campgrounds water supply. I could buy a fresh hose every time I need to flush.

But I do see your point. I guess we all need to dip the campground spigot into clorox before using for this reason. I'm not being facetious as a previous camper (and in this case me) may have used a hose dedicated for black rinse. Maybe in this example, my Y actually protected against this problem.
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Old 09-07-2018, 05:50 AM   #42
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Yup, agree all. My routine is flush supply spigot, slather with hand sanitizer, flush, hook up potable hose. After using the black water flush hose, do same for my potable reconnect or the next guy. I might be wasting a lot of hand cleaner, but I'm following the "prescription" .
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