Hello Steel,
Thanks for the additional info and link to the Air Ride system. Question, do you feel the Class5 with the double donut airbag negated the benefits of the system?
Most all of us use a WD system and don't have access to the mod you have made to your system.
I'm a little confused. I've read this thread and the long thread TomW linked to and would like more info. We have lost rivets on the inside of the CCD. I think above the door frame more then once but there were also back and middle locations. We thought it was related to poor manufacturing quality now I'm wondering. We're gettting a Hensley with the new Safari and I'd like to hear more about their effect. So far ride and handling in the 2500 HD has been excellent but mabe not for the trailer. I'll be looking at my Reese bars tonight.
Thanks,
KL
__________________ 4CU Charter Member
2004 Silverado 2500 HD D/A
Honda EU2000i
Hensley Arrow
KE7DUI
In theory... I suspect that a harsh riding tow vehicle will shake the trailer pretty badly, even though most of the mass of the trailer rests on the trailer tires. It's like pounding on the end of a see-saw... although the weight is supported by the fulcrum, you can still induce a big dose of the shakes.
In practice... just have someone drive while you sit in the trailer for a few miles on roads you are concerned about. You will find out if there is a problem.
Michael,
I don't think it totally negated the benefits of the hitch, however, since the bars are made to out weight on the front, the double bag is definitely way too heavy for the light tonguw weight a WD hitch provides. By going to the light weight bag, I out the principle back into the light tongue weight.
I still maintain that a 2500 or 3500 truck rides much stiffer than any of us really want, so no hitch will ever take that out. It must be removed with the suspension of the truck itself.
__________________
steelbird312
2000 390 Landyacht XL
1989 29' Excella
WBCCI #6673 jerry Hodge
Have no intention of arriving at the grave safely, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand,throttle in the other, totally worn out and screaming
"WOO HOO, WHAT A RIDE!"
I've been seriously considering a switch to 2500 rear end springs versus my current 3500, or 1-ton, springs. This is not a real expensive switch - probably under $300 using all new OEM 2500 spring sets (---and the switch is reversible) - but I've hesitated, wondering if the change would really be worthwhile - or if there was another solution. I love the stability of the dually, but I would equally love to soften the ride - both when towing and when running solo! Never mind why I'm towing with a 3500 dually - the story is too long and boring! Has anyone made this switch - or am I the Lone Ranger? I know that, in general, everyone wants to "boost" the capacity of their rig by adding air bags, spring-loaded shocks, and the like - so attempting to "de-rate" the rigs capabilities is like putting a governor on a Corvette or '55 Chevy! I've read the info on the air-ride suspension offered by Camping World - but the base cost of $2,100 for the equipment alone, plus installation (???), puts it in a different league. I absolutely love the truck and I drool everytime I hook up to the Airstream for a trip! At the same time, my wife doesn't hesitate to tell me that she prefers the old '95 Chevy Silverado PU to the '03 GMC 3500 crew cab long bed 4x4 dually with the Duramax and Allison plus XM radio and leather interior! I'd appreciate any and all comments, as you may be able to help save this marriage! One other thing my wife points out is that the passenger seat on the dually doesn't recline as far as that of the '95 PU - although that doesn't have a damn thing to do with the ride or towing performance!
this is a pretty simple install (replaces the rear leaf spring brackets/hangers) and only 600$ or so. i've riden in a truck with this and the difference is significant.
the system isn't perfect but it does soften things and reduces the high frequency vibrations that give us the harsh feeling on the road.....it is not a torsen system where the rubber is under compression only but compression/sheer....so i guess these fatique sooner than a torsen axle... but there is not air pressure to mess with like on a bag system..
i may have mine done once it's out of warranty.
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
I appreciate the input from everyone and intend to explore some of the threads referred to in the varioius replies. For now, I was able to determine that I have 1,000 lb bars on my Towing Alternatives weight distribution hitch mounted on my '99 F250 SD 4X4. Towing Alternatives offers bars with 600, 800 & 1,000 lb ratings. Given that my tongue weight is in the 500 - 600 lb range I'm thinking of switching down to the 600 lb rated bars. I also may try lowering air pressure in my BF Goodrich All Terrain tires (28575R16) when I head off the pavement in eastern Oregon. The tire dealer reccomends I run 60 - 65 lbs on pavements and I could drop into the 40's if off pavement but absolutely no lower than 40 lbs. I'll first see if a change in the bars improves things and then, if needed, the tire pressure. I want to explore these options first before messing with the suspension on the truck.
I read about this in the latest issue of Four Wheeler (July?). They stated that it was a DIY for less then $200 (Chevy/GM 2500). And that if you just ran it at 20 lbs PSI it smoothed out the stiff ride of the 2500 HD. Check it out at Ride Rite. I'm seriously thining about trying it.
-Ken
__________________ 4CU Charter Member
2004 Silverado 2500 HD D/A
Honda EU2000i
Hensley Arrow
KE7DUI
Hello cracker ,
You know you have just too much truck there period.
and TGK the bars are too stiff ,exaggerates the roughness exerted on the trailer ,no way around it ,do go to the 600# bars ,and when proprly hitched the bars should have some upward curvature to them , abeit not too drastic though .That allows some normal flex to occur in the WD setup ,while not hammering the trailer to death .Remember these trucks you guys have are happy pulling a 10,000 # car trailer all day long.
Cracker,
I have a similar dually rig and pull a 31 footer using a Reese and the 26 footer with just the ball. I adjust the tire air pressure in the truck to meet the load requirements and it takes some of the stiffness out of the truck. Pressure in the trailers are also adjusted to the tire manufacturer's load ratings. It helps. I still lost some rivets in a 6000 mile trip thru Nova Scotia with the 31 footer with the rear bath. Rough roads and construction take their toll. From an engineering perspective, the longer the overhang and the stiffer the truck, it would seem to magnify the problem at the front and rear of the trailer due to the movement of the truck in response to the unevenness of the road and the lack of soaking up the bumps due to the stiffness of the truck suspension. I have not noticed any problems with the 26 footer but I have not traveled as much on rough roads with it.
I'm a newbie to both towing and my F-250, but my question is would adding a couple of hundred pounds of camping equipment to the bed of the truck dampen the ride some? It seems it would slightly compress the springs enough to soften them a little.
don't know if just a few hundred lbs helps.....
i'm carrying a kilo or more and it does change the truck's ride a little....
but not as much as changing tire pressures when towing or unhitched.....
the issue 2 me is road harshness (high frequency/low amplitute) vibration
versus big bumps/dips (low frequency/high amplitute) and which is the greater impact on trailer integrity over time......
or is it really balanced running gear
with properly inflated tires...on the trailer.
the mor/ryde rear leaf modification WILL reduce road harshness
without affecting big hole protection....
so i'm likely to add it next year to my superduty......
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
I've been seriously considering a switch to 2500 rear end springs versus my current 3500, or 1-ton, springs. This is not a real expensive switch - probably under $300 using all new OEM 2500 spring sets (---and the switch is reversible) - but I've hesitated, wondering if the change would really be worthwhile - or if there was another solution. I love the stability of the dually, but I would equally love to soften the ride - both when towing and when running solo! Never mind why I'm towing with a 3500 dually - the story is too long and boring! Has anyone made this switch - or am I the Lone Ranger? I know that, in general, everyone wants to "boost" the capacity of their rig by adding air bags, spring-loaded shocks, and the like - so attempting to "de-rate" the rigs capabilities is like putting a governor on a Corvette or '55 Chevy! I've read the info on the air-ride suspension offered by Camping World - but the base cost of $2,100 for the equipment alone, plus installation (???), puts it in a different league. I absolutely love the truck and I drool everytime I hook up to the Airstream for a trip! At the same time, my wife doesn't hesitate to tell me that she prefers the old '95 Chevy Silverado PU to the '03 GMC 3500 crew cab long bed 4x4 dually with the Duramax and Allison plus XM radio and leather interior! I'd appreciate any and all comments, as you may be able to help save this marriage! One other thing my wife points out is that the passenger seat on the dually doesn't recline as far as that of the '95 PU - although that doesn't have a damn thing to do with the ride or towing performance!
Cracker , you are not the Lone Ranger . Check out www.deiselplace , do a search and you will find much discussion on this very topic . Also , if you haven't changed out your OEM shocks , you should . Going to the Bilsteins in my 2500HD made a world of difference .
I'm waiting for delivery of an easyrider hitch (www.easyriderhitch.com .) The class V seemed like the way to go, but after reading this thread I'm wondering if I should have went for IV.
Those of you who are considering adding air helper springs should think long add hard about adding more load carrying capacity to a vehicle which appears to have too much already. An air spring at the hich point should make the ride smoother not stiffer.
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