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GooseMobile · 12-31-2017, 08:08 AM

Howdy!

Been haulin our 30 footer around the country for a year and a half and have gotten her parked in some pretty tricky spots without too much fuss.

Now, we're gonna slow down for a minute and park her at a house we're renting for the year. It's in the city and it'll be her tightest fit yet. I'll tell ya, some of the boondocking spots we got to were a heck of a lot easier than towing through town.

The road to get to the house is fairly flat but the house is up a small hill. The driveway is short but very steep for about 15 feet before it levels out to flat driveway.

I'm worried the pitch of the driveway is too steep and I'll bottom out before the back wheels hit the incline. There's about 9 feet from the bottom of the trailer rear to the back tire. I've been working through ways to get around it but nothing makes me feel very confident. I definitely bottomed out at sketchy gas stations and campgrounds in the past.

I've thought up makeshift ramps, but they'd need to be pretty long and extremely sturdy. My AS is a heavy one. It has a slide out and weighs close to 10k. I've thought about inching along with multiple sets on lynx levelers but that seems annoying as all get out and not a sure thing.

The TV is up for the job I think. 6.7L F250 and has 4-Low. It hauled us over and out on Teton Pass without much complaining. It's also worth mentioning I have a ProPride hitch and it rides a little low. I've scraped at that junction several times as well.

Just hoping someone can suggest a foolproof approach, definitely hoping to get this trailer in and out a few times this year.

mikeinca · 12-31-2017, 11:24 AM

Short of re-contouring the driveway, something you clearly don't want to do with a rental property, I think you've already considered the two most reasonable alternatives for getting your trailer up the slope. I had a very similar problem at our house with a 25' FC.

The first time I brought it home we used Lynx levelers which worked but, as you suspect, it was a royal PITA. After that I built ramps out of 2x12's supported by 2x12's crosswise underneath, 24" wide by 8' long. I made each ramp in two sections so they would be more manageable. They filled in the approximately 4" deep "swale" in my driveway and allowed me to get the trailer up to the house without scraping. They handled the load of my AS without visible strain but as you point out your trailer is heavier and you might have a deeper dip to bridge. Still, I think you could mitigate that by building up the 2x12 supports underneath the ramps. They will be heavy, however; I estimate the 4' long sections that make up each of my ramps to weigh about 65 lbs each and more support would mean more weight.

Wish I had other suggestions to make. I thought about solutions to this problem for quite a while and that is what I came up with. Ultimately, because we traded in the 25 footer for a 30' Classic, I bit the bullet and had the driveway redone. No more problems. Good luck with your situation.

Adventure.AS · 12-31-2017, 11:56 AM

On my rig if I remove the Eaz-Lift WD bars then the TV rear sags, thus nose of the TT will go down and the rear end of the TT will rise several inches.

**GCinSC2** · 12-31-2017, 12:25 PM

Any chance for a few pic's of the approach etc?

Mollysdad · 12-31-2017, 12:31 PM

Front mounted hitch so you can push the trailer up the incline?
If the ball is low you'll have more clearance at the rear bumper.
The ProPride hitch might have to come off for the parking.

Bill M. · 12-31-2017, 01:02 PM

Of course take loose the wd bars and just back it um on the ball. My approach would be to drop some appropriate length 2x10 or 2x12 in the deep part of the dip and just let them bend down to the ground when I backed on them. No need for a ramp. You just need to elevate the rear wheels some. Several layers of 2x should help. Look at where the wheels will be when the back hits and work it out from there. And think about the fact that you will need to get it back out eventually so make a little sketch of what worked and keep the lumber

cwf · 12-31-2017, 01:14 PM

piling up 2x4 in the low part of the driveway will help.. keeping the trailer bow as low as possible... run the BAL jacks all the way down then when trailer wheels are starting to climb out of the ravine, adjust the BAL jacks up so they don't scrape the ground...

We needed a 10' transition across our driveway entrance.. over 12" drop at center. Built 2x4 ramps. Side by side, construction glue between each and 'thru' bolted with 'all thread'... let is dry for a few days... make it half again as wide as you need. Cut angles on both ends to fit the 'slope' and help tires climb up on the ramp.

Oh.. turn off the trailer brakes will ya?

Get a spotter with a walkie talkie to tell you when the frame is about to drag...

you can toss a couple 2x4 on top of the ramp if you need just a LIIIIITttle more clearance on the trailer stern...

**GCinSC2** · 12-31-2017, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwf

piling up 2x4 in the low part of the driveway will help.. keeping the trailer bow as low as possible... run the BAL jacks all the way down then when trailer wheels are starting to climb out of the ravine, adjust the BAL jacks up so they don't scrape the ground...

We needed a 10' transition across our driveway entrance.. over 12" drop at center. Built 2x4 ramps. Side by side, construction glue between each and 'thru' bolted with 'all thread'... let is dry for a few days... make it half again as wide as you need. Cut angles on both ends to fit the 'slope' and help tires climb up on the ramp.

Oh.. turn off the trailer brakes will ya?

Get a spotter with a walkie talkie to tell you when the frame is about to drag...

you can toss a couple 2x4 on top of the ramp if you need just a LIIIIITttle more clearance on the trailer stern...

That smells a bit like been there done that info. Fill in the valley's.

cwf · 12-31-2017, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

That smells a bit like been there done that info. Fill in the valley's.

Yessirree... I have pics but do not have authority to post here... so, ping if anyone wants the visual. It is freaky.

tbashin · 01-01-2018, 10:58 AM

I put a lift kit on my 31'. With the new axles I've raised it 8 1/2". Stopped my tail dragging on inclines.

OttawaValleyGuy · 01-01-2018, 11:04 AM

Put a pair of swivel casters on the back frame section. I

cwf · 01-01-2018, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OttawaValleyGuy

Put a pair of swivel casters on the back frame section. I

Great Idea... but will damage your AS shell if you hit too hard...or too heavy..

Plenty of 'oops' around the website to see that. If you 'lift' the rear of the AS at the end like that, it pushes up on the shell. This MAY buckle the aluminum and MAY pop rivets where the aluminum is connected to the C-channel.

It's your baby... no one's going to turn you in to AS protection services...

you will see the problem soon enough.

rmkrum · 01-01-2018, 11:55 AM

No, in my experience dragging the skid on one side is guaranteed to put a nice wrinkle in the skin on the corner....I was lucky and did not pop rivets or open the seams. Note to self: stay closer to the middle of the driveway at son’s house...

dznf0g · 01-01-2018, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

No, in my experience dragging the skid on one side is guaranteed to put a nice wrinkle in the skin on the corner....I was lucky and did not pop rivets or open the seams. Note to self: stay closer to the middle of the driveway at son’s house...

Not guaranteed, but a risk. I have dragged one side several times, but when I make contact with the skid plate, I get out and look. If the wheels are in the trough , I continue. If not, i back out and find a new angle or abort the access. No wrinkling skins, but did pop one rear access door frame rivet.

eldin · 01-01-2018, 05:35 PM

contact a towing company ,have them place the AS on it and take it up the driveway.

eldin · 01-01-2018, 05:43 PM

steep pitch ,long driveway,reverse. contact an auto towing company with one of those lowboys. load your

as on it and when you get it to the top unload it.

GooseMobile · 01-01-2018, 06:25 PM

Wow! This blew up. I'm feeling very encouraged reading through the responses.

Gotta vet some of these ideas tomorrow. I'll take a few photos and post them here for you to see.

awkirch · 01-01-2018, 06:35 PM

I use my John Deere compact tractor to move our AS all around our property. If you can borrow a tractor, you can buy a 3-point trailer hitch attachment at Tractor Supply for about 100 bucks. You can raise and lower the nose of the trailer as your angle of approach changes on the slope.

guskmg · 01-01-2018, 07:08 PM

Whoa! If your skid hits the ground when backing up, you are going to buckle which ever corner quarter panel you hit unless you are at a complete stop. Worse! You can get yourself in a position where you can not backup. I had a case where I could not do neither. And, there you are. Stuck! Fortunately, in my case with much maneuvering I was able to inch my way into a small apartment driveway and on into a parking lot and turn around over the lawn to get out. What a sweat that was. On asphalt it is easier to dig the skid in than on concrete. But, nearly just as possible. Skid wheels my not prevent damage, especially on long heavy trailers with slides. Be careful, rises in black asphalt are hard to see in the mirrors.
guskmg

dznf0g · 01-01-2018, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guskmg

Whoa! If your skid hits the ground when backing up, you are going to buckle which ever corner quarter panel you hit unless you are at a complete stop. Worse! You can get yourself in a position where you can not backup. I had a case where I could not do neither. And, there you are. Stuck! Fortunately, in my case with much maneuvering I was able to inch my way into a small apartment driveway and on into a parking lot and turn around over the lawn to get out. What a sweat that was. On asphalt it is easier to dig the skid in than on concrete. But, nearly just as possible. Skid wheels my not prevent damage, especially on long heavy trailers with slides. Be careful, rises in black asphalt are hard to see in the mirrors.
guskmg

Not sure if you're "whoa-ing" my post, but if you are, you're missing something. I can feel when there is first contact...before placing a lot of weight on the skid. It is angled and, unless it is broken, uneven concrete, you can back out of it. Also, one should plan their approach so as to cross at as much diagonally as possible. It is rare that I drag at all, as I learned what to even approach...A skill learned in my off roading, 4 wheeling days. No different than reading ones front and rear overhang capabilities.